Ezrider

im really not sure what the story is on that one saw it on Facebook shortly after seeing the broken crank one. im guessing probably a ship looks expensive anyway

good point on the trailer lights, i was thinking led's witch are polarity sensitive. reg bulbs don't care what way the current goes.

your break controller defiantly looks like the way to go. nice setup

for the most part for trailers designed to be pulled by pickups behind a semi you don't need trailer breaks. the weight of the combination will normally exceed the trailers weight limit before you exceed the tractor break ratings. that being said if it was going to be a regular thing i would want to get the trailer breaks set up. another thing you have probably already thought of is you will need to re-wire the trailer lights to positive ground as well.

i was drooling over that pic a few days ago. awesome picture of your truck

oofff that looks bad

how the f do you throw a mattress out while driving. iv put mattresses in trucks before and they can be a pain to snake in and out threw the door with the truck stationary. hell even a fridge could be tough while driving.

this was one of my Christmas presents this year. it might take me till next year to watch them all...lol

i know eaton fuller rears have had some issues with cracking, i have welded a couple of them up another one we welded on once and then it was starting to leak again before they blew out the 3rd so we just found a complete junk yard axle with a matching gear set and bolted it in. memory is a little foggy but i want to say it was around 5k complete hub to hub. for the forward diff

sorry to hear that.

trying to figure out a issue with a med duty single axle dump truck that has hydro breaks with a electric over hydrolic park break. its a 97 chevy cab kinda simular to like a top kick or kodiak but a bit older. its got a hydo boost break booster runs off the power steering made by bendex and a electric motor on the break booster witch i assume is how it apply the park break. have not spent more than a couple min looking it over so far but just got it pulled in and the snow melting off. any way the breaks seem to work good the park break mechanism seems to work good but when you release the parking break the the day time running lamps come on but then the park break light starts flashing on and off witch then flashes the day time running lamps flash on and off. the breaks are not actually applying. then after a little while the lights stop flashing and the service park break light comes on. this system is not something iv ever messed with fimillar with air breaks and hydo breaks but not hydro breaks trying to be air breaks. so if anyone knows this system.

well maybe the last chapter in this one. fired right up first thing this morning lit off with no installation issues no check engine lights no leaks finished the last few little things. runs good drives good. but the engine they supplied me to put in has a little cam phaser noise. then they bached at my bill even though i gave them a pretty hefty discount off the actual amount of time that i put into it. they thought a engine swap should be $500 umm maybe for a car made in the 80's. ended up dropping a extra 100 off the bill. they supplied the engine so if the engine has a problem its not my problem. i called them about the noise (witch really isn't too bad) as soon as i fired the engine up for the first time had them come over and listen too it and they said to just Finnish putting everything together. told them if they want to put cam phasers in it to bring it back and id give them a break on the labor to do them. all in all they seem happy and said they would drive it for a while and decide if they want to do cam phasers or not. makes me look forward to getting back to making money with the truck in the spring. next project is already pulled in a single axle medium duty dump truck that im sure to do some head scratching on i might post up another thread on that one luckally that one there in no hurry for

iv never even seen anything like that in person so ill be of no help but i will say that i dig the idea that would make a very cool camper

the headlight restoration kits work well. i normally make my own "kit" some 1000-1500-2000 grit sand paper and some buffing compounds normally have all that stuff on the shelf already anyway. i have used the restoration kits before though and they work fine. if they are only a little bit hazy just a good rub with some compound can clean them up

18 hours in. ready to fire less fluids. picked up a new oil filter and fluids on my way home should be firing it up not long after i get back at it tomorrow. then assuming all that goes good a little bit of buttoning up some little odds and ends recharging the a/c and it will be done.

