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It could be the AC switch and The solenoids are also prone to failure even new out of the box we have had a rash of bad ones lately Unplug the green AC switch and wait a minute or so  if the fan shuts down that could b your problem.  

You have to do the cam swap to get the benefit power your doing away with the wasted fuel and some of the turbo lag ,the pre egr manifold will help a tad but not much

plugged tank vent

If I remember corectly its in the little  fuse box under the hood Drivers side!

Check the ecu fuse !  Did it light the either off? If not Did they have the front cover off!? Is it in time?

Half fuel is normal! is your oil level rising ? the fuel transfer pump may be in its way out!

WE have pulled  almost 500 hp out of the little Mack  E7 12 litre for years  don't see why ya cant get 600 from a 13 litre! Other than the fact its a Volvo engine Not a Mack! The sales on the  Titan were quite low  However they need to offer the 16 litre in one of the other models to keep up. it needs to be an option There Are places here in BC were HP demand is high !  My opinion!

They are  systematically  shrinking  MACK  market share,  Obvious where this is going! The Vocational sector should  have been left to the MACK branded units!

Not that these Volvo people listen to anyone!

Is the clutch brake set where its supposed  to be? Right at the floor!! that is the most important first step that is sum times missed! 

If you set the gap and  the brake is not set correctly the angle springs can be at the wrong angle to grip properly ! Depending on which clutch is in there! This is can be common Issue with an easy pedal clutch if not adjusted correctly! An over adjusted easy pedal may slip!

Like 204 said It so it sounds like the clutch is simply worn out springs or lining rolling around inside!

Do you have teck tool can you watch the temps the scr needs good heat to operate! Soot level good?  Good preasure on the doser? All sorts of things can cause this stuff to happen Even a turbo issue , are you in a cold climate? if the heater stops working it will cause the scr  not to work and wouldn't  tell you why we ran in to this last week! I think Mackpro has  got a good handle on this stuff He may chime in here shortly There are several guys here That may point you in the right direction  I am not a guru on this crap!

We have yet to see catylist failure   Chances are you have build up of  crystal at the inlet to the def cat box very common! pull it apart and look

Drive shaft and stick 

Ya But the bull gear job aint cheap add that to the rebuild you may just as well do the drop in !

48 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

People always forget about the bullgears/timing gears on a MP. That's why I push the Mack Reman engine when overhaul or major engine failure occurs. Why spend 20K on an overhaul when a year later your bull gear goes out and your screwed again. Drop in the reman and it's all covered! Downfall is it's 30-35K  

your 285 Air to air will work just fine in my opinion they took it right up to 315 with that set up!

What HP Is your engine? the water over air Usually came with a 350! Sorry Can't remember how it was plumbed!  I Don't really see the benefit anyway!

What HP Is your engine? the water over air Usually came with a 350! Sorry Can't remember how it was plumbed!  I Don't really see the benefit anyway!

That year of engine would simply have a throttle and dash switch  IS it dynatard or JAKE ? The original dynatard  setup would work best for this  it is  normally activated by engine RPM!

Gear down would be how ever the trany is regulated .

What year

Its dynatard A jake would have a spacer between the valve cover and the head!

Drill it and drive a roll pin in! make sure your not to close one of the nut drive lugs  when you drill and it will be fine.close it back up

 You would be going backwards with mp 10  Check PAI For A kit decent pricing on a full kit!

There have been some issues with the engine brake Valve from time to time!

5 hours ago, mcratchet1 said:

yes def tank is full, dealership is 100 miles away will it effect anything with the speed sensor unhooked? but im trying hard to avoid the dealership

Unfortunately chances are the def is not injecting properly and needs repair anyway its only a matter of time that the crystal build up will choke off the exhaust anyway ! if the speed sensor disconnect works bite the bullet and get it in there!

Def tank full ??? If the truck is standard try unpluging the speed pu on the trans this will get you to the dealer a little faster 5 mph it  is a bit ridiculous they have a derate set so low ! and dangerous if your on a freeway!