Dlock13

This is the information I received from my dealer

If anyone has available the frame ratings on a CL700 frame? Or a build sheet etc that would be most helpful. Thanks

Ok. Thank you very much

I have a 1996 Mack E7-454 that I would like to upgrade to the air clutch fan. I'm looking for any help with wiring in the factory engine harness, factory install location for the air solenoid switch. I realize I could get a temp switch and high pressure a/c switch and run it that way. Thanks

When we built our triple frame wrecker chassis we drilled the outer and inner frame rails and tapped it for grease fittings about every 12" or so depending on the location of brackets, suspension hangers, etc.. It has been on the road for 5 years with zero rust build up that we can see between the frame. Once a year we push fresh grease through the rails. On our recent rollback build, out of a 79 R model, I split the rails one side at a time while supporting the cab and engine/ trans. Used Eastwood rust convertor and rust encapsulator then top coated with a good high solids paint. I drilled the outer rails for grease fittings as well. It works great for us.

You can clear up a lot of the rust between the rails by using an air hammer. You'll be surprised how much rust will come out between the rails. Get some good ear and eye protection and have at it.

Actually Henrickson has a very good tech department. I would give them a call and find out what axle brackets you will need part # wise and see if they are already on the suspension. The tracking rod mounting might be another problem, but they should be able to help with that as well.

They frequently build and sell wreckers after a few years of service.

We just went through this with our 454 a little while back. There is some service bulletins from Mack that discuss this. Here are some pointers to start with. The screen at the back of the oil cooler can be clogged up with debris, the water pump seal goes bad and can suck air and cause a coolant pushing condition. The radiator cap can be bad. The air compressor head could be cracked and putting air into the coolant system. Then finally the more expensive problem...cracked heads or blown gaskets. I would first try a new radiator cap if that stops it you got off very cheap. To check if the compressor is putting air into the coolant you can bypass the cooling lines at the compressor and see if it still pushes coolant. CAUTION do not let your engine run too long or the compressor can overheat. The water pump test is just as easy to replace the water pump in my opinion and while you are at it pull the oil cooler, the back end has a screen which might need to be cleaned out. Also a thermostat would be a good thing to do as well. Not a very difficult job. Now if none of these fix your problem you want to check for exhaust gases in the coolant. First remove the fan belts so the water pump can't rotate, remove the thermostat and re-install the housing minus the thermostat, fill the coolant until it is almost to the top of the thermostat housing with the hose removed. Start the engine and look for bubbles or puffing similar to a model train. If there is any evidence of this you will need to start pulling heads. Either a gasket problem or a head cracked between the valves. Hope this helps We weren't so lucky it was a cracked head at #2 cylinder

I wouldn't be jumping head over heels just yet if they are similar to the I shift. They are very expensive to replace. The truck can not be moved if the engine is not running. If by chance your truck were to shut off in traffic it couldn't be dragged to the shoulder without disconnecting the drive shaft or pulling all four axles first. Otherwise the trans gets ruined. Just what we have been told as towers.

Mack Kingpin Adj.pdf

Name: MACK Granite (2003) Date Added: 23 May 2010 - 06:19 PM Owner: Dlock13 Short Description: MACK Granite 60 ton Century wrecker. View Vehicle

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/25-Polished-Pete-Aluminum-Air-Reservoir-Tank-7-Port-/120630705214?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item1c16267c3e http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/34-Polished-Pete-Aluminum-Air-Reservoir-Tank-7-Port-/120630705730?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item1c16267e42

There are some aluminum air tanks listed on ebay in commercial truck parts. I think they were Pete tanks, but they were the type that mount perpendicular to the frame. I think it was Frontier truck parts.

An Eaton/Fuller 9 speed can be changed to a 18 speed or 13 speed with an upgrade kit that is available through Fuller. Got look on their website for the part number.

We installed the GrandRock QP internal mufflers in our 6" exhaust. It has a good sound but not too loud.

I called Borg-Warner and the part# that you are using is the Jacobs Stealth Brake turbo version of my part#. The only difference is an extra sealing groove and o-ring. I can replace the turbo with a model on a Detroit, but I would have to change the air inlet pipe and and to the inter-cooler pipe.

Did you upgrade to the S4 or did your Cl come with that turbo? Also does the E-tech use a VGT type turbo? Just wondering

I have a 96 E7-454 with a S400 turbo and I'm wondering if anyone has ever put a larger turbo on this engine. I've installed 20% over spec injectors and will need to put another turbo on due to the band clamp breaking and partially destroying the fins. I know Rochester Fuel sells a larger turbo kit and so does Northwest Truck, but I noticed you can get the S400 with larger impellers and the new models have what is called extended tip technology. I have found that you can get Borg-Warner turbos now as well. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter or any experience doing so? Thanks

We have an older Black&Decker 3/4" Mag drill and a newer DeWalt annular cutter which uses a mill type bit for drilling. The DeWalt has a base that can be pivoted and fits into spots where a stationary base will not. We used the DeWalt to drill all the holes on the wrecker chassis we built and then reamed the holes for the body bound bolts with the Black&Decker. Get ready to use plenty of cutting oil.

A single axle tow truck can pick more weight without transferring as much weight from your front axle. The difference is your overhang is measured from the center of the rear axle to the underlift/towbar on a single axle whereas a tandem is measured from the center of your tandems your basically adding half the measurement of your axle spread. The single axle runs into problems with being overweight(DOT) on the rear axle and the lack of braking unless you run an auxiliary braking devise. The truth of the matter is you need enough wheelbase to allow you to safely keep 50% of your front axle weight. The formula used to determine the safe towing capacity of your truck is as follows: (1/2 FAW multiplied by your wheelbase) divided by the overhang For example if you have a single axle truck that has 12K lbs on the front axle and the wb is 260" and the overhang is 90" the tow capacity is 17334 lbs Now a tandem axle with the same weights and wheelbase but now the overhang is increased to 116"(half the typical 52" spread is added to the overhang) it drops to 13448 lbs A tow truck is just a big lever and depending on how you set it up whether counter weighting the front end or changing the suspension setup like adding Timbren load boosters or running the air leveling valves on the rear axle allows you to cheat a little bit, but numbers don't lie. The pusher axle allows you to cover your butt at the scale house and gives you some extra braking when needed. Some disadvantages are they can hang you up off road sometimes. It really depends on what you are trying to accomplish with the truck and what your needs are.

Sounds like you possibly needed to go with the flat face rims to gain the necessary clearance?

Hi all. Not sure if I introduced myself properly on this site. My name is Dave and I work for my parents at Lock's Garage, Inc. in Parkton, Maryland. We are towing /recovery company and also run a general service garage. We currently are running two Macks one is a 82 R700 and a 03 RD/Granite. I have 3 more project trucks all Macks. I really enjoy this site and all the knowledge about Macks. Thanks for putting together such a great place to stop by.

Hi all, we have a R400 that has been changed over to a 237 and a 6 speed with Pete air ride and is in really good shape. Matter of fact it was completely restored about 15 years ago and with a lot of projects it never was finished. Originally it was to be a small wrecker, but we were considering putting it together as a large rollback. I also have a 79 DM which also has a 237 and 6 speed with camel back. My question would it be possible to switch the cab and hood and all necessary components from the R400 onto the DM frame? I have lots extra parts in stock and I was wondering if it was possible or not? We have put together some trucks before like the our last project which is a 2003 RD that we morphed into a 306" wb Granite 60 ton wrecker. Any way just wanted some opinions on the subject. Thank you Dave.