I think I'm understanding this "female" friendly stuff. I think they are going to put the guage a little higher in the dash for easier viewing for some girls??

that could engage my automatic steering wheel lock.

well things went fairly smooth on it today. pulled the intake off the new motor and got it ready to go in then it dropped right in place. only little hickup today was the dip stick tube on the replacement engine was mangled and kinked. so i pulled the dipstick tube off the old engine and then when i went to take the dipstick tube off the new engine it broke off at the block. glad i decided to do that with the engine out of the car rather than wait till i had it in. other than that everything went together pretty good. all the accessory are back on motor is bolted to the trans less torque converter bolts. starters back in still have the exhaust fuel rail and torque converter bolts left then putting the body radiators ect back together at about 14 hours of time put into it so far. i think i can see 16 hours being quite doable after you have done a few of them.

very nice. looks very well cared for.

manufacture date is 6-07 i think that would be a bit early for a 08 model but i suppose its possible. i will probably need to varify with the owner before too long so i don't end up getting any wrong parts.

small win today

got the engine out after i did that preasure washed down the engine bay and did a general shop clean up ill let it dry off over night maybe over the weekend and then start prepping the new engine to go in.

iv seen similar on coastal cars the salty air rusts them from the top down leaving everything underneath actually relatively rust free. so they look like there a lost cause but really pretty solid cars

7.3 was the best diesel ford ever had. I heard they couldn't comply with emissions that's why they quit using that engine and went with their own 6.0 instead of the Navistar 7.3. we still have a 99 f350 at work with a 7.3 and over 350,000 miles on it and the odometer has not worked in 7 years and all its had done is the glow plug harness in the valve cover changed twice.

emissions drove the 7.3 out the 6.0 was still a navstar engine. the 6.0 was such a epic failure of a engine that ford sued navstar and went to a in house motor with the 6.4 the 6.4 has some issues too better than the 6.0 but still a bit of a troublesome engine. haven't really messed with any 6.4's much

Depending on gas or diesel and which cab design, he can R and R a SD engine in 13-16 hours.

thanks

i suppose i will probably have to cap my labor at about 16 hours then, ill surly go over that but its kinda expected to take a little longer than it should the first time you do a different model.

i only spent about 2 hours on it today parts for a axle on a bucket truck i was working came in today so i had to get that slapped back together. and then the replacement motor for this truck showed up so i had to go get it and take it too my shop and some other running around ate up a lot of today.

the motor is just about ready to lift out on the super-duty now. probably a hour or less once i get back to it and the motor will be ready to lift out. got about 8-8.5 in it so far.

ford has had enough issues i have chevys now. quite a few years ago now i used to do all the mechanic work for a company that had all fords for pickups. all there diesels were 7.3's at the time witch although they have a couple little minor issues with them were dang good engines, they had tons of problems with there gas engines. the trucks were early 2000's witch were not that old at the time. they all liked to blow spark plugs out of the heads. witch you could tap and helicoil once but if the same plug blew out again you pretty much had to replace the head witch was a chore. but doable on that body style. Id hate to have to do that job on this truck im working on now had a few engines go in them as well in them as well. the biggest pia they had was a cube van they had with a v10.

my personal truck back then was a 97 ford f250 with a 7.3L was a darn good truck sold it in i think 2009 with 400k miles on it. it was starting to get tired but still ran good and the paint was starting to get quite a few rust bubbles so i figured i best get rid of it while it still looked good and ran good. but thats when everyone was trying to dump all there 6.0's and 7.3's in the newer body style were fetching top dollar so i ended up buying a 2003 gmc 2500hd with the 8.1L and Allison. other than fuel millage not being great its a great truck. only had 80k miles on it when i bought it. then my service truck is a 97 chevy 2500 with a 350. its a good truck but it lost a cyl last year bent push rod so i got a good junk yard pullout and put in it. still have the other motor out of that truck sitting around waiting for me to rebuild it whenever i get motivated to do it. I like ford trucks but them early trition motors put a bad taste in my mouth and i wouldn't want a ford desel newer than a 7.3L. I probably still got a few years before i upgrade my pickup again at witch time i might pull my service bed off the 97 and put it on my 03 and get something else

Did it to my brother in law 2006 f 150 5.4 triton. I'm not a Ford tech took 3 week ends. Torque converter bolts suck. They want you to get pullers for the power steering pully but I just worked the bolt out on turn at a time and same for the air condition pump. Think I had to drop the front axle a little. Be carefull with the vacum lines for the front hubs if it's a 4 wheel drive. Good luck.post-2708-0-18433000-1380368304_thumb.jpg

this one is the f250 superduty yours appears to be the light duty 250 witch is based off the f-150 chassis. the power stearing pump is already off on this one, someone changed the ps pump at some point becouse one of the bolts was buggerd up and another was missing. but it didn't come off too bad no need to take the pulley off just un bolt it from the motor and tie it back out of the way.