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Power Divider Repair


bterry
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I'm convinced I have a power divider on the way out, thanks to one of my other trucks and some info on this board. Just a bit of history so you all know, I own 3 Mack trucks (04-CV713 Granite, 05-CV713 Granite, 05-CX613 Vision). Current issue is with the Vision, same symtoms as on the CV713 that I had someone fix before. Also, I ran tires that were worn more on the rear drive axle than on the front - big mistake.

At any rate, I'm thinking of making this repair myself. The last truck cost me $834.84 (323.00 in parts, and remainder in labor and tax). I could use the $500 or so because business is slow, which also gives us the time to do the repair. I'm no stranger to the toolbox, and would certainly have every standard tool required, as well as the talent to use them. That said, the shop that did it was reasonable, and I trust them to be fair; and will most likely have them repair this truck too.

So here's my concerns and thoughts about doing ourselves:

- are there special tools required

- torque specs

- measurements or inspections required

- don't want to try to save a buck and end up causing more/bigger problems

- end up not being able to finish the project

- if it's complicated, I'll let somone else do it

- if it's simple, I'd try it.

Thanks - and great site you have here.

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About special tools you will need to turn off a big nut. So will need a socket and a pneumatc tool for the best. Everything else is ordinar.

Although I'm in doubt about a parts value. There are inner cam, outer cam (cup) and peanuts. I bought inner cam and a set of nuts for R-model for about $270 (plus shipping). Outer cam is of a bigger size and how I remember was much worse. Of course you may revise your stuff and end up with partional exchange but don't hope hard about it.

Vlad

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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You would need the tool that hold the outer cam and pinion from spinning while you run the nut off. Then you would have to press the pinion and outer cam apart without damaging the threads on the pinion.

There is a spacer inbetween the the outer cam and pinion. This sets your bearing preload.

Then you would have to press the pinion and outer cam back together inside the pinion housing. After this you have to check the preload. If the preload is to tight or to loose you have to break it back down replace the spacer with a bigger one or smaller one to get the preload in spec. Then put the holding tool back in place get a torque multiplier and torque to spec. That would be the harderst part.


If you wanted to save some cash you could remove all the parts and pinion housing yourself. Then take the pinion housing to a shop and have them replace the outer cam, nut, outercam bearing and race. They can reassemble it and set the preload.

Then take it back and assemble the rest by yourself.

The wedges/peanuts have an arrow on them. The arrows point out.

The inner cam has a slot on one side. The slot faces towards the front of the rear. Meaning you should put the inner cam in the peanut/wedge cage and not see the slot.

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Sounds like you can do it your self only thing is you need some one there to show you how to do it and maybe they can bring their press when they come.Ya the tool that holds the outer cam is hard to find or make to.This may be the reason mechanics charge as much as they do. Shop rates are high ubtill you start to figure what equipment you need. I am just glade my son does my heavy duty repairs.

glenn akers

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Haha. I have a shop press sweet heart; but will probably have someone else do it anyway. As you recall, I never complained about the price my shop charged. I have also put many automotive rear gear sets in as I also own a race shop, bearing preload, patterns, and backlash - all no sweat. I didn't realize that stuff was involved here as well - very helpful. The info you all gave is helpful and greatly appreciated - even the sarcasm was fun reading. I'll keep you posted. Thanks to all!

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