burnin oil Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 I have a slight leak coming out of the passenger side cover where the shims go for the ring gear bearings. I am curious as to if there is a tray inside the carrier that directs the oil that may be clogged up with sludge. I thought about just siliconing the shims and cover to stop the leak but don't want to mess up the preload on the bearings. The bearing cover has leaked since day one (truck sat for 12 years and oil had broken down) when I changed the rear fluid. I am trying to flush it right now to be on the safe side but the flush oil looks pretty good. Is there anything that I am over looking here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnin oil Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 Anyone? I put some ATF in the rear along with the gear lube and ran it for a few miles. The ATF is still redish (salvaged from a trans fluid change) but there is a nice light coating of crud, almost like sediment, on the bottom of the diff now. Seems like it is doing its job with all the cleaners/additives. I am hoping to drain the rear in the next couple of days and replace the gear oil so if anyone has an idea on how to repair the leak I would appreciate the input. As it is every time the truck gets driven it is coating the bottom of the axle housing and dripping on the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 The only way is pull cover and replace shims or coat them with a sealer. When you get them oyut you will find its is leaking where the rust has got to them. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnin oil Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 I pulled it apart today and the shims were mint! Actually everything looked really good other than a little bit of wear on the thrust surface. Nothing major though. I cleaned everything up and applied RTV to the cover/first shim and the shoulder of the cover. Also put a glob next to the oil drain for the bearing and around the threads of the cover bolts. Drained the flushing oil, which looked good other than dark, and refilled with gear oil. Hopefully I will get a chance to test drive her tomorrow. Got finished just in time for firing the BBQ up for the 4th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnin oil Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 Good and bad news. Got the test drive in and it looks like the rear stayed dry. Bad news is I sprung an antifreeze leak and had a steady stream of antifreeze flowing out from under the truck. Luckily it happened at the end of the trip and everything stayed cool. Going to go ahead and replace all the houses and have the radiator done. Nothing like trading one leak for another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOB DINGSDALE Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 with the old(1960's)90W gear oil when it got hot it was still thick and didn't leak the new stuff 80-140 or such numbers is like water when hot and comes out any where like water finds the path of least resistance.there is a addative for auto tranys that stops seal leaks that I know works but dont know if it would work in rear ends.worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladislav Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 with the old(1960's)90W gear oil when it got hot it was still thick and didn't leak the new stuff 80-140 or such numbers is like water when hot and comes out any where like water finds the path of least resistance.there is a addative for auto tranys that stops seal leaks that I know works but dont know if it would work in rear ends.worth a try.A Stop Leack additive works on rubber seals making them softer.It can't stop fluid on it's way between metal parts as shims are. Vlad. Quote Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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