doubleclutchinweasel

Some of our trucks had the shifters cut down to various lengths and had the shanks heated and bent in various ways. You really could do a lot to make them easier (or harder) to shift with the shape of the levers.

Thought they looked local!

If all you guys got together and started your own repair service, you could make a fortune!

Those mountains look familiar. Where was that taken?

Thanks to all of you for the kind words! I really appreciate the comments. Sometimes I feel like a total amateur around you guys. So, it's super flattering when I do something y'all like! Thanks again.

Got a cohort that rides Norton 850 Commando. Love those Nortons! I'll dig around and see how much I had in that lift. It wasn't much. I think the 4 trailer jacks were the most expensive part of it.

Oh, crap! You're right!

Folks on here know more than I do. But, I would assume you could change over to an Eaton knob. As long as the air pressure goes where you want it to go, I don't think it matters what the knob looks like. I mean, you just have a range shift and a splitter, right? Shucks, you might could even go old school and separate them into 2 selectors; one on the knob for the splitter and one on the shifter shank for the range!

Welcome, Bill. You've come to the right place. Someone on here will know, if anybody does. That wouldn't be "Bootstrap" Bill Turner, of "Pirates of the Caribbean" fame, would it?

Was it just me, or did everybody feel like we all kinda' adopted Vinny? He sure was hot-and-heavy into those Sidewinders!

Thank you, Sir! Again, coming from you guys, it really means something. Incidentally, that's my Little Boy in that one picture.

Thanks! That actually means a lot coming from you. You are truly one of the "pros" on here!

You know, I HAVE thought about it...

Oh, and the thing I was most pleased with was the ramp holder thingy I built under the trailer. It looks factory. I get more comments on that piece than anything else.

I still have more plans for the trailer. Once wood gets reasonable again! LOL! They used the self-drilling deck screws. Half of them are either way off-center of miss the crossmembers altogether. Plus, there was no need to rip pieces to make them fit. According to my measurements, full boards will fill it up with just the right gaps between them. So, I plan to weld up all their holes, drill holes where they should be, like you gave a $#!^ where you put them, and use carriage bolts in from the top. Already have the bevel washers to use underneath the locknuts. Will make it a lot easier the NEXT time it needs re-floored! Did this on the other (home-built) trailer I have. Works much better, and looks a lot more professional.

And this is my all-purpose trailer. Still a car trailer, but has easily removable pieces to make it a bike hauler. The chocks are attached to cleats on the frame with bolts. No need to crawl under! The center tie-down unbolts to leave a flat deck. The outer ones are welded on. Rear tiedowns are situated on the outer rails and one in the middle. It is attached to a steel plate welded in the frame. There is actually room to do 2 more setups on the rear, if needed. The removable ramp locks in between the regular ramps to give you a good, wide bike ramp. It stores in the pocket behind the right rear wheel. Never know it's there until you need it.

And here is our lift table. Used 4 jacks in the corners. Much cheaper and sturdier than most of the el-cheapo tables.

Not sure if this belongs in here, but... I guess it depends on your definition of "shop". I don't do much heavy truck work now that my Dog went down the road. But, I still do a project now and then. Here are some lifts I made for my and my son's Triumphs. None of the commercial lifts worked very well with this frame design. So, we made a cradle for each one that attaches to a regular bike jack, and bolts to the frame of the bike. Very stable and well balanced.

Maybe this is a good place to revisit the 3 golden rules of troubleshooting. Rule #1: Check the obvious first. Rule #2: When this fails to show anything, go back and check the obvious again in greater detail. Rule #3: Go back and check the last thing you fixed. I'm glad you got this sorted out. And, really glad the new cable was warrantied.

Wind tunnels blew all the "style" off of them...

My 6.7 Cummins has the Aisin automatic and 3.42 gears. Gets 23-24 mpg if I drive like I have any sense. Drops to 19-20 when I pull the trailer and a couple of bikes. Of course, that ain’t a Bobcat or a backhoe!

On that R I had, with the 15-speed RoadRanger, bobtailing, I used 4th, 6th, 8th, and 10th as a "normal" progression. Used whatever it needed when the situation called for it. Personally, I'll take all the gears I can get! Grew up on 5 X 4 Quads, so... That 350 should drag that setup around just fine, though. Like Bob said, you'll likely not do much shifting at all. The most important thing is that it DOES have 2 sticks! It ain't a "real" Mack unless it has 2 sticks! LOL!!!

I'll never forget the discussion about shifting the 5-speed Maxitorques. I think somebody on here posted the old adage. "Short shift 1-4 as quickly as you can. Wind it up to 2,100 in 4th. Pull it into neutral. Eat a sandwich. Then slip it into 5th." That about summed up the 4-5 shift! I hated driving those. The engines were great, but the trans drove me nuts. I was just too hyper, I guess. Did drive a 237 with a 10-speed RoadRanger behind it once. That one was a joy.

Well, that should take care of it regardless!

True!