rw613

Overall a well designed truck that was powerful, efficient and troublefree. Common use of parts among models, long production runs of similar products, both allowing for ease of repair when repair was necessary.

Look at the length of time the basic engine design, the transmission design, the rear differential design, the rear suspension design have been used. No other manufacturer designed components to compliment one another as did. Pedigreed Performance.

Macks got the job done, pre-electronic trucks will be getting the job done well after the electronic versions have been recycled into lawn furniture, televisions and Camry's. They will just be doing this work in countries that have discovered the value of them and have been buying them all up!

Built Like A Truck

A peek inside my mind compares an R-model to the Ford model-T, Ford C-model, Ford L-model, Dodge Power-Wagon, Willys or Jeep CJ, or if you are into the foreign stuff (I'm NOT) the VW bug. The longevity of these models speak volumes for the success of these vehicles.

Besides all of that, truth in advertising, The Greatest Name In Trucks!

amen

I need some help locating either the Mack part numbers or aftermarket parts for the stowage compartment lamp and switch. The lamp is clear and the following is moulded in the lens "ARROW 20023". I did a search on the internet and found two (2) Arrow lamps. They look the same but neither use a 194 spade bulb. The switch is a momentary type that is spring loaded (white and about 3/4" in diameter) and makes contact (turns on the light) when you open the compartment door. The switch has LITTELFUSE moulded in the back. Again I did a search and I found the LITTELFUSE website but they do not list the switch or anything close. I searched (read) every page in my parts book (specific to my truck) and I cannot find the lamp or switch listed anywhere. It does mention the lamps in the wiring diagram but does not list the part numbers. I really want to keep it 100% original. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks for any help!

i have been trying to get the weatherstriping for the cargo doors for two years for my 91 mh and cant find any thing

I'm kicking around the idea of building a Superliner to haul logs and am looking for info. on shops that know their way around an E-9. I'm not looking to make 1000 horse but more along the lines of any improvements for longevity, if this makes any sense, thanks Rick

you can mack big power with out touching the pump if thers nothing wrong with your pump leave it alone turbo and injectors will put you way up there

what do these mounts look like? I dont want to mount the exhaust on the cab when its built.

and we had this descussion a while ago when i was chaseing cab panels! he wanted a vin for that! my response was look at the microfish, they dont make cabs specific to vins! there all the same! funny thing was tho he didnt know what a microfish was either!

Grant

HERE IS THE VIN FOR MINE 1040 THAT SHOULD GET YOU WHAT YOU NEED

Can anyone help me,I am restoring a 88 Superliner I am going from a single exhaust to a duel exhaust,the exhaust is not cab mounted,it is mounted to the steel uprights,air-ride cab.I am needing a VIN number from a daycab Superliner or at least the last 6 digits so I can order the exhaust elbows,my dealer says they can't help me unless I have a vin from a twin stack day cab air-ride cab.Any help would be great.

AL

AL ARE YOU GOING WITH 4 INCH OR 5 INCH EXHAUST

Suppose you were starting with a bare block how would you go about building max reliable horsepower from a mechanical e7? The reason i ask is i want to build a replacement engine for my truck and i was thinking the stock 400 would be good starting point but i'am really shooting for around 500 hp if it can be kept reliable. Right now i'am looking to gather info on which parts to use and where to have pump work done. Thanks for any help you can provide

YOU CAN DO 500HP AND PROBALY NOT TOUCH THE

PUMP CALL ANTRIM DISEL 1717 597 7963

This gets me so MAD. WTF is happening to MACK Trucks.

i would go out of business before going to volvo

VOLVO NEVER EVEN HAD A TRUCK UNTIL THEY BOUGHT MACK NOW THERE DOING EVERY THING THEY CAN TO DESTROY THERE NAME BUT EVEN AFTER MACK IS GONE IF THAT EVER HAPPENS VOLVO WILL STILL BE JUST A PICE OF SHIT

the orginal elbow on the drivers side was a 90 with a bend in to get closer to the y pipe

We have a 1981 F model Mich spec spec truck for sale this is one of a kind orig owner bought new in 81 400 BC cum .sleeper which still has factory plastic on it. 13 spd fuller 44k Mack rears Never outfitted with fifth wheel or wet kit, spoke rims red in color trying to get pictures posted just a little behind on computer skills. We really don't have anything to compare it to for a price? this truck has less than 100 original miles.

