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E7_427 Motor


haus4350
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changed the oil the other day...noticed i have a leak today...i think it is coming from the relief valve or pop off valve on the canister type oil filter...what is this relief valve for and how do i stop the leak?? didnt notice it the little valve was threaded or not...what exactly does this oil filter do? it has a rubber hose that connects to the side of the block....

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That vent on top of the Centri Max is supposed to have a tube connected to it that runs up to the breather pipe arrangement on top of the valve covers.

If that tube is disconnected or missing, oil can come out of the vent and make a mess.

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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i looked at a 98 model and it looked like mine...i looked at a 93 model and it had the setup like you talk about...i wonder how my motor came from the factory? it looks like an oem vent...it has a cap on it...i may go to the mack place tommorrow...they are not much help for a small timer like myself...thanks guys

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ok...thanks for the info...what do you think would be causing it to leak??

If you have an ETECH engine (98 and up EUP engine) check the the wire screen filter in the blow/by canister mounted on the front timing cover. Remove the wire screen (lid unscrews)and see if its milky or gooey. We see this alot, liners leak antifreeze into oil pan and it plugs up the blow-by screen and the the blow-by goes out the vent on the filter stand and pushes oil with it.

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If you have an ETECH engine (98 and up EUP engine) check the the wire screen filter in the blow/by canister mounted on the front timing cover. Remove the wire screen (lid unscrews)and see if its milky or gooey. We see this alot, liners leak antifreeze into oil pan and it plugs up the blow-by screen and the the blow-by goes out the vent on the filter stand and pushes oil with it.

Yup Good Call 68, and the other thing that will make it gooey is running too cold!180 or a bit better is best!

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thanks guys...good info will check it out tomm. and see what i find...my local mack parts man is an ahole....i took him the vent today and told him i wanted a new one...he said he didnt have any and would have to order 10...couldnt order 1....he said to plug it!?

Unfortunatly thats not a high volume item and minimum quantitys of ten which seems to be the way the stupid parts system is ,and the economy being the way it is ordering ten to get one for someone seems rather senceless ya gota see thee guys point.But he could have looked to see if another dealer had one for ya!

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mackpro68,

you were exactly right...thanks for the tip....the canister was completely full of the gooey stuff(and the oil filler tube when i changed the oil last week)...no milky stuff though...the wire screen was full of water when i squeezed it....the blow by tube was even full of the gooey stuff...should have known something was up bc i was noticing the gooey stuff coming out of the blow by tube and landing on front axle/suspension parts....why would there be water in the wire mesh filter? i noticed after i put it all back together i noticed i had a few drops of water from the blow by tube...also what causes the gooey stuff? the truck runs at 180 degrees...but i will be doing alot of idling (4-6 hours) while waiting to dump by grain at the elevator

Edited by king cotton
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mackpro68,

you were exactly right...thanks for the tip....the canister was completely full of the gooey stuff(and the oil filler tube when i changed the oil last week)...no milky stuff though...the wire screen was full of water when i squeezed it....the blow by tube was even full of the gooey stuff...should have known something was up bc i was noticing the gooey stuff coming out of the blow by tube and landing on front axle/suspension parts....why would there be water in the wire mesh filter? i noticed after i put it all back together i noticed i had a few drops of water from the blow by tube...also what causes the gooey stuff? the truck runs at 180 degrees...but i will be doing alot of idling (4-6 hours) while waiting to dump by grain at the elevator

Low oil temp will cause water to codense in the oil. You want the oil temp to get above the boiling temp of water (212 degrees)so it can evaporate the water. There is a Mack service bulletin on this. I see alot of guys complaine that their oil temp is to high. Your oil temp should run 45degrees hotter that your coolant temp. On farm truck and short hauls the oil temp might not get up high enough or stay up long enough to "steam"the water out. Might have to change the oil more often. If you have a air fan clutch,you can have the fan programed (ETECH engines) to come on at 205 and off at 195, thats how we set them here and seems to help.

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...but i will be doing alot of idling (4-6 hours) while waiting to dump by grain at the elevator

In that case always make sure to bump the idle up to 800 - 1000 RPM by using the cruise control, or, shut it down.

Idling at low idle speed for extended periods is very bad for a diesel engine.

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Low oil temp will cause water to codense in the oil. You want the oil temp to get above the boiling temp of water (212 degrees)so it can evaporate the water. There is a Mack service bulletin on this. I see alot of guys complaine that their oil temp is to high. Your oil temp should run 45degrees hotter that your coolant temp. On farm truck and short hauls the oil temp might not get up high enough or stay up long enough to "steam"the water out. Might have to change the oil more often. If you have a air fan clutch,you can have the fan programed (ETECH engines) to come on at 205 and off at 195, thats how we set them here and seems to help.

68 mentioned this before >BE Sure your not losing coolant! This is important!If its losing coolant ya need to check things closer.

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