Rob

If you can "slip" a worm drive winch it is far beyond safe to use; nor will it operate at designed capacity.

That being said I've seen "scrappers" and such operate equipment till someone is either killed, maimed, or seriously injured before they will take a piece of equipment out of service.

No reference to anyone or anybody with that comment but there are some beyond stupid that will run equipment like that and the lawyers love them.

The Char-Lynn hydraulic motor you are using is 14.9 CIR and with 2000psi hydraulic pressure against it should deliver about 3980 inch pounds of torque at the output. At 15gpm is should rotate about 49 - 50 rpm unless leaking internally.

I certainly hope you are running a case drain, return line filtration, and good maintenance practices or you are shortening your equipment service life significantly.

I'll mow grass when it gets ahead of the goats. 

21 minutes ago, RowdyRebel said:

I put 100 miles on the motorcycle today.

 

 

😛

I thought about it seriously but worked in the shop instead. Need to replace the battery this year as is getting weak. 

Yes, keep good maintenance on your coolant. One of my trucks ran neglected coolant and the liners perforated through. I could see light shine through when working a "snake light" in through the block while under the truck with the pan off. New liners are NLA and I had a set made at $175.00 each!!!! When you have that oil cooler pack off the truck for rebuild and after resealing it, block the oil path discharge opening and pressurize it to 75psi while it's under water to check the core integrity. That's just a suggestion but I hate doing something twice.

I'm not aware of an FA-511 axle ever using full bushing type king pins. They were needle bearings at the top as I remember.

Pretty neat setup. We have a guy here local whom can mix down 1/8 yard precisely. It is mounted onto a F-550 Ford chassis and he custom casts small items in place such as concrete pillars, goldfish ponds, birdbaths, etc. right off the truck. I've done some buildup and repair to his prior apparatus but this one is only about two years old. Neat thing about his setup is he "washes out" afterward into a self contained tank leaving no trace on a customer's property. Never seen anything like that prior.   

20QL245P1, and 20QL1118A, and 20QL252P3 are insulators I have used in the past for transmission mountings. Can't remember however the series of truck they were used on.

That would be a fair assumption as it is a nice candidate for restoration. Might have the asking price in it once complete or a little more dependent upon depth undertaken.

The new style clip from the old part number. Those are not meant to be removed for reuse. I gave you the part number from the empty package I'd ordered in 1999. 

Thanks Alex. I will look at my water wagon which has one and I'm thinking it's different. I don't think the type shown opens correctly for what I'm needing?

I'll be back out there yet tonight.

Thanks,

Picture is bad but those look like 2000# iron bombs to me. The yellow rings behind the threaded end for the detonator are consistent.

I have never seen missiles ferried in an open state as shown and was around a lot of them while in the military. Missiles were always in containers.

Fictional?

Haven't seen snow that good since the winter of 78-79 around here. "Vee" bladed plow trucks running the roads at 30+MPH really piled the snow  as they punched through and we had a blast out "tubing" the piles behind snowmobiles.

Somewhat local Mack dealer purchased the local branch a couple of years ago and I hope they do well. Had four other Mack dealers in somewhat local area over the past few years and nobody could get a foothold. Latest one does alright but won't cut me favorable pricing so although not liking it, I stay where I've been for about 20 years.

I don't see a lot of them in service in central IL. Mostly KW. The ones I do see are mixers usually.

I didn't heat my shop this year saves the office and spray room. Didn't work in it long enough to justify the cost so bundled up good and got by.

2 hours ago, 41chevy said:

Life goes on here.  

 

Should have some good times with the cold, dense air.

We hit 42 today but it is really windy as a front blows through now.

the door is marked "X" meaning it has to remain closed to preclude lighting being seen at night during "darken ship" hours. Don't know why the coat would be there however unless the jamb were damaged from earlier combat exposure. 

Looks like he has a bright and promising future career ahead of him.

I don't think that is correct but can you measure the top width, bottom width, and height and I'll ensure. Doesn't need to lock in my application as the glass is about four inches from the winch actuator. 

Thanks,

Looking for a rear slider glass for my R model before I make one from parts. I ordered a new CR Laurence unit but it doesn't open far enough to comfortably operate my winch controls mounted on the headrack. The factory Mack type does open far enough. 

Anybody got one? 

Rained like a cow pissing on a flat rock non stop all day here. Going to be a muddy slop pit at the shop as the ground is frozen so no place for the water to go quickly. 

First picture reminds me of a coon headed for the woods. Second picture is much more classy than the first. Third and fourth photos I admire the effort. Fifth photo is typical of an accident awaiting a place to happen. Sixth photo and caption doesn't surprise me a bit given what I see as a result of deregulation. Seventh photo kinda looks like a dog to me. Given it was referenced the animal "barked", I assume it is of the canine family. Eighth photo is the way it should be. A mother and father taking care of their needs making babies to nurture to adulthood.

Just some of my wayward observations.

if the needle is deflecting and sticking the problem is in the indicator itself. Probably old grease which has lost it's lubricity qualities, (hard, dry). Not hard to repair but a simple and quick repair is to remove the instrument, submerge in hot water, allow it to heat soak and swish it around quite violently to soften and desolve and dirt/grit internal. This will also loosen/soften the old lubricant, (at times). Follow this up with a double rinse of warm distilled water or a mixture of "Calgon" and tap water to eliminate water spots. Allow to dry or bake in the oven for about 30 minutes at 250 degrees to force dry.