Rob

I too would look for something common as that is a lot of different areas to ring codes from at once. Look for a shared ground which is a common culprit supplying branch circuits.

You are wanting to change the dynamics of the truck's setup. The existing pump is designed to be run with a 100% duty cycle and transmission driven PTO's are not unless designed that way and they are expensive. There is also flow division as the dump body requires much more fluid flow than the plow. You would probably be best to replace the existing pump with a "dump pump" that is transmission driven conventionally to power the dump bed, and a clutch pump on the engine to power the plow. Clutch pumps can be run 100% and be shut off when not needed.

You are going to incur some cost with the solenoid valves, or spool valves needed to make this work unless you go with an electrical driven pump but they are usually very low flow rating. Low flow would make the cyclical rate of the plow very slow to operate given the size of the cylinders used. 

If it were me that truck would need to be earning it's keep before I modified if mechanically sound as it is. Not a lot is saved by converting the transmission and driveline without the cab on the frame over doing it when the truck is all together. That power platform is very robust if taken care of and I'd get some work out of it till the budget allows working with it more.

Nothing says you can't. I feel you can do better than that however but it will take a bit of time and unfortunately, $$$. With the "Maxidyne" tuning and gears closely spaced the engine will not perform as designed but will still run well. As mentioned most find the gearing "short". That was the problem I ran across with most conversions is the pump is not worked with.

8 minutes ago, Macktruckman said:

Or anyone who can direct me for that matter and thank all of you guys again 

It will take a fuel shop to work adjustments on the pump. I will say to not touch it yourself as it is a very precise calibration procedure to go through for accurate and balanced delivery. Should you elect to do this, pull both the pump, and fuel injectors after marking which injector is from which cylinder and send them in together. Mack always specified to match the injectors to the pump they were to be used with for proper balance. They are calibrated as per 1000 strokes on a very precise machine, (test stand). I've used Thompson Diesel in both Tulsa, and OKC a few times but that has been a while so don't have any recent history.

One of my truck's turbocharger housing has "Muffling Device" cast into it with raised letters. Don't remember which one however.

All in a day's work in a body shop. Years of twist and torque  in different places take their toll.

and on the hills of Pennsylvania it'll roll back a long ways too.....

I have the same phone given to me as a Christmas gift year before last. NIB so don't know how it works.

I had the OEM Mack color(s) converted to PPG several years ago but it's at the shop. I'll look next time I'm out there.

I've never seen a gold dog on anything that didn't have a complete Mack "Maxidyne" driveline myself. Used to work on a lot 1968-1983 R models and anything that had a gold dog was a Mack powertrain complete. My 1973 RL-797LST, (water wagon) is a Mack powertrain front to back and has a chrome dog but is not a "Maxidyne" series engine. The 1974 RL-797LST has a Mack engine, Mack transmission, but Rockwell SQHD rears on Reyco spring suspension. It has a chrome dog also. The 1977 R-795S has a Mack engine, Mack transmission and is on Mack rears. It originally had a gold dog on the hood but is currently chrome. The gold was replaced when it was swiped, (I'm told). I know both of the RL chrome dogs are original to the truck as have researched and spoken with the original owners/purchasers of these vehicles.

All that being said I cannot input on anything newer than about 1984 as I've not really been around them except collision repair and modifications giving very little attention to originality.

I read someplace that our favorite government agency, (EPA) had a hand in it. VOC, and lead contents are most likely the leading culprit. My 72 R-685, (ENDT-675) had a red engine as built. Don't know why or if was special ordered that way but most I'd seen were gold at that time.

And a low cut positive rake to the tool to "shear and peel" rather than "dig" the thickness away. Light plunge at a high travel speed with flood cooling if available worked best for me. 

Nice theme. My grand daughter would absolutely love the color. Put a LOT of bedsides on that series due to rust under warranty from Ford in the 90's. 

Grandpa always called someone whom was different an "8 Ball", so was wondering how you cabbaged onto the theme. Once upon a time I installed higher end billiards tables so retained a high quality set of balls and had both mentioned earlier to fit shifter handles eventually. I've had them since about 1979 or early 1980.

90 degrees above ambient used to be taught as optimum for a working engine when everything was iron. I'm not sure about newer composite engines being the same. In reality your coolant thermostat(s) should modulate to maintain coolant operating temperature someplace close to their rating. A cold engine is usually resultant of the thermostat not partially closing or restricting coolant flow in the system. A hot engine is usually lack of air flow through the heat exchanger, (radiator) or a restricted coolant flow. 180-190 degrees is about the target to ensure good fuel burn and efficiency from my experience.

Here is the stuff I use a lot of:

Not afraid to use this one at the drop of a hat. Not my trailer but one of my B-61 trucks to be broken down for parts:

7 hours ago, seyser said:

Nice looking rig!

Well thank you and that mirrors my thoughts on yours. Don't get to see a lot of R models in work clothes any longer and I find it "refreshing" to see one not all dolled up.

I'll have to did further into my truck as far as a completion date. It is a 1980 R-612ST. 300+ engine, RTO-12513 Fuller, and Mack Camelback 3.87 rears. All is original to the truck except the replacement transmission. I have Budd hubs on front and Dayton's on the rears in 11RX24.5 rubber. Just over 500k on the clock but only about 45K on a out of frame rebuild with the new "ReMack" cylinder heads.

5 minutes ago, fjh said:

Maxidyne 285 ESI ?

I was going to ask the series of the truck also? Engine is a "kissing cousin" to my ETAZ673.

While the "body bound" bolts are the best to use by far, I've used these for many years on both mine, and other's repairs when stretching or relocating frames/parts without issue. I do use a "Hougen" magnetic drill with the correct annular cutter for the fastener and it's much less expensive than the other fasteners:

While it may not be right or the best way it's worked for a lot of years for me.

I've used the Lawson product on open gears in the past and it works well. If you get a truck up so weight is off the suspension and spray the spring leaves, they run quiet and work much easier. The rep used to stop by a couple of the shops weekly for clips and such and it was always really convenient. A little spendy at times for some items but they certainly have a lot and want to ensure you are happy is what I've found.

I use a product by "Winzer" for door hinges and glass runs. It sprays on like a liquid foam and solids up clear getting into rolling bushings and such firming up as it dries. It's kinda like a chain lubricant.

Funny with your original photo as I have a fresh "13" pool ball for the shifter, and an "8" for the steering column adjust in my RL-755LST model I have yet to install.