mrsmackpaul

You can buy normal old fashioned type of pyros that need anything except the exhaust with a bung for the sender

Maybe just get one and have a look, might of little help but might help find some answers or cancle out some ideas 

Paul 

Does your truck have a pyro meter ?

I haven't ever had a turbo fail so I can't be much help

I wonder if it is getting to hot in the exhaust causing the turbo to seize ?

As I understand things, if the intake is restricted the exhaust gas temp will increase, boost will be lower and smoke will be plentiful 

On older coolpowered Macks 20 psi is the max boost, I  understand that it isnt that uncommon for modern trucks to make 40 regularly 

As much as it pain me to say this, and it really does pain me to say this, 2008 isnt modern, phew I cant believe 2008 isnt modern

Anyway what sort of maxmium boost would be expected from this motor ?

Paul

Looking like the classy ride it always wanted to be 😂😂😂😂😂

The ute/ pick up is looking good as well 

Paul

I have often wondered why IH didn't put their Neuss diesel in these, particularly in Australia as the Neuss had and still has a pretty good name

Would of been a good fit and around the same power as the 345

Not many Scouts left out here now and those that are about are worth good money these days

Looks like a lotta fun was had in your Scouts

Paul

I have seen amazingly bad spark plug leads on farm tractors, a bit of bare fencing wire made up a few inches on one lead, didnt miss or ark across

Thinking the voltages are a lot lower on older gear

I think these will need to be replaced with solid core leads or it wont work right but probably wrong there

Paul 

That's a good result

So the next things I have learnt that effect boost are a squashed exhaust or a restricted air intake

I know when I re-bearinged my tip turbine it added a couple pounds of boost 

Little bits help

Maybe check if a intake rubber connection is collapsing in or gone real soft 

Paul 

I guess it depends on what you are wanting the tray for

Most working trucks want as much tray as is available 

But if you are planning using it as a run about fun machine then I would think something fairly short so its easy to park

Paul

1 hour ago, h67st said:

For a truck to go 50 years on Aussie roads, that's pretty good!

And even more so when I  consider the size of the loads it would of hauled most of its life 

Paul 

19 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I would think if it had blow by your gunna start to start to make boost but I really dont know about 

Paul

That makes no sense at all Paul yah clown 

What I think I was trying to say was

If you got plenty of blow by then your gunna struggle to make big boost

Anyway, enough from me 

Paul 

I would think if it had blow by your gunna start to start to make boost but I really dont know about 

Paul

A lot will depend on how much load and what revs your at

I would expect maximum boost at the cross over between maximum HP and maximum torque under full load with a big long hard pull

Paul

Same questions I always ask

When the boost stops increasing are you making smoke

If your making smoke you probably have a air leak or something not working right in the intake

If you are not making smoke a lack of fuel is the problem 

Paul

New to me

Paul 

Struth send me your shoe size and I'll send you a pair of Blundstones

Tiz what most working men wear in Australia 

Paul 

Time to skip all the guess work, you have a fuel leak, nothing more complex than that

So as I have said many times, get some old inner tube, a couple of big flat washers, a air fitting to match the compressor in your shop, a fitting to screw onto the air line fitting, and a hose clamp big enough to fit over the filler cap

Cut the inner tube big enough to cover the filler and go down the sides a bit

Put a hole in the middle of the inner tube, air-washer-inner tube-washer and another fitting to clamp all of these together

Then pop the inner tube over the filler neck, and some air pressure, not a lot, wind the regulator down as low as it goes on the shop compressor 

Then search for the wet spot, by the sounds of it, it's gunna be easy to find 

Hope thisis of some help

This isnt a lift pump or filter or anything else, this is a bad fuel leak

Paul

I reckon they are both pretty bullet proof 

Paul 

Did you coat the inside of the tank to stop any oil seeping thru, I find these tanks are always wet and dusty unless this done

I have never done it myself, tanks I have that are coated are always nice and clean and those that arent are always dirty

Paul 

First things first, when your trying to start it does it have smoke coming out the exhaust ?

If it has smoke and wont start you have fuel and prime isnt your problem 

If you dont have smoke you have a leak 

Cant give anymore help until we get the basics sorted first 

Paul 

On 6/28/2022 at 4:17 AM, Burmy said:

I wish I woulda found that truck first ha! If that has a 300 motor, is it a ENDT or a E6. Don't ENDT's only go up to 285hp from factory? I would want to change the tranny on that truck and get rid of the front pizza cutter steers, those tires will sink on most of my jobsites! 

All of these motots you mention are E6 motors 

285 is a coolpowered  Maxidyne 2 valve

300 is a Maxidyne none coolpowered with the intercooler In front of the radiator and was a 4 valve

350 is a Thermodyne none coolpowered with the intercooler in front of the radiator and was a 4 valve

300 can also be a Thermodyne coolpowered motor that is a 2 valve or maybe a 4 valve depending on the era

Can also have a 350 coolpower that is series cooled with 2 valveheads 

There is quite a long list of options, I have only scratched the surface here

The coolpowered motor was a game changer in the industry for many years and really set Mack up as the leaders for a long time 

It is important to understand the differences when shopping for a truck as the sales man will always quote the higher value on power when selling a secong hand truck

Even if you have a really good understanding I doubt anyone can tell what the pump is set to by looking 

Paul

Dunno about on your side of the world but over here the chassis number is used for identification 

In Australia it is punched into the RHS rail behind the first drive axle 

Probably of no help but its a start

Paul