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First time my B-61 has made air since 1999:


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New wet tank. I want to ensure all tanks are good before installing under the truck. This one is new in 2000 but never installed and shows the inlet check valve holding the pressure back for the past two days. It was charged via the Tu-Flow Bendix compressor discharge line of the B-61:

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Charged to 100psi, (indicated) on Thursday afternoon:

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A loss of 10psi over two days is probably acceptable but I can't ascertain where the leak would be with soap bubble solution.

These tanks were less than a year old when the the truck had a cab fire. The rear rear is under my B-61 after total suspension rebuild:

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I suppose R model Mack donor cabs really haven't quite figured out how to properly set on a Peterbilt frame????

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Needing to grab a few fittings from the hardware store to plug openings in the other tanks to evaluate them later.

 

 

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Going to install an air dryer when it goes back together. I have a good AD-9, and an AD-2 both freshly serviced. Also have several replacement cartridges for AD-4 series left over from my rollback/car carrier days.

Which type air dryer is preferred and why?

Thanks,

 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Rob m80

we have Macks on air start th@ hold over 100psi after a month or more

other way to check air tank from leakin

send mum to town with a movie ticket

while she's a way fill the bath with water and submerge the filld air tank n look for a bubble or 2

U may have to sit on the tank to fully submerge the buggr

LOL

cya

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My wife learned long ago that bitching about anything I do falls on deaf ears so she quit with that nonsense. I've rebuilt carburetors, governors, and pumps on the kitchen table and boiled the same castings on the stove. This is the governor for my Hobart engine drive welder:

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She says it "stinks up the whole house" to where I just think it smells more "Natural".  However, I will tell you she really does not like the smell of methylene chloride which excels at cleaning parts not containing rubber.

You are correct in the submerging of an air receiver to check for leaks. I too have seen air start systems hold air for months but they use much higher quality sealing valves than this simple Bendix steel wafer disc style. At the shop I have a 60 gallon oblong galvanized livestock watering tank I use for truck tires and such. It is large enough to submerge about 1/2 of an 11R-24.5 tire into to look for bubbles.

I usually use a soap solution generally marketed towards the HVAC trades as it is very slow to evaporate and readily makes bubbles being sensitive to leakage.

I gotta try the movie ticket trick to get her out of my remaining hair for spell every now and then.....

Thanks,

Edited by Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I really don't know the differences between many of them except the AD-2 which is very tall and thin when compared to the others. I had several AD-4 series on my trucks and those are really the only ones I've messed with meaning routine service. This AD-9 was given to me by a friend whom retired and closed his shop. It is new but several years old.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Rob said:

I really don't know the differences between many of them except the AD-2 which is very tall and thin when compared to the others. I had several AD-4 series on my trucks and those are really the only ones I've messed with meaning routine service. This AD-9 was given to me by a friend whom retired and closed his shop. It is new but several years old.

4 and 9 both work well with a volume of air to accommodate something with air ride and all. The 9's desiccant cartridge just screws into the aluminum base as  opposed to having the plate and 4 allen screws (little easier to change) I'm pretty sure there was something about a valve in the 9 that was engineered with compressors that had their intake from the engines intake on turbocharged engines (? like a E7 pre EGR)  

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Thanks for the explanation. Never have taken this one out of the box but it has it's bracket and electrical plug included for mounting and connecting up. Truck never had a drier in the past and I really never had any problems over the years, (other than tanks rotting out) I drove it, but now with air ride and the ability to be a portable air source for tools, I'd like dry air. I have a new "Sharpe" 606A drier which is the type I used in the shop when operating and they work well as a point of use drier.

Probably overkill with the second drier but I don't like rust in my air tools; some of which are 40+ years old and still work well with the care given them.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Also need to acquire new tank mounting brackets. The originals much like the donor are simple angle steel and are bent/rusted up warranting replacement and the original type mountings will not work with my skirted winch bed. All tanks need to tuck into the frame or be inside of frame rails as the bed has underbody tool boxes and measures out to be a tight fit.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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All tanks I plan to use check good so onto fabricating mounting brackets. I ordered new brake hoses for the front axle in 3/8" size with 1/4" NPT fittings as original. Also have new type "12" brake chambers for the steer but replacement diaphragms too. This is the original size to the front brake axle. Type 30 were on the original drive axle and that is the same size as the replacement(s) but now have spring brakes so type 30/30 chambers. For the rear I'm stepping to 1/2" for all the hose connections that I don't reuse the original type "K" copper. The truck is longer now so some of the original copper line is short, but I don't mind adding additional where needed.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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