steeler

Ya I always try the regen first, sometimes it works for me and sometimes not.

The code won't go inactive until it goes thru it's checks with the 5mph derate temporarily removed. Drive it like that for 30 minutes or so and it will either clear out or tell you it's going to derate again.

Ok last update.....it always amazes me how you never seem to get the WHOLE story from the customer. Anyway, now I'm told the engine (other than the injection pump) is from a different truck. Engine is a 1994, truck is a 1997. So I'm told they took an engine from a vmac1 truck and just swapped the injection pump. This might not be an issue, I'm not sure if there are any major differences there. Either way it doesn't matter, customer picked the truck up and is going to run it till fall, then pull the transmission and check the flywheel. Thanks for everyone's help!

Ok after going thru it all again, I can disregard that 33 fault code. I was using a pro link and had the vmac1 cartridge in it. I hooked up the laptop and it's actually a 32, for the rpm sensor. I've eliminated the wiring and sensor, so I believe they have the wrong flywheel in it. I don't know who was working on it before but damn, let's just say he was a hack. Sad thing is, I'll probably never know what the outcome is. The only reason it's at my shop is because nobody else could figure it out, so the customer is going to pull the flywheel out himself.

Hmm. Interesting. Ya everything I'm looking at other than the module screams vmac 1. But I checked the vin and it is coming up as vmac2. The pump part number is correct. I got more info on this truck. I noticed it has a new clutch and flywheel somebody else put in. I'm now suspecting they may have the wrong flywheel and the rpm sensor is not reading it. The engine will die if I unplug the tem at the pump, but runs the same with the rpm sensor unplugged. That tells me I've got something fishy going on with the rpm sensor. It's supposed to ohm at 200-300, but I've got 180. It's a PAI sensor, I'm going to put a Mack sensor in it and see what happens.

Thanks pro. I'm not with the truck right now but I do know there is a bulkhead harness going into the firewall on the passenger side. I remember that was how I could always tell a 1 from 2, but I couldn't remember which was which. So, sounds like a 1, so why does my module have a vmac 2 sticker on it? Didn't the 1s have an fic module?

No, it won't damage anything at all. It's just annoying.

Yup sure sounds like resonant ride. Unfortunately I'm not sure there's much you can do to fix it. We've sent pumps out before, some were better, most weren't. I'll do some digging about that contraption Mack came out with. Maybe someone else here knows of a fix?

Yes, resonant ride in the pump feels kinda like the fuel rack in the pump is bouncing back and forth, usually right around that rpm. I remember it being a big pain in the ass in the early/mid 90s at the dealership I worked at. Sent out many pumps for this problem, but rarely was it ever fixed. I remember Mack coming out with some kind of contraption that mounted to the front of the pump to fix it, but man its been a long time! Does yours almost feel like you are bouncing the throttle real fast at that rpm? And usually if the engine had a strain on it, you wouldn't feel it. Only happens when there is steady rpm with little to no strain on the engine.

1200 rpm? Sounds like it could be a resonant ride issue with the pump?

Hi all. I've got a ch dump I'm working on that has a coughing/stumble mainly noticeable at idle. I have a 33 fault code. My vmac 1 book shows the 33 as injection pump speed sensor. My vmac 2 book doesn't show a 33 at all. Now it's been awhile for me since I don't see many of these older trucks anymore. The module in the cab is a vmac 2 module, but the customer has put a different engine in the truck, that's when this issue started. Is it possible that I have the wrong injection pump because of the wrong engine? Would everything plug in the same on 1 vs 2. Like I said, I'm big time out of practice on the older vmacs.

Not to derail this thread, but would a guy gain anything by just changing the manifold only?

We have a lot of old stock, I'll check in the morning, maybe you'll get lucky and we have some.

Really? I would have never guessed it. Other than going off of your user name! 😜 lol

Yup, Volvo sure has trashed Mack in my opinion. I mean, what's really left that is actually Mack? Transmission I guess, some suspension? They have even managed to screw up the diffs. Sad.

Glad it was only the injectors! A couple months ago I did a cam on an mp8 with only 200k.

Yup, I shoulda bought a valve spring compressor!

Oh ya, for sure. We do a lot of work for a nationwide garbage company. When we have issues, they make one call to Mack corporate and things happen. I feel bad for the small guys.

Wow. Just catching up on this thread, what a mess! When they replaced the engine, I assume it was just a basic that required all of your external components to be swapped to the new (reman I'm sure) engine? So you've still got the same egr cooler/turbo and all that? Theres a guy around here that back in the 90s had several trucks, they had braking issues. At the time I worked at the dealership and this guy fought this problem for probably a year as we threw every valve, shoe, drums, whatever Mack told us to throw at it we did. Never did fix the problem and Mack refused to give the guy new trucks. These were cl's. He ended up suing Mack over it, I don't think he got squat. The 2 trucks he was having the problem with he parked in a barn while the lawsuit was ongoing, several years. He never bought another Mack. And this is when they were solid trucks, not Volvos with a dog on the hood. Good luck to you man!

Maybe a stupid question, but is your plastic idler pulley still there? I've seen them go bad and break off the engine completely.

Did the new cups fix the problem?

Thank you!

And don't get lazy when tapping the copper sleeve and not go all the way thru. Ask me how I know. Had to pull the head for that mistake.

Do you have the part number for the install tool for conicals? I never knew they had one other than the pull thru. Is the push thru easier to use?

How are the pressures?