Shawn Barrett Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Does anybody have an up to date part code for the proper size fan belts for a 673 and who might supply them? Went down to the local NAPA....They had 64 Mack and a part number in their catalog but they brought it out and I laughed at them, bout a 1/4 of the size I need. So I told them to just get close to the remnants of my original. They have it ordered but I figured maybe one of you have a part number for the correct size.... Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topo Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 My 673 E has Mack 88GB439P672 43-7712 my extra engine 675 has Napa 13A1675 on both these engines the generator sets close to the block right under the intake manifold . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Barrett Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 My 673 E has Mack 88GB439P672 43-7712 my extra engine 675 has Napa 13A1675 on both these engines the generator sets close to the block right under the intake manifold .Thanks so much for that info. I'll be hunting for em Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billythekid Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Do you still have the original belt's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Barrett Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Do you still have the original belt's? I have "a belt" or whats left of it. No way of telling if its original or not or anything about it other than approximate size. Its about the thickness of a rubber band at this point and hasnt been running the water pump or turning the alternator since I brought it home. The other variable here is that the parallel switch has been axed and a 12v alternator installed in place of the generator. But I believe its mounted in the same position as the old generator and a factory size belt should do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 I have "a belt" or whats left of it. No way of telling if its original or not or anything about it other than approximate size. Its about the thickness of a rubber band at this point and hasnt been running the water pump or turning the alternator since I brought it home. The other variable here is that the parallel switch has been axed and a 12v alternator installed in place of the generator. But I believe its mounted in the same position as the old generator and a factory size belt should do the job.Depends on what alternator sheave is installed. An automotive alternator for use on a car takes a smaller width belt than a truck alternator. Post a photo of your alternator showing the sheave.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Barrett Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Depends on what alternator sheave is installed. An automotive alternator for use on a car takes a smaller width belt than a truck alternator. Post a photo of your alternator showing the sheave. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Barrett Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Another angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Another angleGood. That is a Leece-Nevile alternator although I do not remember the series but it does use the larger sheaves and belts. I got my belts from Carquest and they fit and function as they should. I'll round up the number for you this afternoon when I'm back at the shop.Get some filler spacers made to take up the slop between the mounting ears of the alternator case and the pivot mounting bolt before something breaks from the vibrations. Bolts in that type of length used as a pivot will not hold up long term with out snapping and the radiator is so close in those trucks they become sacrificial if a belt comes loose.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Barrett Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Good. That is a Leece-Nevile alternator although I do not remember the series but it does use the larger sheaves and belts. I got my belts from Carquest and they fit and function as they should. I'll round up the number for you this afternoon when I'm back at the shop.Get some filler spacers made to take up the slop between the mounting ears of the alternator case and the pivot mounting bolt before something breaks from the vibrations. Bolts in that type of length used as a pivot will not hold up long term with out snapping and the radiator is so close in those trucks they become sacrificial if a belt comes loose.RobThank you sir I appreciate the info...and yes I found out about the close parameters yesterday, what a task just trying to coax a fanbelt on. Theres barely enough room to get the belt up passed the rad. crossmember and the damper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Barrett Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 My 673 E has Mack 88GB439P672 43-7712 my extra engine 675 has Napa 13A1675 on both these engines the generator sets close to the block right under the intake manifold .Ok folks more news on the belt issue. I thought i found the "Golden Egg" here. I called up the local Mack dealer and parts dist. here in Allentown with this Mack part number I received courtesy of "TOPO",{Mack 88GB439P672} Which I greatly appreciate by the way.Called and gave the part number and to my surprise the man says "yea we have three of em on the shelf!". "Holy Crap" Im thinking to myself so I ran down and grabbed all three like the glutton Mack parts collector I am, thinking they