WHAT HAVE YOU DONE WITH IT ALL THESE YEARS THAT IS A SWEET HEART HOW MUCH

you said it thad

FELLOWS I WISH I KNEW HOW TO I GOT ALOT OF PICTURES

there is a pic of the ENDT 1000 in John B Montville's book 'Mack', there is reference to it, it says experimental, output in the 360-500 hp range, field testing during 1973. The pic shows what is clearly an E 9 as opposed to an ENDT865/866, Mack was still using the END engine designation at the time. It has engine mounted air to air intercooling and you can see the turbine tip fan housing at the front, it is mounted atop the engine . Hope this helps, Jeffro

i have pictures of the 1000 hp military e9 two turbos

Now that I've got the H-63 running, I thought now's a good time to take it around the block a few times. I thought I got all of the brakes dialed in pretty good but I was wrong. When I push the control valve in to release the brakes, I still have to get out and push the slack adjuster inward on the driver side rear can to move the truck. Once I get the truck rolling and begin to brake, halfway down on the pedal and it wants to stop immediately. When I take off the brakes feel like they're draggin a little too. Where do I start? I don't have any more leaks to speak of and the compressor's puttin out alot of air pressure. I replaced both valves in the rear also. Tried taking the covers off the rears to look at the brakes. Took both sets of 7/16" nuts off the top and bottom but noticed four 15/16" bolts need to come off to. Loosened them up and feels like they're spinning behind the brake cover. Do I have to take the rear wheels off to do this?

sounds like your s cam may be frooze up or the spring in the can is weak or broke or the big spring on your brake shoes is broke

As i'm getting more of an education with these trucks, i'm having to also have a reality check. Cause everything that I thought was reasonable is not. It depends on how bad you want it. Anyway if you want, check with Allmack.com or call Kevin phone# 607-652-7704 he might be able to help. He has helped me with the B model emblems.

Regards

mike

i think its the same as a bmodel

Well I've figured out my fuel rack problem with the help of Rob and Garth but I have another roadblock now. I removed the old exhaust system which was patched a million times and thought I could simplify it with some new galvanized tubing. The bottom flange that bolts to the exhaust manifold hits the top of the frame and the main airline from the compressor. The exhaust manifold turns down and to the rear at a 45 degree angle. The flange and tubing that was on it was 4" pipe. I bought a new piece and after cleaning everything up, I could not get the flange to correctly bolt up to the exhaust manifold. I want to know if anybody has any pics of the engine and exhaust system. I don't know if the original exhaust manifold was changed and if the 4" tubing is not the original size. Also I noticed the dipstick and oil filler tube had to by pushed over to the driver side to remove the exhaust flange. I would appreciate any comments or pics if anybody has some, Thanks. Actually any interior pics would be helpful also..

is yours a none turbo if so i can mail you pictures i cant email them i cant get them to work or give me a call 540 433 2484 neil

Ok I should have known a site like this existed but none the less I was pleasantly surprised. Problem is it contains adult material so I will not directly link to it. Just google "stacks and cracks" . Full of Petes and KW's, we need to get a bull dog on there! A B model or Superliner would be perfect.

Maybe Rob can model lol!

The internet never ceases to amaze me. Barry, I hope this isn't inappropriate.

ILL FURNISH THE TRUCK ILL LET THEM PICCK THE TRUCK TO SUPERLINERS H MODELS B MODELS CRUISELINERS MH CL CH VISION F MODEL DMS WHATEVER JUST AS LONG AS I GET TO BE THE NIPPEL PECKER FOR THE DAY

You don't EVER cut a frame behind the cab and "graft" a suspension cutoff on to it!!!!!!!!!

The proper way is to remove all the existing suspension from your frame, then install the suspension from the "cutoff" onto your frame.

YES HK IM SOORY I SHOULD HAVE BEEN A LITTLE MORE PLAIN BUT ANY BODY THAT HAS SPENT A LOT OF TIME IN A TRUCK WITH REYCO ON IT NOWS WHAT I MEAN YES TAKE ALL THE CROSSMEMBERS OUT OF YOUR OLD FRAME AND SLIDE THE OTHER INSIDE I STAND CORRECTED

IF YOU HAVE REYCO THE BEST THING TO DO IS CUT IT BEHIND THE CAB AND FIND A 90S MODEL CH WITH 4 BAG AIR RIDE AND PUT UNDER IT THERES NOTHING YOU CAN DO TO HELP REYCO IT JUST SUCKS

THATS RIGHT

i s it just me or does the wheels of time suck anymore i use to knock the mailman down to get but now it lays on the table for two days i think doubleclutch gets better every time and old time trucks to

does any one have a good f700 emblem that i can get re chromed thanks

YES

YOU CAN GET STUFF FOR A RD OR HAVE YOURS REDONE THE WAY YOU WANT THEM

HOW MANY DETROITS DO YOU SEE IN THE PULLING SERIES NOW

I am working on installing a 237 into my B, I can't find a part number for the coolant filter on this engine, the normal sized filter is far to small. The filter threads on to a boss between the fan and the coolant manifold. It is about the same diam. as the oil filter. The engine is about a 78 model year acording to the casting dates on the block. It also had the extended service interval oil pan and three oil filters, I dont know if this makes a difference on the coolant filter. Thanks for any help

Fred

MACK PART #25MF436B FRAM PART#PR3433