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Fuel Pump removal 95’ CH613


Noland

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Hello! I have a 95’ CH613 with an E7 350 engine. It’s leaking oil from around the gasket where the fuel pump bolts to the engine. The fuel pump has to be removed in order to replace the gasket. The only problem I see is the fuel pump is electric and has to be timed with the engine.
 

My questions are:  

If the fuel pump is removed will it jump timing? If so is there a way pin in place so it don’t jump timing? 
 

Is there a special tool needed to time the pump if it does jump time? 
 

Basically does anyone know the procedure to remove and reinstall the pump? And are there any special tools or meters to do so? 
 

Thanks in advance! 
 

Noland 

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Before you remove the pump, the engine should be placed at the appropriate crankshaft degree. The degree in which the engine should be placed will be on the engine data plate. The flywheel will have these marks so you can place the engine to that specific degree. The pump drive gear is removed. The pump can be removed at this point. Clean and install the gasket. Installed the pump. There is a special tool that is placed in the timing event marker bore that will set the pump to the proper position. If you don't have access to the tool, you can position the pump by visually looking for the gear that has a slot in it. Keep rotating the pump until you see it line up with the timing event sensor bore. After that put all back together. When you put the timing event sensor back, put a little silicone on the threads screw it in until it stops. The sensor should screw in very easily. If you have to force it in then the threads are probably damaged. The only way to be absolutely sure is to use the timing tool. I don't have a part number but I do know it is a Kent Moore tool. 

V

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Never tried using a multimeter because we had the tool that Joey has shown. I dont believe it will work because the sensor is a voltage generating sensor. Setting it to read continuity wont do any good and checking if there is a voltage change wont do any good either. The changes in A/C voltage are very small when it passes the gear with the slot in it. 

V

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2 hours ago, Noland said:

Thanks V we’ll try it with fingers crossed without the tool lol thank you very much for your help 

 As mentioned by Vmac Before you pull the pump remove the timing event marker  MAKE Sure you have what looks like a flat blade screw driver tip in the CENTER of the hole where the timing even marker is removed from Make sure the timing mark on the fly wheel is at its timing mark usually 6-8 deg  Static timing depending on model year! (should be on the valve cover) remove the pump seal what you need to seal re install the pump to the  engine with the ESACT specs provided above and it will still be in time! the tool joe has shown there is a luxury not a necessity I have done many of these with out the tool and checked it afterward with the tool and it remained perfectly timed! Good luck!

 

Just sayin  

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13 hours ago, Vmac3 said:

Oil leak I believe.

Joey Mack- there’s a bad oil leak coming from one of the pump mounting bolts. There are two gaskets between the pump and where the pump bolts to the block. We’re assuming the leak is from one the those two gaskets. 

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ok. well just like it was said by "F" and "V".. you can do the repair by visually setting the engine to the correct degree, and looking in the TEM hole to see the timing mark.  Pull the pump and dont turn it or the engine, and you should be fine..mabey take a paint pen and mark timing gear bolt position , by painting around the heads to mark where they are before removal.. Good luck to you, jojo

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