are like hens teeth. He tells me "The B model stuff is pretty much out of our systems but we have this info in microfiche, we can however still get these belts". So I picked up that info which I figure is worth something.So I get home wrestle the belt through the damper and rad mount, up around my fan pulleys, around the alternator pulley and swing it out. Wouldn't you damn well know it, much too my chagrin its too big for my particular setup. The alternator is swung Waaayyy out away from the top mount to tighten the belt. Im thinking the original generator had a much bigger pulley and would take up all that extra slack I have. So I think Its "the right stuff" Just not the right stuff for my rigged up newer alternator with a smaller pulley on it........RATS!! $62.00 later Its still not right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Ok folks more news on the belt issue. I thought i found the "Golden Egg" here. I called up the local Mack dealer and parts dist. here in Allentown with this Mack part number I received courtesy of "TOPO",{Mack 88GB439P672} Which I greatly appreciate by the way.Called and gave the part number and to my surprise the man says "yea we have three of em on the shelf!". "Holy Crap" Im thinking to myself so I ran down and grabbed all three like the glutton Mack parts collector I am, thinking they are like hens teeth. He tells me "The B model stuff is pretty much out of our systems but we have this info in microfiche, we can however still get these belts". So I picked up that info which I figure is worth something.So I get home wrestle the belt through the damper and rad mount, up around my fan pulleys, around the alternator pulley and swing it out. Wouldn't you damn well know it, much too my chagrin its too big for my particular setup. The alternator is swung Waaayyy out away from the top mount to tighten the belt. Im thinking the original generator had a much bigger pulley and would take up all that extra slack I have. So I think Its "the right stuff" Just not the right stuff for my rigged up newer alternator with a smaller pulley on it........RATS!! $62.00 later Its still not right. Yup, it's times like these that a second look at Hillary will do you good....... Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Barrett Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Ok I got it! Went back to the Mack shop to return the oversize belts, thinking it was back to the drawing board at a NAPA store. Low and behold the guy behind the counter didn't look deterred at all... he says "Well we've got a couple different sizes in those belts! hang on a second" He pulls out a about a half dozen different sizes mated up in twos. The size I had #{Mack 88GB439P672}, was about 3-4 inches too large I figured... So I grabbed the other that he had laying on the counter part # {88GB439P647} which is right between 3-4 inches smaller. It was explained to me that the last three digits in the Mack # describe the overall size. So I effectively went from a 67.2 inch belt down to a 64.7 inch belt and it puts me right in the middle of my adjustment bracket for the alternator/{belt tensioner} in this case.So maybe this info will be useful to someone else with an alternator conversion like mine. A Leece-Neville alternator as stated by Rob...mounted in a similar factory location of the generator with a pulley wheel that is approximately 3.25 inches in diameter will work beautifully with a set of two Mack {88GB439P647} belts.Thanks for the help fellas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b61mack Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Thank you sir I appreciate the info...and yes I found out about the close parameters yesterday, what a task just trying to coax a fanbelt on. Theres barely enough room to get the belt up passed the rad. crossmember and the damper. You ought to try changing the crank pulley with the rad. crossmember still there, the pully had one groove wore more than the other one couldnt keep belts tight. 2 weeks ago i called Watts Mack just to see if they could get one, i couldnt beleve they had a 2 groove pulley for an E6 instock. i thought i would be making a trip to the junkyard to find another rusty one. PS those pulleys and dampers are pain in the A$$ to get off. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Barrett Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 You ought to try changing the crank pulley with the rad. crossmember still there, the pully had one groove wore more than the other one couldnt keep belts tight. 2 weeks ago i called Watts Mack just to see if they could get one, i couldnt beleve they had a 2 groove pulley for an E6 instock. i thought i would be making a trip to the junkyard to find another rusty one. PS those pulleys and dampers are pain in the A$$ to get off. RonOh I don't even want to think about it....Funny thing is I actually did think about that very thing today while I was looking at it. If you had to. It wouldnt be so bad to just pull the front end apart to do such a thing, but I know if I go down that road right now its gonna be a nightmare with all the rusted and corroded hardware...it would be the start of the full blown resto.im trying to avoid! If it was 1965 and the stuff was still nice and shiny and easy to get apart without a torch and a grinding wheel and then all the repairs required after... it wouldnt be such an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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