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Understanding Spec Sheet!


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Driveline seems to be specing the u-joints and such...size, strength, etc. Can't tell you off the top of my head, but you can Google 'em and SHOULD be able to find the torque limits, etc for each option you have available. If you can afford stronger components, get 'em...ESPECIALLY if you're going to use the truck to do ACTUAL WORK! Pencil-pushers like to spec the light-weight stuff...which might be OK if you've got 500 trucks and trade 'em in every 2-3 years...but if it is your only truck or you plan on hanging onto it for a while, you don't want those light-weight parts wearing out or breaking on you. The rear axle oil temp gauge is just what it says...a gauge that tells you what the oil temp is in your drive axles. My truck has a temp gauge for the transmission and engine oils, too.

When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!
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yeah, that is the series and type of the driveline, as above get a heavy driveline, the u joints last longer and it wont break, the right hand b -box is the battery box, the axle temp guage is nice if you care to watch em, itll help you know if you have a problem before it gets major, I have always bought with engine oil, trans and axle temp gauges or added them after I got the truck. The gear ratio is going to determine your maximum truck speed, what transmission do you want and what size tires are you going to run? if you make decisions on that you can spec the gearing to get your rpm at highway speeds where you want it, the 4.19 with an eaton transmission and 11R22.5 tires will make it 1612rpm @65 mph, 4.80 would be 1847rpm @ 65mph.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Why buy a Mack if you're gonna put a vendor drive train in it? When I was truck shopping, if it didn't have that gold bulldog on the hood, I wasn't interested. Maybe it's just me, but I just don't see the point in buying a Mack truck unless it's got a Mack engine, Mack transmission, and Mack drive axles...

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When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!
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Why buy a Mack if you're gonna put a vendor drive train in it? When I was truck shopping, if it didn't have that gold bulldog on the hood, I wasn't interested. Maybe it's just me, but I just don't see the point in buying a Mack truck unless it's got a Mack engine, Mack transmission, and Mack drive axles...

I understand, I don't think you can get anything but Spicer or Meritor driveline , I used the eaton trans model since its got a .74OD and the Mack transmissions are higher (.71 or .73) so that is kindof a lowest possible OD trans gear. I would have to get one of three transmissions if I got a new truck, a Mack T310M, a T318LR or an Allison auto, depends on what I was going to do with it, but Mack rears on 44k Camelback with 4.17 or 4.42 gears are a given.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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well i'm going to get in trouble now and not agree with other comments.with a name of mighty fruit trucking i'll guess you haul fruit if that's so I would not get the camel back suspension, as another fruit hauler i'd go neway long travel air ride it does very well off and on road. I'm not for certain on the fuel tanks but I believe what they are saying that you could get a single 66 gal or dual 66gal.fuel tank with or with out balance line shut of valves or as above but 88.gal.option. and not extend beyond rear of cab. I'd go for the isolation valve option if using dual tank set up

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If you don't understand the spec ask the salesman to show you on another truck. Also have them show you the estimated road speed and rpm of the truck and get the gearing set up so you have your peak torque close to your cruise mph. Don't gear it too low there's no reason to run 1800 rpm on the road 1600 is a lot better on fuel and will pull just as good or better depending on engine. I would run 4.17 rears with a low gear mack transmission with .71OD and 42" tall (11r22.5 or lo pro 24.5)tires and closer to 4.34/4.42 rears with 44" tall 11r24.5's.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Go with the 11R22.5's they are freakin cheap compared to the 11R24.5's right now, just gear it right to run with the 22.5's, the 11r22.5's are 42" tall and 11r24.5's are 44" tall so you only get one more inch of ground clearance anyway, with the Allison you will probably want to go with the 4.80 rears, somewhere in that area most are in the 5.02 range with 11R24.5's and an Allison, I would say 4.64 rears with 11R22.5's and an Allison would be about as high as you would want to gear it don't go with the 4.19's. With a 4000RDS (.64OD) and 4.80 rears and 11R22.5 tires you would be running around 1597rpm at 65mph, with a 4500 series(.67OD) you would be closer to 1672rpm, going to 4.64 rears would be 1544 for the 4000 series and 1616 for the 4500 series at 65mph. figure your gearing right the first time so your not unhappy later, remember the 4500 series is a wider range with a lower low the 4000 is a closer ratio so I would probably go witht he 4500 if the price and weight were close to get the wide ratio and gear it to run around 1600rpm at 65mph with 11r22.5's. just my two cents more for ya.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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I would go lower than 4.35 for a dump truck, probably 4.42 if it was me maybe even 4.64, most Granite dumps spec'd out with Allison autos have more along the 5.02 lines but that is a little to steep for much highway use, remember the more gear the better your toque multiplication and the better it will pull, I would bet it would be a turd with a 3.94, doubt it would be too great with a 4.35. I will go by Mack of Nashville tomorrow and see what the gear ratios are in the Allison auto dump chassis they have in stock, I know two around here are 4.64, and one is a 5.02.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Found 5.02 and 4.64 gears available, that's it.

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"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Be 1600rpm @ 65mph with 4.64's and 11R22.5's, 1500@65mph with 4.42's. I don't know what kind ofspeeds your planning on running but remember the lower the axle gears the better it'll do off road and on hills, keep the temps on the torque converter down too. If your dealer is waiting on you to make a gear choice I'd ponder on 4.42 or 4.64, 4.80 seems low and 4.19 seems high. I'd go with a 4.42 and 11R22.5 or low pro 24.5 tires if it was me, tall 24.5's are too freakin expensive now.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Oh the 5.02's were used with MP7's and have a .64OD, the 4.64's were used with MP8's and have .67OD

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Thanks for the info Superdog but my question is there a big difference in the 4.34 & the 4.42? Just trying to understand this! The lower the gear the more crawling power right?

Be 1600rpm @ 65mph with 4.64's and 11R22.5's, 1500@65mph with 4.42's. I don't know what kind ofspeeds your planning on running but remember the lower the axle gears the better it'll do off road and on hills, keep the temps on the torque converter down too. If your dealer is waiting on you to make a gear choice I'd ponder on 4.42 or 4.64, 4.80 seems low and 4.19 seems high. I'd go with a 4.42 and 11R22.5 or low pro 24.5 tires if it was me, tall 24.5's are too freakin expensive now.

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You would barely notice the difference between a 4.34/4.42 only about 40rpm.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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