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About ultratruck

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    First Gear
  1. The way to reset a solo is remove it from the truck and then you clamp it. if you do make sure you put bolts in before you remove it. You can take all the free play out witch is not the right way but might help. If your fork was not replaced it could be the problem. Talking about the clutch fork, They get eaten up on even the bushings and two shafts that go to the fork. If some one familiar with clutches changed it they inspected and replaced what was needed. If not a little slop anywhere makes a bigger problem later. If all is good the solo does also cause this problem.
  2. Check and drain air tanks. If you have crud or if you dont check air pressure at lines into hi lo valve on the back if you have 60 or more put shop air in back and forth to where the high lo lines go on the valve. if you can not hear it shift pull the bolts out and remove the cover put a vise gripe on the nut you see and try to push it in and out. If air is leaking into the transmission it can be hard to hear you would need to monitor loss of air with button up and down. It can be the syncro is gone if the trans made any kind of noise before you parked in on the high to lo or the low to high shift it uses to different pads.
  3. I am sure you have got a tranny by now. But if it helps someone else and you are talking about pro gear in Orlando Fl. I have purchased parts and transmissions for many years. I have not had any issues with them and they have always helped me in any way they could.
  4. If the vibration is while parked got to believe I am wrong about the driveshaft being the cause. What king of wear is the clutch showing when taken out, One side, one disc or just inside 1/2 of the paddles? I had a cat that had a vibration and about 10000 miles later crank snapped at #5 main. I also had a 237 Mack that vibrated at 1100 - 1400 and never had any issues. I would dial indicate the crank also at flywheel mount if nothing else shows up.
  5. I have had problems similar and it would rip the center out of 1 clutch then go a while and the rip the other one time after time after about 3 or 4 months. I checked everything to do with the engine, clutch and transmission. After 4 or 5 times I figured it was the angle of the drive line caused from warn suspicion parts. The drive shaft should be inspected also. The vibration follows the drive shaft and if you have a fuller Eaton trans sometimes it will brake the pins loose on the synchronizer also.
  6. I think it is about 1/2 way between center of engine hooks and rear hook lifting on only motor. Pick up a little and you can set and adjust.
  7. I have a nice 06 freightliner Columbia mid roof. It has a 14 L 60 series and a 10 speed. It has a apu unit. All good brakes and rubber. Ready to work now. It is in good shape and its a rust free Florida truck that is located in Deland Fl. 32720 Looking for $16000. or may trade for a 359 ex hood pete.
  8. Most of the time it is one of the cruise switches that look like brake light switches. You can bypass them to check to see if the cruise works.
  9. I have a 2001 rd688s that shuts off going down the road. I have traced it to what I think is a relay getting hot. There are 2 relays in the glove compartment that get to around 150 or 160 and then one clicks and the truck shuts off. It is not the ignition relay that clicks. I have cleaned the starter to frame and frame to the block grounds and ran a new one also. I replaced the relays also. Any ideas would be great. After working on it some more I am not sure it is the relay shutting it of because the power and ground do not change after it shuts off only after the motor quits turning over.
  10. Look at the wheel bearings. If they are the same it should work.
  11. You need to have about a 1/2 inch of clearance between the pressure plate and the throw out bearing. Then about 2 inches of free play. Could be someone has just adjusted the free play. If you have that then time for the clutch to come out.
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