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Stuck Tie Rod Ends:


Rob

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I'm trying to get the tie rods busted loose on my 64 B-61 and not having good success. I've almost beat the "impact spot" flat with an eight pound sledge trying to pop them loose. The axle is an FA-522 with female rod ends that are shot. I'm planning to get them out and go to male threaded ends and probably make the cross tube.

What do you guys do to overcome this dilemma? I've not used heat, (yet) but I'm about to. It's hard enough to even get under the truck, (given my large size frame) let alone work there! If there is not a better reason, I'll have a female cup adapter turned to fit a port o power and put downward force onto the stud while I beat on the spot again.

Thanks,

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Rob, use an air chisel with a blunt ended bit (we have one that flares out to about 1 inch diameter at the "business end")

Apply the air chisel all around the outside circumference of the threaded part of the jammed up tie rod end, while at the same time keeping the threads soaked with PB blaster.

This also works for breaking the tapered stud loose from the steering knuckle arm, just apply the air chisel around the steering knuckle arm where the tapered stud connects, while keeping tension on it with a tie rod end "fork".

Suddenly there will be a bang, and it will be off.

Works for those tapered studs on the rear axle torque rods too.

I've gotten a lot of "hopeless" things unjammed this way without resorting to the "gas wrench", including tie rod ends.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Rob, use an air chisel with a blunt ended bit (we have one that flares out to about 1 inch diameter at the "business end")

Apply the air chisel all around the outside circumference of the threaded part of the jammed up tie rod end, while at the same time keeping the threads soaked with PB blaster.

This also works for breaking the tapered stud loose from the steering knuckle arm, just apply the air chisel around the steering knuckle arm where the tapered stud connects, while keeping tension on it with a tie rod end "fork".

Suddenly there will be a bang, and it will be off.

Works for those tapered studs on the rear axle torque rods too.

I've gotten a lot of "hopeless" things unjammed this way without resorting to the "gas wrench", including tie rod ends.

Hi Herb, I've got my pickel fork in there as far as it can go and it has not moved. I've not tried to hammer around the threads above the taper as I was wanting to keep from damaging the threads at this point. I do not have the replacements as I'm still in the research stage. Once they are out, we can get replacements. I've looked several places and not been able to locate a dimension chart that lists taper large end, small end, and length to go forward with. That is why I need to be a little easy right now.

I'd never thought of trying a "mushroom" head bit in my air hammer. I'll do that yet tonight and let you know.

Thanks,

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Hi Herb, I've got my pickel fork in there as far as it can go and it has not moved. I've not tried to hammer around the threads above the taper as I was wanting to keep from damaging the threads at this point. I do not have the replacements as I'm still in the research stage. Once they are out, we can get replacements. I've looked several places and not been able to locate a dimension chart that lists taper large end, small end, and length to go forward with. That is why I need to be a little easy right now.

I'd never thought of trying a "mushroom" head bit in my air hammer. I'll do that yet tonight and let you know.

Thanks,

Rob

The large end of the taper is wider than the throat to my pickel fork. I'll have to get a larger one the first of the week as this is about par for the way things go for me. It is no wonder I couldn't break it free. I almost absolutely refuse to heat front end parts that will be reused so I'll wait for the correct tool.

Thanks for the help!

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Try using a 10 lb sledge as mass just held against the other (back) side of the tie rod arm while beating with your 8 lb sledge. Works better with a helper holding the 10 lb sledge. This adds mass and keeps the arm from shaking and absorbing the 8 lb blow. The tapered tie rod end will usually pop out with this.

I learned this is a shop 45 years ago. :D

David

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Try using a 10 lb sledge as mass just held against the other (back) side of the tie rod arm while beating with your 8 lb sledge. Works better with a helper holding the 10 lb sledge. This adds mass and keeps the arm from shaking and absorbing the 8 lb blow. The tapered tie rod end will usually pop out with this.

I learned this is a shop 45 years ago. :D

Hi there,

I have done similar to your suggestion in the past and it usually works well on stuck items. I've used two hammers on frt end parts to automobiles and light trucks for years. Nothing gets bent from the force that way.

I don't have anyone around the shop any longer and my wife was busy with other things so I had no help at the time.

I really need to invest in some larger tools as I've never really "geared up" to work on these antiques until now. Had a friend that ran a small fleet of class 6, 7, and 8 trucks but we have parted company, (my choice) that had whatever I needed.

If I can get my daughter to hold the second hammer tomorrow, I'll get them free.

Thanks for your help.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Hi there,

I have done similar to your suggestion in the past and it usually works well on stuck items. I've used two hammers on frt end parts to automobiles and light trucks for years. Nothing gets bent from the force that way.

I don't have anyone around the shop any longer and my wife was busy with other things so I had no help at the time.

I really need to invest in some larger tools as I've never really "geared up" to work on these antiques until now. Had a friend that ran a small fleet of class 6, 7, and 8 trucks but we have parted company, (my choice) that had whatever I needed.

If I can get my daughter to hold the second hammer tomorrow, I'll get them free.

Thanks for your help.

Rob

hey rob ,are you trying to pop the tie rod end off the hub or remove the tie rod end from the tie rod??if your trying to pop the tie rod off the hub can you put a long bar over the top of the tie rod and under the axle and get someone(maybe daughter)to pull down,if possible put 2 jaw pull on the tie rod end and give it heaps,then get that hammer while helper(daughter too pull down as you hit),good luck adrian
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hey rob ,are you trying to pop the tie rod end off the hub or remove the tie rod end from the tie rod??if your trying to pop the tie rod off the hub can you put a long bar over the top of the tie rod and under the axle and get someone(maybe daughter)to pull down,if possible put 2 jaw pull on the tie rod end and give it heaps,then get that hammer while helper(daughter too pull down as you hit),good luck adrian

What about a proper ball joint removing tool? you should be able to get one at Pep boys? if not keep hitting :) mine came off with a 40oz hammer but it took a bit of hitting and was out of the truck.

Grant

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What about a proper ball joint removing tool? you should be able to get one at Pep boys? if not keep hitting :) mine came off with a 40oz hammer but it took a bit of hitting and was out of the truck.

Grant

Hi Grant, I've ordered a couple new pickel forks for the larger stuff I'm now working on. My large fork with 1.125 opening did not have enough of an opening to go around the lower taper and I did not know this until looking very close.

Someone in the past must have really run the retention nuts down with a large impact wrench as the bottom of the retainer nut is "mushroomed out" and the normally flat part of the spindle steering arm in concaved in. I may have to build up the area the nut bears against using a hardened flat washer when the rod end finally separates.

Appreciate all the help so far!

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Hi Grant, I've ordered a couple new pickel forks for the larger stuff I'm now working on. My large fork with 1.125 opening did not have enough of an opening to go around the lower taper and I did not know this until looking very close.

Someone in the past must have really run the retention nuts down with a large impact wrench as the bottom of the retainer nut is "mushroomed out" and the normally flat part of the spindle steering arm in concaved in. I may have to build up the area the nut bears against using a hardened flat washer when the rod end finally separates.

Appreciate all the help so far!

Rob

keep hitting :) could all ways try a bottle jack above it with tpressure on top and give it a good wallop from side. or a scissor jack, put on top of tie rod and under chassis., soak some diesel over it and come back to it the next day. it may be out???

Grant

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