Freightrain
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Everything posted by Freightrain
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I went to website and looked around. Seems legit? They are in Florida.
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Wow, goes to show that some places will gouge you for every cent!! Pays to shop around. Thanks Joey, I will spend that kind of money. I see a difference in part number 6400 and 6435. Wonder what this is about?
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Yikes!! It is now $2100. https://www.freedomracing.com/pt-6435-liner-puller-tool.html Definitely will be fabbing something on my own. Yes, work at a full outfitted machine shop. I can build anything. I only have this one engine to rebuild so, again, no sense in buying the tool. No one will buy it used to recoup my expenses. Did I read that these dry liners will slip out once they move a few inches(like a wet liner)? Or do they come out tight the whole way(I figure).
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I had thought of making my own puller from round disc at bottom, a tall ring on top and all thread to pull up on disc. I buy tools I don't need but for a one time job, $600 is a bit steep.
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You're bulking up my post count....😂 Pretty soon I'll be at 91 pages like your DM thread.....😉 I'm going to try to weld on a liner to see if I can get one to move. Hopefully this weekend? Once they are out I can order a kit!
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Just a 5 spd? Did that for shifting I suppose plus a touch more road speed.
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Marriage
Freightrain replied to Vladislav's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Chassis looks fantastic Vlad! I love restorations like this. I will never have anything that nice. -
Mack B873sx restoration
Freightrain replied to hicrop10's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I only had $750 each for custom alum tanks. Granted that was a few years back. 6-7 yrs? -
Mack B873sx restoration
Freightrain replied to hicrop10's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I patched up my B tanks a few times. Drained it down and tipped it up so fuel was away from step area that needed patched. Ran a piece of 16 ga and welded it solid. Didn't blow myself up. Diesel fumes area as explosive as gas. I finally gave up patching and ordered new aluminum tanks. Didn't I see Watts offering new steel tanks? Very pricey. -
They are turning the big CAT motors like 5000 rpm now. Getting 2-3000 HP. Valve float is a big deal. Those huge valves need control. I suppose the bottom end is not really an issue with staying bolted together. Of course when they do break....it is spectacular!
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He says never a problem. Never had one come apart on him. I was amazed. I want to see it run this summer. He is doing headwork, havig hard time finding someone to put fire ring back in heads. I asked my motor shop and he just cringed. They aren't set up for big truck stuff. I did find the roll pin on the pump coupler.
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Well, I just messaged my "new" FB friend that is local that pulls an old R model with a 237 and he is giving me insight. Yes, pump only installs one way but he will come down and time it for me. He turns that stock 285(less intercooler) 3400 rpm. It runs really well for a little motor. Keeps the local CAT guys wondering.
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So taking the three bolts out will keep it in time, per say. As long as I don't rotate the crank? I know there are timing marks on the gears behind the cover. I cleaned up most of the dirt and will be pulling the main cover. There is more to reassembly, as I have skimmed my manual a few times. The manuals I have are for 675-676 motors. I suppose the basics are the same for assembly?
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I got balancer off. No worries about beating it. Someone else already did. Couple good wallop marks on the back side. Balancer is red, so it came from something else. Little heat,PB, and casual persuasion and the pulley was loose, then balancer came off. If they had just put two tapped holes it would be painless. Engineers....ugh.
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No pins. You can see the color differences in the three parts so someone has been into it. The three bolts into drive looks solid,the four on pump look like they may "swivel"? Should I just pull front cover plate to see gears?
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Motor on floor. Bolts out😉. I won't beat on it. Will try rotating it on hub first.
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Yes, there is a spacer about 3-4" thick? So remove spacer with pump or pump from spacer?
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Two variants of tip turbine. Air only and air and water. I would assume the water is higher HP rating.
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Thanks guys. Kinda figured I just knocked it off or I would have a tool from the last time. I'll get to spraying it with oil now. Terry, yes, it bolts to a flange that slips onto crank. I remember warming it up in the oven to get it to slip on easily. I'm considering removing the inj. pump so I can regasket the side covers. How bad is it to get it back correctly? Timed? Etc?
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What is the common way to get the balancer off the front of crank? No holes to use for puller. Get a real big one and grab around the outside? I don't remember what I did to the 237 when I removed it and swapped my 673?
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I remember a video from way back showing a big power KW getting out run by a Mack up a hill in Australia . The KW driver was like WTH! I tried searching for it but never find it.
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Gold Bulldog
Freightrain replied to Brian L Blaylock's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
When I met Karen 20 yrs ago, they still used their rotary phone in the dining room as their main phone. I bought her a cordless phone so she could go sit on the couch and be comfortable talking on the phone instead of standing in the corner! 😆 -
Dang. Fixable but will take some Norm Abram skills. I have replaced the side door of my trailer once already and it is getting rotten again. I need to seal the wood(or use cedar) as water gets behind the aluminum sheeting. It is a day project once I get the wood cut(non std dimensional wood). If the builders would just use the right wood you wouldn't have rot issues.
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It is, just fuel and timing is different. The "673" denotes a Thermodyne(multi gear trans) and the 675/676 was Maxidyne(5spd).
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Yup, from what I have read.
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