Rob

I'm not big into woodgraining myself, but it really does help in the appearance. I still prefer the later style dash but again that's personal preference.

Unless there is something more substantial busted up than the photo shows it is well worth repairing.

Shops that specialize in Corvette, boats, aircraft parts, etc. will be good candidates to reference. Fiberglass work is not difficult, but it is time consuming to do correct.

1 hour ago, autocardc said:

That’s really neat, it is downtown next to psc metals.

I was downtown often as grandpa worked at Monsanto, and several cousins worked at Busch. Don't remember PSC Metals but there were a lot of business around there then.

We lived near Bevo Mill and a bus ride anyplace in the city and suburbs was cheap; so got around a lot.

50 minutes ago, autocardc said:

 

going to sound ridiculous but I remember this truck or it's kissing cousin from my younger days and St. Louis is not a small town.

Here is a link to a truck with the dash and center portion I do not find attractive. It is functional however:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-MACK-CH613-TANDEM-AXLE-DAY-CAB-MACK-TRUCK-road-tractor/264341922871?hash=item3d8c01a437:g:tPUAAOSwkPZc7pTH

I could live with the dash layout you had. I remember the last CH I installed a hood, door, and repaired the cowl being something ABF would be interested in when new. Very cleap looking to me.

That is nicer than any I drove or worked on. The ones I've seen were very "spartan" and solid matte black and gray color. Pretty cheap looking instrument panel too. Maybe they were older. It's been a few years since I've seen the inside of one.

Central tie point grounding is consistently a bad idea IMO. So much is tied together it sends technicians on ghost trains a lot when a problem rears. Wiring connections and junctions too present problems but those can many times be broken down into component segments. It all manifests itself once someone starts chopping into it for t/s or additional components.

Never did drive a CL series. Plenty of CH-600 series though and always like them except the instrument panel. I think the newer, (2003 and up?) look a lot nicer.

I know. Used to get 10 year old cars in the shop and involved in a collision. Insurance companies only will pay for what was damaged in a collision and you can imagine what a new headlamp looks like next to an aged one. A good customer would get a new capsule at shop cost and a "one time wonder" would get a reduced from retail cost if elected. Really didn't want people to be unequal in lighting output as that really can be dangerous. Lost count of the number donated because someone legitimately could not afford to bear the cost too.....

The E-7 platform was sound but the early electronics were in their infancy as we now know. Much more reliable than some of the electronics installed on today's engines for sure.

I agree when they were young. Once the plastic got some age on it however..... Replaced a bunch of headlamp capsules, (as they are now called) in them after they started hazing, (yellowing) over.

I always like the sealed beam headlamps rather than the later "aero" style.

Hard to believe the style is 30+ years old but it's been that long since I was in the Navy.

What size are the tires? Look to be 11X24 from the photos earlier. 

Should be on the left side of the main case. About centered. The numbers will be hand stamped; not cast into the case.

I had a 1964 3/4 ton GMC w/305E V6 engine and it would pull just like a 350 Chevy engine in a new truck, (1976). 7.50X15 tires on three piece "widowmaker" rims. It was my first pickup truck and that thing and my Hobart engine drive welder went a lot of places together fixing bulldozers, scrapers, backhoes, truck frames, dump boxes, and just about anything else needing welded for several years. Damned thing had a "Detroit Locker" differential in the back, and springs so stiff it hardly sagged with a ton in the bed. I still have the original shifter knob as a momento too.

As Trent stated the bolt does have to be removed. The pitman shaft, (sector shaft is proper name) has a concave radius machined into is circumference and the bolt, (capscrew) slides through this radius disallowing removal of the pitman arm with it in place.

I have a puller by "Tiger Tool" for that task but it wouldn't do the arm on a Superliner once so I made one using an OTC puller frame and forcing screw, and 1/4" aircraft cables which did work.

Hi Day;

I'm looking for a number such as TRQ7220 or just Q7220 or something along those lines.

The 4 24 66 I believe means the transmission case was either cast, (if raised), or manufactured, (if stamped) on that date. Either way it appears to be a replacement transmission.

It could be titled a 1967 but most likely 1966 as the latest year for that cab design. 1967 - 1972 used the newer style cab.

1964 or newer. The 1963 and back had a more curved, or wrapping windshield in the lower corners.

Thanks much. I've not asked and it's not been mentioned till now. I was kinda thinking it was the next weekend so glad I did ask.

What is the date of Macungie this year? I know it's father's day weekend but don't even know when that is.

I kinda figure they are like televangelists. They need lots of funding from distant sources to continue their operation. Support the few, fuck the masses. Lots of hypocrites in that organization for sure. 

6 minutes ago, JoeH said:

What is the proper way to do it? 😀  My 95 rd688s steers like the Titanic, we have adjusted it to get about as much out of the 315s as we can reasonably get.

Twisting the bolts in is the easy part. You then need to adjust internal relief valves in the steering gear to bypass hi pressure when against steering lock otherwise high temperature hydraulic fluid and shortened component life are the result. Aged/abused sealing rings internal to the steering gear although still working will require much greater steering effort from the driver as a result.

Your fuel or lift pump pressures sound fine and this means you are pressurizing the fuel gallery within the pump adequately. With pump wear, (which I suspect) the high pressure for fuel injection is suffering internal to the injection pump. No real way to check this without removing the injection pump from the engine and sending in to a fuel shop for evaluation. They will need to mount it into a test stand to check for output pressure and volume. 

What the fastener in your circle does is adjust fuel delivery to be injected per engine demands. This is what a fuel shop will adjust once they have all eight fuel injectors balanced as far as fueling rate and cracking pressure, (opening pressure). If the pump will not make adequate pressure to inject the fuel, adjusting this screw will gain you nothing. The lower screw in your photo adjusts the maximum engine speed. I do not recommend adjusting either without experience to what is affected. Both are precise in calibration settings.

With Mack engines it is always best to send both the injection pump, and injection nozzles into a fuel shop together to be calibrated together. These will be numbered as to which cylinder each is to be reinstalled into when all is done.

I pulled corporate sponsorship away from them back in the early 2000's because of the prevalent closeminded ideology of the then administration officials. Never went back. 

Seen that plenty when folks turn the spindle stop bolts in to decrease the turn radius. Most don't know the proper way to do it either.