Johnny93 Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 I have a 2000 model CH613 with a E7 460 that is using 2-3 gallons of coolant a day. It doesn’t leak a drop and isn’t making oil. Looks like it is blowing straight steam out of the blow-by tube. Oil isn’t milky but if you pull the oil fill plug it has a greenish sludge and the valve cover has a green film. I’m thinking leaky liner but are there any other possibilities? Bad air compressor (tanks are dry) bad oil cooler? Bad head gasket (does not pressurize the coolant system or run hot) anything else to check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 5 minutes ago, Johnny93 said: I have a 2000 model CH613 with a E7 460 that is using 2-3 gallons of coolant a day. It doesn’t leak a drop and isn’t making oil. Looks like it is blowing straight steam out of the blow-by tube. Oil isn’t milky but if you pull the oil fill plug it has a greenish sludge and the valve cover has a green film. I’m thinking leaky liner but are there any other possibilities? Bad air compressor (tanks are dry) bad oil cooler? Bad head gasket (does not pressurize the coolant system or run hot) anything else to check? Oil cooler possible! pull the oil pan and pressurize the system it will tell you where your At! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny93 Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 3 minutes ago, fjh said: Oil cooler possible! pull the oil pan and pressurize the system it will tell you where your At! What signs will I get when pulling pan and valve covers and pressurizing the coolant system if it is the oil cooler? What should I look for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 2 minutes ago, Johnny93 said: What signs will I get when pulling pan and valve covers and pressurizing the coolant system if it is the oil cooler? What should I look for? you will see where the coolant is oozing from with the pan off! Also there are plugs in the head between the rockers that can leak check there first but usually its a liner or oil cooler if this showed up quickly both will show up with the pan off! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 On 1/2/2024 at 9:28 AM, Johnny93 said: What signs will I get when pulling pan and valve covers and pressurizing the coolant system if it is the oil cooler? What should I look for? I'm rebuilding a motor right now that dumped all the coolant into the engine oil. The coolant will chemically bond in with the oil and make the oil about as thick as grease, if you get enough coolant mixed in. I have several buckets of this tar that I drained out of the oil pan on the engine. If you truly have coolant in the oil then you need to deal with this ASAP. Pull the pan, pull the connecting rod caps and main caps and inspect the bearing faces. Mine had a LOT of copper base metal showing under the babbit, we caught this engine before things really went south. If you catch it quick enough you can save the crankshaft, camshaft, etc, but it's a major overhaul involving pulling every single piece of engine apart and cleaning, including oil gallery plugs and flushing the oil gallery to wash out every bit of this greasy mix. On the connecting rods, the top bearing shell takes the bulk of the wear, and on the Main bearings the bottom shell takes the bulk of the wear. We're doing piston kits, bearings, cam bushings, on this Case W14 engine. Basically replacing all the soft parts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 Before I pulled my engine, I disconnected the oil cooler and the radiator, plugged the lower radiator line and filled the engine with water to watch it for leaks. Had water coming out the oil pan drain bolt, so we pulled the motor, stripped it down and found the o rings that seal the piston sleeves were toast. Did a thorough visual inspection for cracks in the block due to overheating, then rolled the dice on a $2,000 rebuild kit. Not sure about the ETECH block, but the E7 block supposedly is half dry half wet sleeves. There's a great video on YouTube from the early 90's by Mack that shows rebuilding the E7. The sleeves have a step shoulder halfway down the sleeve that gets Mack RTV silicone, I think in addition to O rings. Think through the possible cross contamination points between the water jacket and the crank case. Cracked heads, head gasket, cracked block, sleeves corroded through, oil cooler... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 current liners omitted o-rings ( around 1999 I think) at the top of the liner, and just uses RTV on the counter bore/shelf.. No o-rings on the liner at the mid-stop. I have some pulled liners in my shop if you want to see a picture of a current liner. If you get to the point where you think you will pull liners, get back with us.. I take pictures of what I do and save them for threads like this one.. Jojo 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 Keep us posted on what you find, helpful for us E7 owners down the line! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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