Camelback

That is the best way to do them fjh except most ppl don't go to the trouble of it and i am guilty of that myself. Grease is the key to the bronze bushings. they actually need a grease fitting on the bottom side also. Even if they are not jacked up its best to at least hit them once a day with a squirt of grease.

fjh by putting a 350 turbo on the 300 isn't going to change the working range that much at all. were simply making the 300 breath a lil easier by doing this. The only downfault i see to doing this would be the cost of a new turbo.

Let me know how it goes and if everything will bolt right up without modifications. If something don't work out with it like the hoses and lines let me in on it so we will both learn something and know what will work and what want next time we run across this. I am pretty sure it should work though

The part # is 631GC5134P7MAT .... My engine is a mechanical but i am about 100% sure the oil lines will bolt up. The only obstacle i might see is my engine is a tip turbine, where yours is surely an air to air. I think its the same turbo though the only thing you should have to do is loosen the clamp on the intake side of the turbo and spin it to fit the air to air. Hope this helps you out some !

I forgot to mention in my first reply that you have a 12 volt system. 2, 6 volts hooked up in series makes a 12 but less cranking power. the better way to go is 2 ,12 volts in parralel will give you more cranking power.

Being a 74 model the truck came out with 4, 6 volts hooked up in a series. You can go with the 6's but the more modern way to do it is take 2 ,12 volt batteries and hook them up parellel. You get better service and less trouble out of the 12's parellel. Usually 2 will be all the cranking power you will ever need. Thats how i done my R-600 79 model. I more or less use my passengers side battery box as an tool box.

if its got a 300 turbo on it now i would change it out sooner or later to at least a 350 turbo because no matter what else you do to the engine without a turbo swap your not going to be satisfied. A 300 with a 350 turbo with a lil fuel added to it will have no trouble keeping up with the 350's. I done that to one of my ol mechanical 300's and you would swear it was a 350 when u pulled a load with her. Seems like if you put the fuel to one without changing the turbo all you do is get all smoke and no go. Brain whats the numbers on your turbo ? I can hook you up with the right part number to go looking for if you can get me the numbers on yours too see what your already running. Every time i go to the parts house and tell them i need a 350 turbo i never get the right one unless i have that number with me. There must be several different ones for the 350's and i have only found one that will make it run. I will go rare the hood up and get that number off it if you want it.

I have an 74,77, and 79 R-600's and all three have the old style door latches , know the history of the trucks since they were new and thats what they came out with.

If it was me i would put a 350 turbo on it and she will run like a scalded dog. I have the part number to one if you would like. schiweizer is what i would go with instead of the air reasearches.

definatly don't run a 300 with out the intercooler you will melt er down and be on the sluggish side. If it was me i would just do a inframe rebuilt and you should be good to go. also a 237 block and a 300 block is the same and you can convert your 237 to a 300 if you want to go that route i have done it before in my 74 R-600. Someone correct me if i am wrong its been years ago since i done it and i believe you gotta change crank,rods,pump injectors and turbo to convert it to a 300

I always used prybars and always got the job done, A lil trick that will help you later when you have to pull them again is i always put anti seize on them now when i install injectors and have never had a sticky one yet.

I personallly would never run a robert bosch pump, way too easy to run away. I run a 350 2 valve here in kentucky hauling coal grossing out at 126,000 and we always turn the fuel up for the heavy loads and always get years of service with no problems on the engine. Just keep an eye on your smoke output and pryometer to make sure you haven't turned too much to the dog. Keep a check on coolant temperature also when pulled down loaded and makes sure it isn't running up there. I turned mine up a lil too much one day and had the coolant temp running a lil hot.

I personallly would never run a robert bosch pump, way too easy to run away. I run a 350 2 valve here in kentucky hauling coal grossing out at 126,000 and we always turn the fuel up for the heavy loads and always get years of service with no problems on the engine. Just keep an eye on your smoke output and pryometer to make sure you haven't turned too much to the dog. Keep a check on coolant temperature also when pulled down loaded and makes sure it isn't running up there. I turned mine up a lil too much one day and had the coolant temp running a lil hot.

Whats your wheelbase? I stretched 2 of my ol dogs out and i feel nothing with the steering axle now

Make sure the wheel hasn't slipped up on the stops, there are 2 lil knobs on the rim beside the valve stems. If it has slipped it can be a pain in the you know what to free it sometimes. If it hasn't slipped then all you can really do is jar the hub the best you can with the brakes released to free it. Daytons can be a pain sometimes but i eventually always seem to get them loose. Driving might help free them up though i have never had to go to that extent to get them looses before.

Heres my 2 cents for what its worth. I have no ideal about the part numbers or the size they have always worked when i bought them and never really checked the size of them. But i do know that the Red bushings will outlast the rubber bushings by a long shot. The rubber ones always seemed to wear too quick for me. I eventually changed the stands and springs over too 44,000 with the brass bushings on a 74 R-600 that orignally had 38,000 I got alot more service out of it after the swap but it really does depend on how your using the truck before you convert it over to the brass bushing type

Now if it was me i would keep the 4:17's and put a overdrive transmission in if you don't already have one its hard to say since you never said what type of gear box you are running currently. If you do alot of off roading with this truck i would not gear up the rears. It is best to always gear the rears down and the gearbox up. I have a 79 R-600 that came out with a 6 speed maxidyne with 4:17 rears. I hauled coal out of the strip pits and then trucked it over the open road. So what i done was swapped the 4:17's for 4:50's and then i put a eaton RTO 15 speed in and am well satisfied with it. The rears gets weaker the higher geared they are so if you do alot of off roading in the muddy pits its always best to keep them low as possible and run an overdrive tranny.