Rob

We had a 920 that was articulated. 3304 engine for power and powershift transmission.

The shoes are the basic "P" design and they are easily replaced. You need to purchase the newer style hardware and rollers to retain the new style shoes.

50 minutes ago, Mack man 1973 said:

I am currently completely rebuilding my rear brakes on my 69 R 600 . It has the pin on rear shoes with the cast aluminum shoes I had do do some looking to find new linings for the shoes and new bolts . The guy told me they are getting scarce and they were 250.00 per axle plus the bolts so I have 500.00 in just the linings I was surprised by the cost anyone have suggestions where I can purchase some for more realistic costing  ? Thanks 

I have the cast aluminum style on my B-673 and had them relined at about $350.00. You can however replace them with Rockwell "P" series shoes with little effort and they are much less expensive. My 72, 73, and 78 R models have the later style.

34 minutes ago, Christopher baulch said:

You should really watch what you say because I know for a fact that me and Brian were never charged with anything 

You apparently didn't get your 15 minutes of fame when the subject was new so trying to make up for it? Maybe my negative numbers intelligence level preclude me understanding just what you are attempting to prove other than making yourself look like a fool? Sounds like you were either lucky as not part of the larger prize, or were not involved. Either way, count your blessings.

Best talk to an attorney before you start referencing suing anyone for something several years aged. Statute of limitations applies and IF, (big IF) you get something filed, I'm sure countersuits will follow shortly after your frivolous claims are tossed. It is the way the judicial system works.

Think with your brains, not your attitude.

Mine is an OTC and I'll get a photo of it for you. It is however the prior edition from what is available now. It has arms that bolt to the spokes and a handwheel to elevate the assembly so no weight is placed upon the wheel end seal. I'll be back out there tonight and will grab a photo.

3 hours ago, JoeH said:

I do like those aluminum rims for steer and lift. They look real sharp, recessed in just right with a wide tire I like that style granite, looks more like a work truck than the newer flashy ones.

 

Take your pick, heavy wheels or heavy hubs. In theory I think I'd rather buds on the rear, because I'm a wimp too. Don't relish the idea of pulling spoke hubs off by myself for a brake job. Only time a bud hub needs to come off is when a wheel seal goes bad. 

But we only have spoke hubs trucks. Just the way it's always been. We back into a lot of driveways , so we think bud rims would crack more often than normal. Not sure what everyone else's experiences are.

I have a hub and drum dolly for the task. No physical lifting of the heavy members that way. 

Yup. Seen several 237, (ENDT-675) honked on and busted the blocks. Everything has limits and the E-6 series was at it's limit with the 300+, (IMO) as it wasn't strong enough to tear itself apart, but was strong enough to yield GREAT service if taken care of. I've said that same thing for a lot of years and never been proven wrong yet.

I always like spokes on the drives. Budd on the steer. Lot's easier to change due to weight and balance. Steel Budd on the rear were heavy for a wimp, (me). Looks like he's sporting a flat on the rear outer in the photo.

Takes three times the horsepower to move that same load nowadays. Probably had your choice of "easy bake oven", or luxury of 2/40 air conditioning, along with free cab refrigeration in the winter months too.

45 minutes ago, dogg rescue said:

I'm replacing the front cover on our 88 R model, and the original cover had a gasket. My parts man says I should use silicone or expect leaks. Any thoughts?

I'm old school and still use gasket shellac, (Indian Head). I only use silicone if the surface is imperfect; however I like the gray Permatex, (high torque) under a rigid bolted cover like that.

Never have worked on that late of E6 I'm aware of however.

I've used them both along with "Dawson's". Go with a Jones if you can justify the expense.

2 hours ago, h67st said:

The bull gears in my differentials have pretty healthy rust pitting in them, what do you think about using them in a hobby truck? The wear patterns are light. I'll never haul significant loads with it, won't run very many miles.

Stoned or sanded off they will probably be fine. Water in the bottom of the bowls? Tom get you fixed up?

