Ezrider

if it was the break switch jake should still work but not the cruse id be looking at the clutch pedal switch first try lifting up on the pedal with the top of you're foot if then check the switch adjustment and if all that fails check the switch itself with a multimeater.

i don't see why you coulden't t- into the existing lines, iv thought of doing the same, my mack and my other truck both only have maxi's on one drive axle and sometimes on a steep hill it wont hold it. in the occasional times a year i have to park on a steep incline i normally just end up popping the trailer breaks as well.

nice work. a heavier steer axle wont hurt anything

did a bunch of busting tires today. I had 8 11r24.5's on steel rims that i wanted to run on this truck but this truck has alum inner and outer rims so i didn't want to put the steel rims on it. so i broke down 16 tires and re-mounted 8. after i did that i went and cat scaled the tractor. after adding the pusher and tall rubber, with me and all my junk inside and 1/2 tanks of fuel. the tractor came in at 19,300. so i added just shy of 2000 lbs to the truck about 1,800lbs +/- some difference in fuel weight. don't remember how much fuel i had on when i last scaled this truck bobtail. all in all i don't think 20k for a tri axle truck with a wet kit is too bad.

i rent this shop. it was the only one that i could find that would work for me had plenty of outdoor parking water floor drains heat insulation 110-220 power that only cost a arm rather than a arm and a leg. they were still building it back when i agreed to rent it. i had the opportunity to have them set it up how i wanted the biggest problem is i told them i wanted a bathroom. well i didn't know they were going to biuld a massive bathroom bigger than the master bath in my house on the same side of the shop as a roll up door. all i wanted was a bathroom the size of a closet with a toilet and a sink. so now is a serious pain in the butt to get a trailer inside in a way that i can unhook the truck and then be able to close the door.

yes small and warm is much better than outside and cold...lol i would even take inside and cold over outside and cold. i did the no shop thing for several years doing all my repairs outside in the elements. rain snow sleet ect. some day i plan to build a nice shop with pull threw bays large enough to park a few trucks and trailers inside at the same time probably a small area the size of a 4 car garage for project cars. it wont be any time soon but a guy can dream right.

yes quite cold out sub 0 F most the day today. my shop might be small 25x50 with a 12tall by 14 wide door but its insulated and heated don't miss working outside one bit.

yesterday i got the last of the hardware is installed, got my control valve and started plumbing everything

control valve is real nice built in regulator set up to auto lift for reverse. came with some quick release valves ect. still have to Finnish installing the valve

i told myself to take the day off today but i didn't listen

finished plumbing the air bags and installing the control box under the bunk and did a little painting, getting close to being done, have to run the break lines rims tires and wire the switch into the dash and Finnish welding in the bracket for the cross brace for the exhaust where i ran out of wire and it will be done. I picked up some welding wire today to Finnish welding that up but i guess i thought i was running .35 wire where i was running .30 and didn't have any .35 contact tips so ill have to pickup some .30 wire or some .35 contact tips tomorrow.

the 11r 24 was just to check fit not the tires im going to be running on it.

got some progress made its going a lot slower than i expected.

i knew exhaust fitmit was going to be a issue and that took up a big part of today, i thought i had it worked out by moving the mount back 4 inches to be able to bolt it up, once i got it back on i realized i had even more fitmit issues the tire was going to hit the exhaust. i had to make a new exhaust stand to move the stack inboard so everything would clear.

yup im going to install it on 4' center its actually sitting a bit forward of that in the picture. the 1/4 fenders make it look like its sitting back further. at 4' spacing ill get 42 on the group 3 axels 8'-c from rear drive axle to the pusher. same spacing as on my trailer, but my outer bridge will be 92k

part of my reason for getting a new truck was wanting a tri-axle the truck that i bought did not already have one but has plenty of room. I have a little time at the moment and i was checking pricing at a few places on pusher axle's when i stopped at one place that they say we got a used one sitting out back $1000 its all yours. so i go look it over. seems pretty decent, its a heavier style than i was really looking for but i figured at saving nearly 4k over a new one for one that was two years old pulled off a wreck and everything seems good and tight on it with good breaks complete drum to drum, steerable air up down. so i bought it.

not sure if i will have any questions or not so far all i have done is got the pusher to the shop got it unloaded and slid it under the truck. so far the biggest issue i see is going to be re-mounting the exhaust after installing the pusher. the stack bracket is going to be in kinda a bad place ill have to figure that out. tomorrow I'm going to try to get everything off the truck that's going to be in the way get the pusher up on the frame and go from there.

i just figured i would update this. i found it took a creeper and a work light to find it bolted to the inside of the frame rail about a foot forward of the air compressor.

i have always been a pete fan. i have drove a lot of them and like them in my company driver days, iv drove a good handful of w'9's as well did not like them as much as the petes. I have never bought either though. I am a used pre-emmisions truck guy and just cant justify the inflated purchase price on a large car. this is my first mack seems better suited for my application (i pull mostly belly and side dump) and i like the mack so far.

i would say if no near by pete dealer i would not consider purchasing a pete. where im based from i have dealer support for all brands. so that leaves me alot of options but theirs always them pieces that you need that have to come from a dealership and if buying a new truck you will have to have some warranty repairs done. not if but when, unfortunately with all the junk bolted onto the newer trucks there will be some issues regardless of brand.

i would be interested in a pair 30 inch black or white rubber if these come available

2000 mack vision e-7 where the heak is the air governor, i don't see it on the compressor or anywhere.

no slider, the previous owner made a window screen that velco's over the window so there is a Velcro strip on the window frame for that to attach to. i figured id leave it on there for now not that ill be sleeping with the windows down much this time of the year but come summer time i normally sleep with windows open and the truck shut off. so i thought it was a good idea.

the truck has the wing vent windows with power up down windows, don't know if they all came like that they probably did.

thanks for the welcomes.

and 70" mid roof sleeper is huge for me as well...lol iv been in a 42" flat top longer than i care to think about. first time i woke up and was able to stand to put my pants on i wasn't sure i could remember how to do it.

a few more pictures

i use a blue parrot, witch i like.

i have seen the cb's that say they are blue tooth but never really thought about it.

do you have to key up the mike when you talk back to the person on the phone or is it just a constant mic like a headseat?

what about when you need to transmit or receive cb while your on Bluetooth?

have you checked the switch itself yet?

i like that idea but i lack fine wood working skills to make somthing that looked good like that.