steeler

Yeah by the sound of ardakota's description, it sure sounds like a valve train issue. Might be difficult to isolate which cylinder if it only does it for a brief time at idle.

I had one years ago that had a similar problem, it was the Jake, even turned off. We pulled the Jake housings off and ran it, problem disappeared. In order to do that you would need shorter bolts obviously for the rockers. If it were me, that's the route I would take just to eliminate a Jake problem first.

Does it have a Jake?

I wasn't suggesting a patch job, just a temporary test rig. Injectors will only set a code if something is wrong with the circuit, so it is possible you could have an injector problem without a code.

Any smoke? Hard to say without hearing it. First thoughts are possibly bad unit pump, engine brake sticking. Does it sounds like just a fuel miss, or a valve train miss? I know it can be hard to tell without a trained ear.

I made an aluminum plate to block off the egr pipe at the mixer. You could do that and run it to eliminate a leaking the valve.

Yeah, I was starting to stress over this one. Nothing like tossing a few grand in parts and then explaining to the customer why it's still not fixed. Luckily I only had roughly 10 hrs in it before I found the problem. Thanks a bunch!

Ok found the problem. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I started pulling injectors looking for a cracked tip. The injectors looked awful new so we ran the part number and someone has put mp8 injectors in it. This truck runs all over the country as part of a fleet and rarely had the same driver in it so I guess that's why the company didn't put 2 and 2 together when the smoking started. So now I'm putting a cup and injector kit in it.

A diesel will run on ether as long as it has compression. Running on its own requires fuel to be injected at the right time.

Ok removed egr pipe and fabricated a plate to block intake pipe. Still dumping the smoke but at least I've eliminated the egr valve.

No problem!

I know this is old, but check your air compressor. Remove intake pipe from compressor and blow shop air in it with engine oil dipstick removed. See if you are getting air into crankcase. I've seen more than a few compressors with a busted piston do this. ETA....Didn't notice this is an mp engine. Might not apply in your case if the compressor intake is plumbed into air cleaner pipe, and not boosted air.

Any malfunction light? May have blown ecu or vcu fuse. If you have good fuel from injector lines at cylinder head, it should run unless there is an electrical issue.

Adjust the intake valves and injectors on camshaft markings 1-6. Adjust exhaust valves on camshaft markings with a "v" before the number. Injectors are adjusted zero lash plus 4 flats.

As 689 said, the old tools with the tap and puller is the only way you're going to get that out. Unless your luck is like mine. I broke one off in a d12 because I got lazy and didn't get it tapped all the way through. When I tried to tap it the rest of the way, it fell into the cylinder. Had to pull the head.

Hi all, hoping for a little advise here. I'm working on an mp7 with excessive black smoke. Good power, runs fine, no boost leaks, just loads of black smoke under acceleration. Even stomping it in neutral will get a good puff of smoke. No dtcs. I've checked egr valve movement with vcads, compared boost, mass air readings to another truck of same engine. All readings are pretty much the same. It acts as if the egr valve is leaking/not closing all the way but I was hoping for another opinion or 2. I sure wish there was a way to block the egr off to verify before I go ripping her apart.

Something to think about, Remack basics don't come with injectors in them. So you could have the originals still in there if they weren't replaced with the engine.

Getting ready to tackle a leaky flywheel housing. Are there any worries of creating another leak behind the gear plate? Also I'm assuming the starter, pan, air comp, ps pump, and upper gear cover need to be removed as well? I've had training on this engine but Damn it's been awhile!

Thanks guys. After another service regen it finally set a fault code. Ran the diagnostics and it said it needs a reprogram. Off to the dealer

Hey guys, I'm working on a us10 mp7. I have a blinking regen switch with no malfunction light, but the truck will not initiate a regen with the switch. I did a service regen but it was taking forever and I was only getting 700 degrees exhaust temp. I ended up replacing the 7th injector, that got me up to 900 degrees. Still not hot enough although it will complete a regen now, still have the blinking switch. Any ideas?

Sounds like syncro going south. It will get worse, to the point it will not stay in High range.

Thanks guys, apparently there has been an issue with this on the Volvo side but none with mack, here locally at least. Until now. Lol

I have an 08 Gu with an mp7 in our shop that came in a few weeks ago with a completely clogged DOC. It had a large piece of cloth like material that had been partially burned up by the heat, causing it to shred and clog the DOC. Replaced blown out flex pipes, cleaned DOC, truck ran great for 3 weeks. Now its back again with the same issue. This time I realized the cloth like material was actually part of the inside of the flex pipe, the first flex from the turbo. Apparently there is 2 layers a flex with this cloth stuff in between. Anybody seen this happen before? I cant figure out why the pipe is coming apart. Everything went together tight and straight, no reason that I can see for this to happen?