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Pump Plunger Stuck


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I just brought home a 55 model B61 oil field winch truck with a duplex and a 3spd. brown lipe, powered by a 673 with a woodward hydraulic governor. The injector pump has 1 stuck plunger which won't allow the rack to move, so the pump can pump fuel. I have taken out the delivery valve and soaked the plunger for several days. I used a cut down brazing rod as a punch and have moved the plunger some but it still won't let go, and I don't want to hurt the pump. any advice from those who have done this?

Thanks

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I just brought home a 55 model B61 oil field winch truck with a duplex and a 3spd. brown lipe, powered by a 673 with a woodward hydraulic governor. The injector pump has 1 stuck plunger which won't allow the rack to move, so the pump can pump fuel. I have taken out the delivery valve and soaked the plunger for several days. I used a cut down brazing rod as a punch and have moved the plunger some but it still won't let go, and I don't want to hurt the pump. any advice from those who have done this?

Thanks

If you pull the pump from the engine the method to get it loosened up is quite simple. Do a search for "plunger" in the advanced search as there are many commments on this as it is common.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I had the same problem with mine. What i did was remove the side cover on the pump, and soaked everything down with penetrating oil. I made sure the cam lobe was down. Then i took a small brass punch and tapped the plunger down. Soaked everything down again. Rolled the engine over pushing the plunger back up. then tapped it back down. I had to repeat this 6 or 7 times to get it to free up. i know this might not be proper way to do it , but it worked for me.

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Well, I got it freed up and running a couple days ago. It ran good for about 30 minutes, then it pulled down and died. After a little while it would crank back up and run a minute or two and would pull down slowly again and die. Applying more throttle didn't do much, there was a lag after giving more throttle til when the engine responded. I thought it was sucking air, so I replaced the fuel lines, nothing, so I run the suction line into a bucket of clean diesel, it ran just the same from the tank. I checked the fuel pump and the overflow valve which fine. What else could cause this, could the pump be bad from sitting so long?

Thanks

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Well, I got it freed up and running a couple days ago. It ran good for about 30 minutes, then it pulled down and died. After a little while it would crank back up and run a minute or two and would pull down slowly again and die. Applying more throttle didn't do much, there was a lag after giving more throttle til when the engine responded. I thought it was sucking air, so I replaced the fuel lines, nothing, so I run the suction line into a bucket of clean diesel, it ran just the same from the tank. I checked the fuel pump and the overflow valve which fine. What else could cause this, could the pump be bad from sitting so long?

Thanks

Did you check/change the fuel filter. If it is the original cartridge style, ensure the reservoir is full. If it is being sucked down then most likely the filter is plugged and should be changed.

Typically when a pump is bad it will idle well but will not deliver any power from the engine. This is due to the fuel supply bypassing the plungers due to wear and returning to the fuel gallery within the pump. This is just what piston rings do when they're worn out too with engine oil, and compression.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I did check the filter and it looked almost new, but to be sure the filter housing seal was alright I bypassed the filter and ran clean diesel straight from the fuel pump to the injector pump, and it still acted the same.

Thanks

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I did check the filter and it looked almost new, but to be sure the filter housing seal was alright I bypassed the filter and ran clean diesel straight from the fuel pump to the injector pump, and it still acted the same.

Thanks

I would never bypass a filter unless using known clean fuel which it sounds like you did. The next thing would be to install a "T" fitting into the discharge of the transfer, or lift pump on the side of the main pump housing, (this has the primer handle on it usually) and make sure that pump is putting at least 15psi out at a high idle of about 1500 rpm. If it is low either the pressure relief valve at the return to tank line is bad, or the transfer pump valves are shot.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Thanks for the advice, I also believe it is a issue with fuel supply to the injector pump, I took the supply pump apart and it looked fine, but to be safe I installed a supply pump from a another running truck, and no change. the overflow valve is functioning fine, I even blocked the line to make sure the valve wasn't bleeding off to soon. Could it be attributed to the hydraulic governor, I have absolutely no experience with them.

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Thanks for the advice, I also believe it is a issue with fuel supply to the injector pump, I took the supply pump apart and it looked fine, but to be safe I installed a supply pump from a another running truck, and no change. the overflow valve is functioning fine, I even blocked the line to make sure the valve wasn't bleeding off to soon. Could it be attributed to the hydraulic governor, I have absolutely no experience with them.

Didn't realize you had the hydraulic governor type injection pump. Yes, the hydraulic section of the governor could be bad, or the supply of engine oil to the governor could be restricted. Does your oil pressure gauge in the dash show good oil pressure? If the governor does not have good, steady oil pressure to it, the engine will shut down.

When the engine is first started for the day, does it buck and rock for a few moments then steady out? If so the governor could be needing adjusted, or rebuilt. These things internally are much like a Detroit diesel with setting the "droop" of the rpm balance, which is basically a recovery rate.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Can the hydraulic governor be removed from the injector pump while still on the engine? thanks

No it cannot. It is integral to the pump/control assembly. I've been told you can remove the cover at the rear of the pump and affix a wire to the end of the rack to pull the rack towards the rear when the engine is running. This would eliminate the governor function of the pump but could be used to isolate where the problem lies within the unit. If you were able to hold a steady high idle speed with this wire attached, one would surmise the governor section of the pump is defective, or the engine oil pressure declines as the engine warms due to bearing clearance issues. This is where engine oil pressure is necessary.

If you have access to another pump with the governor in the rear, the swap is straightforward. I'd pull this pump and have it checked at a fuel shop. Sounds like you've eliminated everything else external.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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