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Unselor

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    Mississippi

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    Fishing, Drag Racing, Making Money. But not necessarily in that order.
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  1. It was the range syncro worn out. It's in the shop now and should be finished this afternoon. It was just acting funny I guess slipping in and out making it seem like the clutch. We'll know for sure once it gets back on the road under load but that syncro is definitely shot.
  2. Guys, I need some input. Last Friday, on a haul from Memphis to The Gulf Coast the truck would be pulling good up a hill and the engine would just rev up on it's own. If you got out of the throttle, the engine would slow back to normal RPM and you could accelerate again and it would be fine. It did this 4 times that night. On Monday, after sitting for the weekend, it started doing it in 6th gear and 9th gear too. The load was light, around 15,000#. It hasn't ever done this before, even fully loaded in steeper hills. There aren't alot of steep hills between Memphis and South Mississippi to begin with. 2007 CH613. trans is a T310, engine is ASET 427 and it stayed in high gear the entire trip on Friday. Would a clutch that's on it's way out cause this? It feels good, has a good pedal and seems to have the correct free travel after it engages. Someone mentioned the range selector could be kicking out of high. Is there a "neutral" position that it could go into and make the engine rev until you ease off the throttle and make it engage again? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Guys, please forgive my ignorance but I don't know the technical terms for some of these components. Anyway, here goes: I have an '07 CHN 613 with the AL401 rear suspension with S40 axles. During a recent inspection it was discovered that the studs holding what I would call a "dog bone" to the rear axle had sheared off on the right side rear axle. This component obviously holds the axle in line with the chassis and is not adjustable. The same item but on the left side is adjustable. The front of this thing is attached to the frame with bolts (to the bracket that the "S" shaped spring thing rides in). The rear of it attaches to the knot that sits under the U-bolts and is where these studs were broken off. It appears these studs were M16-2.0 metric threads. We couldn't find anything to match so in order to get the unit back on the road until I could do further research, we drilled out the stud remnants, bored the holes larger, installed 5/8-18 helicoil thread inserts and bolted it back with two 5/8 x 2" long grade 8 bolts (fine thread). Again, this was in the knot that sits under the U-bolts. Have you guys seen this happen before? It looks like I'll need to replace the knot thing and new studs with new nuts. Would you think we'd need to replace the U-bolts. It was mentioned somewhere that anytime you take U-bolts loose, it's best to go ahead and replace them. Also, feel free to help me with the proper terminology for these parts. Thanks.
  4. Actually mine doesn't have a DPF. It looks like they used a 2006 engine in this chassis from the factory. I don't understand it but the truck is a 2007 model or that's what the VIN indicates and what's on the title. I may be wrong, however. It wouldn't be the first time.
  5. Thanks for the reply. So, if I understand correctly, I could see some improvement in fuel mileage if I get one of the EECU's programmed to the vehicle, unit pumps and turbo. The engine idles and runs fine now so I wouldn't expect to see any improvements there. On the other hand, if the unit pump calibration is close enough, there won't be any significant mileage gains seen with a reprogramming of the EECU. With that said, does anybody know if the programming in the '05 EECU is in any way different than the programming in the '07 EECU other than unit pump calibration and turbo? I'm told the EECU won't match the rest of the truck electronic modules but that shouldn't be a concern (or should it). The reason I'm asking is, if the '05 EECU is programmed with the current unit pump calibrations, which it should be since it came with the replacement engine, would the '05 EECU do better than the '07 one? Would it do any harm to install the '05 one and see if fuel mileage improves? This guy says he can tune my EECU to give me better fuel mileage, more power and better throttle response. If I decide to give it a try, I'll definitely monitor turbo temp and see what happens there. (He recommends this also) He can also command EGR to never open (if I ever go off-road or move out of the country). This effectively makes the EGR valve inoperable and no gases can enter the system. I think he turns off some of the things that makes the codes set too because he's telling me there is no codes set and no light. But he has to start with the factory programming and apparently I don't currently have an accurate factory program in either EECU. What would you guys do?
  6. Thanks. I've started a thread in the Engine and Transmission forum explaining my concerns and I'm hoping to get some advice.
  7. Long story so I'll give you the cliff notes version. 2007, CHN613, AC427, purchased new to pull an end dump. The engine got destroyed with ~107,000 miles on it. I bought a used 427 engine out of an '05, shipped it in and installed it. The turbo was non-functional on the replacement engine so I put the original turbo on. Other than some of the coolant system components and the turbo, all engine parts are from the replacement engine including the unit pumps, wiring harness, sensors, etc. I installed the original EECU on the replacement engine also. All this took place in December, 2010. The dirt hauling business hit rock bottom around here about that time so the truck got used very little afterwards. Fast forward to February 2012. We decided to go in a different direction with the truck so we bought a flatbed and over the road it now goes. It runs good, no EECU codes and seems to do just fine. It started the new adventure with around 120,000 miles (roughly). It now has just over 200,000 on it and recently we had to replace the EGR cooler (go figure). Since we had a perfectly good one on the tore up engine, it only cost me some coolant, a reservoir cap and one busted knuckle. I figured it'd be best if I did a little research on cause and effect of this phenomenon so I check the internet and find some really good info. Needless to say, a lot of it was on this forum. I'm kinda thinking along the lines of computer controlled EGR system, data tables, program logic, EGR delete, etc............ I figure someone has to be doing this, right. So I find the guy who's doing it and give him a call. He's like, "send me your EECU and I can reprogram it in one hour." Well, the truck needs to be down three days for that to happen. Now comes my genius idea. I've got the EECU from the replacement engine. I could send him this one, let him do his thing and I still have the original with the factory programming. I discuss this with the guy and he's all for it except he still needs the original. He would create a duplicate program in the replacement EECU that matched the original, then install the mods. This would insure all parameters are correct. Well, this means the truck is still down for three days. So I hang up with the guy and think about it for a while. Now comes my second genius idea. Take the truck to the Mack dealer and let him program the replacement EECU. Better yet, ask him if the programming in the two are the same. So I get them on the phone and explain all this and what I want to do. I'm informed that they need to install the factory program and calibration off each unit pump and the turbo when they replace an EECU. So now I'm thinking, I installed my original EECU onto an engine with different unit pumps. Should this info have been put into the EECU when the engine was replaced. So now I'm wondering how I should address my dilemma. Here's the dilemma: Original EECU programmed to vehicle and current turbo but not to current unit pumps. Replacement EECU is probably programmed to current unit pumps but not to turbo and vehicle. I haven't tried the replacement EECU in the vehicle to see if it would even run with it. I don't know that I really want to try it. Or if I should try it. So what do y'all think. I guess the obvious question is do I even need to be concerned with this? How different is the calibration between the unit pumps? Is there any gains to be had if I were to spend the money and have at least one of these EECU's programmed to fit everything? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Hey guys, new from the Mississippi Gulf Coast and wanting to learn some stuff about my truck. I've been reading a lot of posts on here and found some great info so I decided to join and share my "journey" with you folks and see if I can learn a little more. I've got a 2007 CHN613 with a 427 and I plan to start a thread shortly in the appropriate section. Thanks.
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