Freightrain

Little update. I found a wrench to get oil filter housing off 237 without any fuss. Happen to have an offset box end wrench that just fit. I got twin filter mounted and painted with motor. I have turbo feed line 1/2 installed but will wait to cut other end to length until after I get valve covers fitted and make sure line is correct length. My package showed up from Kevin with my offset plate for tip turbine along with dog leg rubber feed hose. I did find that these valve covers don't clear the mounting bolts for rockers(on top of Jake's). I think my 237s don't have this reinforcement plate under mounting holes. Or maybe it is just because I don't have gaskets in place yet? It's close, so maybe those will shim covers up enough. Will check into that. EDIT: with two gaskets it looks like it just clears. Likely just like the 237 was. I didn't got out and look at 237 covers. I am painting pieces and mocking up. Very close to getting intake pieces in for good. Kevin sent me a template to mark frame for R power steering box. Something else to get working on. Hoping to maybe prime this up by next weekend. I have filters and oil for it. Once I get turbo feed line on, it is ready.

Oh ya, that is an entire tear down deal. Have you had the lid off?

Good question. It doesn't do it every time? Only under a "heavy" load of acceleration or even if you just take off easy? Could be a detent ball on the shift rail or maybe the sliding clutch on the main shaft.

This is all the old Mack manuals show. No other details, just specs for bearings and such. I rebuilt my Triplex using similar picture and the instructions in the book. I made three videos showing the process. I didn't mess with the covers as they were not an issue.

No idea what it came from, just a stationary power unit. Yes guy said it had air/hyd? clutch and it was locked in one gear. Friend sent me his Eaton part number S2130 that he used in his autocar. Say it is a nice short throw in his little cab.

Ya, but I also have had this brief conversation before about certain models being taller which would have a shorter throw(ratio) and that would help as Mark notes. I wonder if something from like a new Western Star would help? Those cabs are TALL!

I need a tower. I hear there are variations in height and if I get a tall one, it will have a short throw and be good for my set up because I will cut it to fit.

It is a new Bell housing.

I posted in my other post but figured I would show it here also. All done.

All done. Bit rough getting the inner snap ring in them getting bearing push back down while holding out on input shaft. Then outer snap ring is just a touch too large for my pliers so I had to use a little piece of 3/16 steel I had lying around to shim it out enough to open the ring to fit. Finally got it assembled and clutch brake installed. Total lack of instructions but does matter which way it goes on? Bigger side on first? Or towards throw out bearing? This one is the torque limiting design. Thanks again for the input(pun) to get me to do this. Glad I did.

I have another friend that has a big torque wrench. I borrowed it years ago when I replaced the rear springs in the truck before I stretched it and out air ride in it.

Thanks for reminding me. I may just pick one up for that price. Looks like it may beep or show a preset number you want to reach? The multiplier allows you to pull 100# and exert 700#. The digital versions makes you pull the 700# yourself.

Oh, oops. I posted the removal of input in the 300 thread. Easy peasy.....

Won't reach far enough. Once I get the template and holes drilled it won't be such an ordeal just shoving it in the hole. If I had to hold it for a long time I would be in trouble. A bit of progress tonight after dinner with Karen. I got ambitious to see if I could get the input out of the transmission. Yup. Thanks all for the push to just try and knock it apart without any fancy tools. I watched a YouTube video of a guy doing it like mentioned. Few smacks with a hammer and it all popped apart. Worse part was getting snap ring off the front. Had to mangle it but a new one comes in the kit. Googled kits and found local Pete dealer has Eaton kit for $260. I will be getting that tomorrow after work. Pt 2468 has everything and more then I need. https://ohiopeterbilt.com/products/fuller-kit-clutch-install Question for the masses: The plastic 3/16" fuel return line. Mack part only? It is reinforced plastic but only slips on fittings, no ferrel or clamps. Mine is pretty rough and needs replaced. I did get the crank hub installed the other night and balancer is on. Just need bigger torque wrench to get to 300ft/lb. Buddies only goes 250#.

Gravel drive so no crane out there either. Going to have to man handle it.

I have no room for a crane around my truck.... The stall is only as big as the truck.

No big updates this week. Some painting of parts, made a few new small #4 lines for oil and coolant. My reman steering box showed up yesterday. Jeez that thing is HEAVY!! Kevin All is sending me a care package with template to drill frame for new box. That along with Jake pieces for Tip turbine. I did install the starter last night so it is ready to spin up. A friend gave me 10 gal of Cat oil(says better then Rotella for zinc) that I will be using. I need to get twin filter housing off the 237 before I can prime it up. I did get the race car all back together also. Trans back in, oil changed and primed up. Ready for another season after I donate bit of welding on the back end. Seems all the wheel stands have been working on the ladder bar front cross member and I saw a couple small cracks at a couple joints. Not uncommon actually but it has been a few years since I needed to address it. I also have set up my friend to use his service truck to do my install. Told him by end of March I hope to be ready to set it in the chassis. I need to start collecting material to build a custom lift cradle.

Ya, well there's your problem. Giving a damn about your companies property. So few, so far apart. I deal with that shit at my shop. I get in any vehicle and it looks like a 3 yr lived in it for a week. I have spent more of my own money on car washes then any have spent on their own vehicle since they were born. It's call Pride.

It gets the bearing out of the way so you can wiggle the input shaft out. I've watched YouTube videos of that process. For the money I may just swap the bearing and input shaft just so they are new. Like you say, it's right here in front of me.

At this point $70 Amazon pricing isn't bad. Lord knows I have wasted more on less.

The gasket is new, so likely wouldn't hurt it getting it back apart. Now I know how to get oil halo out. The kits I found have a gasket included. Not bad $220 for everything. If it is the right kit. I looked up Eaton website and this is what it called for a 18912a. https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/rt-series-eaton-fuller-transmission-clutch-install-kit-for-2-input-replaces-part-k-2468/

Double clutching? WTH is that.... 😆 I'm either starting out or not near the clutch pedal.

The splines are worn a bit. It takes "special" tools to replace it or I would get one. Or I will have to buy more $400 tools for one time use...🤦

Ok, my transmission didn't have a clutch brake on it because it was from a stationary powerplant and didn't get shifted. Are the brakes pretty generic as for fitment? As long as it is for a 2" shaft it will be okay? I know my input has a groove for the brake to engage.