Rob

You can still find cabs but not ebay for sure. I have three I've purchased from trucking outfits when phasing out the R model. Mine aren't for sale but if you start calling around you'll probably strike wealth with a little patience. 

If you've never swapped a cab in the past and work alone, you have quite a project for yourself ahead. 

The backspacing is paramount to his question. Different chassis/axle combinations will require a rim with adequate offset to preclude digging the tires into the frame or suspension members. To rule out trial and error you need to measure the distance from the hub face to the frame or anything the tire could impact during wheel cut or cornering. From there you use the measurements of the actual diameter and width of the inflated tire to be run and check for clearance while the wheels are turned lock to lock. This is easy to do with a yard stick or straight edge, and a tape measure from the wheel hub.

Those large tires get kinda expensive to tear them up by rubbing.....  

Negwer has a large distribution warehouse in Peoria and the same door stickers are applied. They are usually hauling a tag trailer and many of the trucks have cranes installed.

Just now, Freightrain said:

I tried the "shed" routine.  Nope, they won't allow it.  ANYTHING with a roof is considered a building and on residential property goes towards your total sq footage on outbuildings.

Around here it is the attached to the ground type thing. If it sets on the ground, but is not anchored, (such as a foundation) it is not taxable. A storage building can set on a concrete pad and not be taxable as long as someone doesn't use it as a residence.

One thing you "most likely" could do and get away with is to build a skid mounted storage building with a floor heavy enough to support the weight. In your case that may be substantial but it's what we have done to get zoning off a guy's ass here locally with an antique bulldozer within the city limits. With no concrete or gravel involved and the shed unmounted to the ground, it is a "storage shed" and not taxable, nor subject to zoning rules. Neighbors have challenged/tried different angles for years to get it removed, but it's still there.

Might be a bit less trouble if the owner would attempt to get along with his neighbors but has chosen the unflinching "asshole" route.  

I zoned my property "industrial" for this very purpose. Only thing I can't do is physically "live" in the shop building. It costs a bit more in real estate taxes each year, but there are no headaches from neighbors, zoning officials, or anything of the like. In other words "no problems" with whatever I choose to do.

That ad was from 1974 as I was a freshman in high school and remember seeing it on the television in the library. Only went to that school the one year. I too questioned what went on "behind the scenes" to make the commercial.

10 - 11psi is what you would normally see on those engines when they were running well under a good load. Used to work for a place and swapped one for a six cylinder as couldn't keep it reliably running and it was in that range of boost pressure. The other R model with that engine was too far gone, (rust) to work with although it too was problematic to keep operational. The same party purchased both the truck, and then spare engine in some kind of deal.

As mentioned look at the fuel pump as it sounds as if you are just not getting enough fuel as the root cause. That engine should smoke pretty fair under a pull just off of low idle speed before the turbochargers have time to spool up. Both I was around did when they were running well.

Sure was a quiet weekend for me. Proved to myself I can't spoil my eight, seven, four, and seven month old grand daughters enough no matter how much I try. All comes out they "deserve" it. 

27 minutes ago, Rockland Steel said:

Yea, a thunder cloud lmao

I have a few of em so vaguely familiar.....

Looks like it's got 10 air bags to me so ought to ride like a cloud.....

The V8 Mack engine and the Detroit Diesel two stroke. Two sounds I really miss the most in trucking.

13 minutes ago, R.E.D said:

Replaced both tensioners and belts .drove truck 10 miles and the thin belt is already starting to shred.nothin seems to be rubbing

Is any ancillary drive, (a/c compressor, alternator) etc. running smooth or vibrating during operation? Make certain the clutch is locked in and turning the a/c compressor when the system is running. When the belts are off are the sheaves, (pulleys) rotating smooth and easily by finger pressure?

If everything is in alignment I would suspect the front bearing in the a/c compressor clutch first unless certain the compressor is running constant.

7 hours ago, jimtruck said:

'83 R686  with a e6-300. When driving and trying to maintain a constant speed, say 50mph, the engine is constantly "hunting" or surging. Linkage/ Throttle arm look good and feel ok. 

I removed the governor assembly from the pump and disassembled it, nothing seemed abnormal or wore out. Is there anything in particular i should look for?

The gear that drives the governor has what looks to be a slip clutch on it, What is the proper way to set it?

The truck idles ok and pulls good with plenty of power, its just hard to drive due to the surging and it gets worse with light to no load on the engine. 

The pump is an American Bosch  type APE6bb110T6978.

Thanks,

Jim

Needs to go to a pump shop for calibration. Usually pins and bushing wear causes that along with spring pressure. It's a balancing act inside the governor and everything has to be closely aligned.

5 minutes ago, The Mechanic said:

yeah this is a heavy heavy truck. but does that usually mean that the rear ratio is super low?

Usually, but not a hard rule. I would expect high 4.XX to the mid 5.XX ratio in the rears.

Looks like a Neway AD-246 suspension which is heavy, and Rockwell Standard axles.

Just now, Superdog said:

yes it is then a local Co-op had it.,only showing 207k miles,I'm guessing its actual. EM6-300 with a 5 speed. Gonna need some TLC and a real good interior cleaning,but really solid.

 

There is a duplicate in E. Peoria I've been trying to get ahold of for almost 10 years. E6-350 and seemingly runs well. I think it has a 10 speed but could be a nine. Farmer has it but it too was ABC and is marked the same.

Former ABC truck?

2 hours ago, Blue Nile trucker said:

I just checked and there is no suction at all so I think I might have bad air compressor here thanks

Or the coupling has sheared it's drive teeth. They are phonelic composition and if not renewed with the compressor change, are highly suspect.

2 hours ago, JoeH said:

Can you delete the worn lift pump and install an electric lift pump? Make a cover plate for the old lift pump location?

Got to be careful there as an electric pump is not variable in flow. Seen it done a time or two and the engines flood, or overfuel at idle.

Common problem in the old style canister type filters whether full, or bypass flow. A replacement external check valve with a very low pressure unseating pressure and viton seat takes care of the issue.

Compressor make and type? The unloaders are not functioning correctly is the root problem and it's constantly making air pressure when it should not be. If you are blowing hoses your system relief valve in the wet tank is not functioning as it should release pressure over 150psi. 

I sure wish that is what I was hearing from the independent body shops I'm around and visit, (including dealerships). Being in the collision repair business for many years and having vague familiarity with the operation(s), the reality is quite different at my local geographic level.

Sales I can't answer for. Repair is another arena however and I have a little direct experience with it.

Fisher, although a GM owned subsidiary, also stamped the body panels for the 1973 to 1976 Ford Thunderbird. They did some for the Ford Granada, and Mercury Monarch also. Not guessing as I was repairing cars when those were common on the roads.