Ezrider

dang that guy is lucky to have walked away with only minor injurys

well i found myself with a simple math question today

new legs cheapest place $975 highest $1200

2 pieces of 3/8 wall 6x3 3/8th wall tubing $175

cool truck, sounds like you got a good deal on it, hope you enjoy it.

looks like fw-35 don't know if i need any of the other numbers but i got pictures of them if i need them going to check on new legs tomorrow

no i dont have anything to block my 5th. on the belly dump the 5th pivot front to back and the kingpin side on the trailer pivots side to side. never had a issue without having blocks. on the side dump there is no pivot on the trailer side the trailer frame stays flat other than some weight transfer to the side can flex things a bit but the tub tips to the side and the clearance between what would normally be the top corner of the trailer and the drive tires can be a bit of a issue when you have to turn while dumping or dump at a angle.

im not sure exactly what i got for a 5th wheel setup so if someone can identify it for me i do plan to look into taller legs first.

WHAT THE F***

it left the factory with low pro 24 tires

somehow i mixed up Thursday and Tuesday. well i guess it still works...lol

here are a couple i took a few years ago, me and that truck had been hauling out that road all day, and it was nasty, very slick wet clay dirt road. with about a 20% grade, he lost it coming down the grade loaded.

i need to put a tape measure to it to figure out exactly how much to come up. somewhere between 2-5 inches. my problem is with the low 5th wheel and 11'r 24's on the truck then my belly dump has a pivot on the 5th wheel to help keep even ground pressure on your drives in uneven terrain the trailer fenders can touch the tires. then on my side dump if you have the bucket tipped all the way over you can hit the drives as well plus i want to put full fenders on the truck so as it will be impossible to do that as you will ether hit the fenders with the trailers or hit the fenders with the tires and tear them up. so i need both adequate clearance for tire travel plus adequate clearance from the top ass well.

i found a old post on ttr where someone had these risers 1/2" plate top and bottom 4 inch tube but didn't say what the wall thickness was on the tube. i think i might like this idea a bit better than mine as you would still use short bolts and would probably be less likely to sheer the bolts.

im not opposed to half inch wall as long as its available, i have bought 1/4 wall in a similar size tubing for another project so i know that is available. 1/2 would take more time on the drill press and more drill bits than 1/4. i haven't measured it but it seems like the factory L bracket is 1/4 or 3/8 so i think 1/2 would probably be overkill.

as far as replacing the legs it looks like id have to replace the whole slider to get taller legs.

just in case anyone is having trouble with my discription

i need a tall 5th. my 5th wheel slider is the style with a L bracket mounted to the fame and then the 5th wheel slider bolts to that flat with the top flange of the frame. i was thinking of buying some 1/4 wall rectangular tubing drilling out the bolt holes to match the slider and bolting it in under the slider. any reason not to do this? i would probably box the ends as well to keep the dirt out of the tubing. i could also drill out the holes bigger and weld in 5/8's ID round tubing in the bolt holes to make it stronger yet but i don't think that would be necessary.

the earlier cars had the 4 round headlight the "facelift" cars had the single headlights or "euro" style headlights as they call them here. i think the single headlights fit the lines of the car better. the 4 headlights were only installed on us cars to meet a us requirement at the time. the single headlights will fit into the earlier cars and the 4 headlights will bolt right into the later cars.

got to spend a little time on it today front clip is wet sanded and buffed out, the hood was a serious pain in the butt, with all the curves and edges.

very nice

i hate to live by a dandelion farm...lol

im guessing the motor ran away before it went boom.

i have a rod sitting on one of my shelves out of a car engine that i blew, i picked the rod up off the ground. it was a lot more mangled than that one though.

started cutting a buffing, only got one panel done so far and its only buffed with a cutting compound but here is a before and after of that

before

after

the car is most the way back together now

yeah my xjs is a early facelift car, after the tail light and interior changes but before the body colored front and rear bumpers. in the us i think the xjs is a highly under valued car at current. i only paid $2250 for mine granted with some bad paint work and some other minor issues but very solid car. bought it and drove it 2100 miles home. super nice super low millage cars sell 10k with some exceptions +/- and they were a low production car they were made 1975-1996 aprox 120k cars made in that time with about 31k convertibles produced 80k coups and roughly 5k cabriolets ford cranks out more mustangs in a year than jag did for the entire production run of the car. I feel the value of them will go up over time but i have mine because i like it less so than the value of it.

carlot, 300 would have been my next guess looks like the second one has a little rot in the rear 1/4 but both cars look very restorable.

they look like they could make some real nice cars done up, what are they? Chrysler imperials? newports?

looks like a old factory photo, very nice

my mack is a cx613 e7 460 with a Eaton fuller 13 and 3:70 rears i pull belly and side dumps with it and on 7 axles 96k gross. it does pretty good. its no 6 1/4 cat but its pretty easy on fuel and pulls decent, im pretty happy with it. my other truck with 350 hp didn't pull as well at 88k as this one does at 96k the 13 has a much lower 1st than the road ranger 9 in my other truck witch helps a lot as well. lockers are a big plus heavier rears are a big plus i don't see a need for double frames though for dump trailer work.

if the question is will the truck get the job done, yes. if the question is should that be the truck you get, its not the specs i would buy for that work