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Go around and tighten ALL the hose clamps on the charge air and compressor inlet pipes

Cause it costs them money! I guess!

Thanx for the UPDATE  post MP  Hope Your Correct ! The injector cup issue is still in the mix in my opinion if they are using cam contact  to build pressure  at least now it will only be three injector cups to fuss over!

and the separate  internal Wiring is a true bonus!  However  Time will tell!

Hopefully we will have something to be proud of once again! MAYBE!?

The 12 sp held up behind Freakin Cranked up V8 No problem in that sense it would be fine in my opinion  how ever the mount on the engine would put extra stress on the trans  bellhousing area that might be an issue!

If your looking for more gears you have the option of a Aux trans but you need to be carefull the engine ECU needs to be tweaked to accept the use of the extra gears!

Beneath the oil cooler there is a funny looking hose we call it the elephant hose that hose has a screen in it drain the coolant and check that screen it may b plugged!

Im an  old school guy Give me camel back any day Over any air or block set up How ever I ain-t driving it I just work on the stuff! 

If it is exhibiting the long crank times and the normal injector cup symptoms definitely go there, the  last one we had like this was the old style coolant cooled 7th injector leaked coolant over a long period of time it biult up powder from the coolant as well on the dpf 

Also if you have the under hood inlet air flap valve check that its not stuck open!

So just and update to my comment, after taring into the dpf we found residue from coolant the (unit has also poor starting symptoms)

(Injector cups)  AGAIN forth set for the unit  this is the first unit to clog up the dpf with coolant from an injector cup issue for us however Im sure there  are more out there so beware yet another symptom of the ongoing injector cup battle!

That collapses is common ! caused by turbo lag however they should suck in a bit then inflate , you should be sure the filters are clean and installed correctly and yup that coolers a good suspect!

Just the raydan not the one you have pictured there as I I said the air ride front is quite complex However the ride quality is good a bit on  the sqishy side As with any air ride the shocks have to be kepted up on !We have sold mixers a few  with the raydan  and most often the AMS40T2 !

Both work OK from a customer stand point Usually A simard install

If I was doing it I would go for spings  stability wise  I think having a dump on total air you would feel horribly tippy when dumping Mixers dont have 20 feet of material in the air.

I'm not hot on the raydan front like the spring set up better the front bag set up is too tecky

Use the kiss theory  works best !

We have dozens of raydan here it's ok real fussy to set the ride height  raydan both ends? As with almost any dump you'll need to dump the bags to get the load off. We have a half dozen twinsteer mixers with it here no complaints.

two regens and a crystal sub  burn will turn the light off ( IF ) you repaired the problem And  IF you can get it to regen  we got one right now that wont regen makes to much inlet  heat and shuts down We are suspecting The temp probe is toast or  the top of the cat is plugged!

Will find out today I hate this shit!

Check the turbo!

Awesome site truck With out seeing it in person real hard to give decent advice It  either has 44 or 55 rears by the look of it Can't make out the rear suspension Camel back I assume I also assume It has a 237m with 6 sp trans !   

I sure wouldn't part it out! You got good history there!

I'm proud of you buddy fly in the face adversity !

7 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

We actually have done more bull gear failures on Detroit 60 series than Macks. However at least the gears on the Detroit are in the front and not the back.  One of the downfalls of the over head cam engine . I miss the E-Tech's. LOL

ME TO !  NOT LOL!  For the most part it was fixable! MP not so much! One thing about it it will keep the younger folks busy for years to come !  Bandaids and patches!

Guess its down to acceptable now? In there eyes!

So the question now Is the engine still compliant or are we doing the VW thing! ? Kidding the EPA!

simply a crap shoot ! It dosent happen that often however How often is to often  to them?  Its still happening ! so are they going to fix it?  If it fails after warranty its not their problem! 

Yup we got a  newer Mp 7 and an 14 mp8 in the shop same deal we did an mp10 last year Also had an Mp8 fail after the pin Bandaid  job the nut broke! makes one wonder how many failures is acceptable to these people before they repair stuff properly! Kinda like the injector  Cup Fiasco !Except WAY MORE expensive!

If your pulling 38 be happy thats good boost  for that engine as pro mentioned if the ecu were able to see what the engine was truely making it would have derated at 33! A good running AC engine with VGT is making that kind of boost your right in the Zone!

Rev the engine  right up a couple of times the vanes sometimes stick!

When you take the clutch back out then check to see the bolt heads weren't hitting the springs I have had to remove the washers to make things work on occasion As the truck shop mentioned Be sure your gap is correct! how ever if its a mack trans its very hard to see around the clutch fork!

We are assuming you are working with a NON solo Clutch!????

Good luck with it!

Post what you find!

There is a possiblity that the separater pins on the internidate plate are not even ! take a 1/4 inch punch and on each preasure plate mounting lug there is a hole put the punch in the hole and tap on it turn the engine and tap on each one till you have done all 4 and see if this repairs the issue!

Also if you had the flywheel surfaced the springs on the dapper hub can hit the bolt heads of the crank if to much was removed as well as if you were handed the wrong clutch the damper some damper hubs DON'T fit the flywheel cut out!

Just some stuff Ive been bitten by!