-
Posts
6,982 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
88
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Blogs
BMT Wiki
Collections
Store
Posts posted by mrsmackpaul
-
-
Totally open to correction on this
I believe this motor is still a Thermodyne
Econodyne was a 4 valve chassis mount intercooled motor
It may also depend on the part of the world each of us is from as to what we call them
Paul
-
2 hours ago, Gravelguy413 said:
Can this engine be swapped in place of an e7 and just remove the tip turbine set up and plumb the existing chassis mount charge air into its intake ?
I dunno why you would unless there is some drama with what you have
It wont give anymore power or anything like that
The old tip turbine is pretty proven and reliable
Unless I have missed part of the story here
Or are you looking at buying a motor like this from a truck and fitting it into a different truck ?
Paul
-
And I dont think two valve or four valve made much difference if any to the torque quoted by Mack
4 valves were more efficient and gave better fuel economy
Paul
-
1 hour ago, BOBWhite said:
This part of your picture show a coolpowered 350
Series intercooled tip turbine motor
Thats a good page of information you sharex there Bob, thank you
Paul
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, 67RModel said:
Also, the original Maxidyne trucks from say 1966-1972 have two as well. However, the lower one is open ended under the hood. I assume so the intake air stream is partially warm. These trucks didn't have charge air coolers so I don't know why they did that but they did......
The original Maxidyne's only had the 1 intake tube in Australia
It wasnt until the coolpower motor came along that two intake tubes were needed, however in Australia the second intakecame from a second aircleaner for the turbine and the other aircleaner was for the motor intake
Paul
-
Welcome to the forum RoadRanger
A interesting life behind the wheel
Paul
-
Is that a train or a tram, think you blokes call them trolley cars
Mack looks tiny in front of it
Paul
-
Mrs Mack is very slowly in between this atrocious weather getting sorted, she never had that much wrong but I started fixing one thing and noticed something else not right and so on
A bit like the little old lady that swallowed a fly, well I hope I dont have to swallow that horse lol
To make things right is lot harder than to just get them going sometimes
Paul
-
1
-
-
Even in Australia the same deal with logging on
Joey I can tell you I am sure glad I live in Australia with our health care and not the US with yours
Paul
-
From what I know and everyone knows thats two tenths of SFA the rails need to be fully seperated to clean the rust out fully to allow them to close up
Apparently they allmost always spring back into shape when this is done
So sadly I think you need to go all the way to get the result your chasing
I have never done this and am only passing on what else I have seen or been told
Get your self a 3/4 cordless rattle gun and get into it I guess
Paul
-
1
-
-
Hmmmmmm
Hope it all works out for you Joey
Paul
-
Second book is called "Fifty Shadeds of Tarmac"
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/27427571-fifty-shades-of-tarmac
Now me been me and been very different, I contacted the Andy MacLean direct and paid him so he got all the money and not the likes of Amazon etc
Book turned up with a signed note inside
That is the book KS shared, "Me and my Mack"
You jokers should tell the chief cook and bottle washer and you might one for your chrissy stocking
Paul
-
Well my 20 cents worth which is hardly worth 2 cents tells me if it was mine I would fill the bores with diesel and a little bit of petrol (gas for yanks) drop a rag in it and set the bores on fire until they burn out
This heats the bore and hopefully allows some possom piss or diesel or what ever to get down past the piston to the rings
I would do this a few times until I can see some results
Then maybe try budging it a bit
Drop the sump and see if you can shift any loose pistons up
Probably only the ones TDC, may need a jack on the floor with a block of wood on the rod
Dunno the more you can get moving before going crazy means the less strain on everything
Anyhow thats what I would be doing
Nice and gentle is the way to save money
No swinging big sledge hammers belting the crap out of things
One slip and you can really make some giant steps in the wrong direction
Paul
-
It's a good read, theres a secobd book from the same author
30 day round trip in a new F model Mack
Field of Dreams
Paul
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, fjh said:
A 285 is strictly Air to Air cooled charge air! I beleive !
I would agree with this
Paul
-
If you keep on just poking along like you are you might be surprised at just what can be achieved with out spending bugger all
Nice and steady, you may get away with no sleeves or pistons or maybe you will need just one or two
Paul
-
1
-
-
We nerd KS to provide some info on this, dunno how big that back is at but huge is a fare guess
Looks like a Alsakan Freight lines truck, or that style of truck
Paul
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
7 hours ago, Joey Mack said:Just curious, are they going to replace your ruined underware?? jojo
They would probably still be peeling my fingers off the steering wheel lol
Paul
-
1
-
2
-
12 hours ago, BOBWhite said:
Are these dry sleeve or wet sleeve motors? And if they do pop out why could't you just reseal it and pop them back in? You can check the condition of the cylinders and check for cavitation if they're out.
Also do Mack's have problems with dropping or sinking liners like Cats do? I'd imagine sleeve shims would not be easy to find for one of these.
If someone is putting a lot of force on a crank to move a seized engine then pushing as sleeve out is well with in a possibility
Then as Joey suggested these are a press fit or freeze and get back
This is all gunna be a challenge with a pistion still stuck in a sleeve
Anyway thats how I would deal with it
Paul
-
Very good, please feel free to share any photos or memories
Paul
-
- Popular Post
Not a lot to add but interesting
-
2
-
1
-
1 hour ago, Hans Remmers said:
Looks like the box was run with bolts loose and then the inners broke off in the housing or pulled out
I reckon your right, this isnt as easy to notice if you dont know we're to look
The bolts towards the center of the camel back I doubt anyone can easily see from walking around doing a pre trip inspection
So depending on how the conversation went with mechanic I can sort of understand how this could all unfold quite easily
Gotta remember the mechanic can only goes on what is described to him and the driver can only describe as best as they can
I dunno we need to try to not be to critical after the event
Bloody lucky everthing survived the ass puckering adventure at 65 MPH I reckon, I know I would of had white knuckles pulling the truck up
Anyway I'm sure all involved are well on the way to getting things sorted now
C4Ed I'm judge you the truck or anything else just chucking some thoughts about
A lot of the people on here are really experienced in all facets of Macks so dont judge them to hard as they can only call it like they see it
Paul
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Once you yank the heads, before trying to turn the motor make sure you clamp the sleeves in properly other wise even when you get this free your gunna enter the world of clusterfuckerie with a masters degree
If you accidentally move the sleeves you will turn from adventure to a in frame rebuild quicker than you can say "bugger me"
Anyway, it's all good fun and adventure so far
Paul
-
4
-
2
-
Well this is good news, now that's gumna sound strange
But let me explain, you stopped forcing it before you went to far and broke something
Mouse piss etc should be of concern, or at least it would be to me, must be some valves open either fully or partly
How did these mice find their way into your motor ?
Paul
-
1
-

Shop Talk
in Odds and Ends
Posted
A Foden in Yanky land, surely a sin 🤔 lol
Struggle to even Fodens in Australia, NewZealand still has a few though
Paul