3 minutes ago, RobM626 said:

I wish I knew the answers to those questions but unfortunately do not

Can you ask? There are seemingly many avenues that were not tried or evaluated in the course of trying to repair this truck; all at your expense.

I don't mean to be belligerent but you have been through the mill on this and it's exactly the kind of "Bitch Problems" I always got stuck with when working trucks.

Might take two buffers on that one.

2 hours ago, terry said:

I had a vibration once in a 237, it was running but the crank came out in two pieces!     terry

I've changed two crankshafts in 237's that have been driven in and the crankshaft was busted. Both right at the thrust bearing.

I would be interested in the setup he used to measure the crankshaft deflection. 

Was a sustitute flywheel tried? Was the crankshaft flange face indicated and measured? Was crankshaft vertical play in the block measured? Was balance on engine flywheel checked when removed from engine? 

I am absolutely astounded the engine was not run without the transmission installed.

It is easy. You pull one main cap at a time, set up an indicator on that exposed journal and rotate the crankshaft by hand noticing the deflection, (which is twist) while it is still installed. They usually do this prior to snapping/breaking and is usually a result from "dumping" the clutch while heavy.

With the pan dropped, did they check the crankshaft for twist which will show up as runout in the center of the crankshaft most times. This needs done at each main bearing crankshaft journal with an indicator as the crankshaft is rotated. Rebuilt a couple of engines where the crankshaft was not straight in the center from torsional stress and exceeded yield of the forging.

It's damned hard to be at the mercy of the mechanic; especially if they are on the wrong track. The small and "old time" shops tend to work with a customer if what they installed turns out to be incorrect or doesn't fix the problem. Very frustrating to "eat" what was misdiagnosed 100%. We are human and make mistakes and I always ran my business(s) with that thought in mind.

I've seen more than one truck with a bent crankshaft snout when hit in the front. Has this been checked for runout with the balancer removed? The crankshaft should have probably been evaluated for bend and runout with the pan dropped as have seen them twisted but not broken causing vibrations that are extremely difficult to locate.

There were too many ideas/guesses thrown out there at first so I backed off.

Throwing parts at a repair is no way to do business and VERY expensive, (as you know).

7 minutes ago, Coenut said:

It's not a Mack and I'm kinda embarrassed to say i own it. So it's the wife's problem.

keep the mack in good mechanical repair so you can drag the Peterbilt home..... repeatedly.

52 minutes ago, JoeH said:

So what is a Jerk system? Is the endt676 a PLN system then?

Is PLN basically to differentiate between a common rail system and a traditional fuel injection system?

Yes. Early mechanical fuel injection systems using an inline type pump were called "Jerk" systems. They were also referred to as "plunger pumps". Rotary pumps such as a "Roosa-Master" were called that, rotary.

Common Rail, and HEUI injection is not a PLN system at all. Detroit Diesel used mechanical unit injectors for years to inject the high pressure diesel fuel.

I've never seen the designation PLN used in the past in practice, but have seen it in training manuals.

Great to hear and thanks for the follow up. Don't feel you stirred a hornet's nest or anything of the like. We would rather seem overboard rather than you be stranded with something destroyed. If it were me, (and I do) get a spare one of those caps to keep in the shop, or truck. You never know when someone is going to knock the center out of them with a shopping cart or something completely out of any kind of suspect. Happened to me twice. Once when an employee was rolling a heavy box using a hand truck and the box caught the rubber plug somehow. Second time when a driveway identification reflector pole, (mounted low) got wrapped in the wheel while backing into a driveway when dark. Both times broke the windows right out but had spares to make the repairs in the trucks.

10 minutes ago, Maddog13407 said:

usually with my luck the metal/aluminum will gauld together and corrode and when you try to back the bolt out it will break the bolt circle out of the hubcap....I have put those damn hubcaps on brand new and had them leak out of the window before so I def wouldn't try putting just a window kit in a 45 year old hubcap

What do us old guys know, eh Matt?