b61fred

Ah... once again a potintaly infromative thread, hijacked!! ha-ha..

Thats the same company.... I forgot the Mcmaster part.. opps Fred

hi, I got the last ones I needed for Walts R 205 from carr products, It was refered to as a" body bound bolt" You had to specify the diameter of the shoulder, You had to clamp the two pieces toget her(I just used regular bolts) then ream the hole and then press the bolt in( very slight press fit, but snug). removed the next bolt, reamed the hole and installed next bolt until done. They dont want to give them away either!!! Fred

hi, What has been said already is 100 percent true, but when I did the same thing on my b 61 I installed the old bellhousing on to the 675 engine the dowel pin on the old engine were much larger than the newer engine. I machined the old dowel pins from the 673 engine to have a step in them so one side fit the bellhousing and the other fit the engine. Installed the bellhousing and removed the injectors from the engine so I could rotate it easier. The bellhousing was almost perfect. The only reason I did it this way is because I thought it was close before and that it maybe it would check ok again without alot of indicating to center the bellhousing, There is a tool to mount the indicator to crank. Morgan

I think you will be shifting alot and slowing down on hills when loaded like that.

The front input bearing and shaft is designed to be supported by the collar that it slips into. I dont know if the carrier bear would be enough support for it. I suppose that it you did some machine work to make a bearing mount to support that it would work there. To figure your input torque from the other trans find out the max. torque rating of the engine and take that times your lowest gear ratio and you would have your max input torque rating. Fred

hi, replace you 24 v starter with a 12 v starter. then all the wiring to the bateries is straight forward. The only real difference will be that you will need to take your starter button wire to the silinoid on the starter instead of the SP switch. I have used a small (ford automotive type) starter relay on the starter button wire so that the button has very light load put apon it. You should goto a negitive ground at this time but is not totally nessecery. Just makes installing radios and CB's easier later on, and alternators are a fine upgrade also. Morgan

Hey..... I will just trade all my mack b 7x's for that one.... come on...Please! Christmas is coming... I could make a very large stocking to put it into! Fred

hi I Thought this was the place where we all agreed and talked of only Macks!..........Let there be peace once more! B61 Fred

Hi, The way I inspect for air leaks in the vacuum side of the system. remove the line at the pump and make a line that is a foot or so long that is clear. I have used vynyl hose from the hardware store. connect the clear hose between the pump and the supply line you remove earlier. start the truck and check for air bubbles is the line, if you have bubbles then you need to find the source of the air. If there is no bubles but no fuel, inspected the rubber lines for collapsed internal liners. b61 Fred

Hi, I have always been a Ford guy, I really like my 2000 ford superduty, That pick-up has hauled way more than it ever should have. It has always made it home. I even let Rob drive it a few times... He said it did ok. I have to watch the Pyrometer when pulling, so its kinda like driving a big truck. Fred

Paul, Nice to hear from you, From what I have seen there are 3 different styles of these things, Cast Iron, Steel, and Aluminum. This truck is a light weight truck and has the Aluminum verity. I was wanting to get the Alum. style for originality, but if I can't come up with one of those I will use two that match. I will take a picture of the cast one on the other side and post it soon, so we can compare it to the ones you have. I would like to keep it original as I can due to I think this truck is somewhat unique... I hate to use the word "rare" I believe it is a bit over used. I need to call you sometime just to say hi anyway. Fred

Hi all, I am working on the b733, I am needing a rear spring hanger for the left rear, I have a picture for the right rear. It is aluminum and my original long gone. It is for a single axle, rear suspension, rear hanger. If anyone would like to shrink the picture in my gallery and put it on the post that would be great. For some reason I cant seem to get it small enough to go on to the post. Thanks b61Fred

hi, Was the KT or KTTA Cummins engine offered in Mack trucks in that time frame. I am going to say that you are limiting this to on road tractors or straight trucks. Mack offered some very large trucks for off road and quarry work. There is a quarry in Bedford Indiana that has what they called Mountain Macks. About the only item that looks like a r model is the cab. I think they have some sort of wakashaw engine, HUGE!!!! Fred

I asked this question to several old truckers over the years, the only answers that had any logic to them were. a) the front budds were easier to balance the wheel and tire together, where as a daytons were balanced once on the truck with the spoke,hub,wheel,drum, and tire. the budds could be aluminium, thus lighter and pretty. c) as stated before the budds were more difficult to change on the rear duals than daytons, due to the lugs that hold the inside dual would corrode and turn out when tring to removed the nut for the outside wheel on. d) also said previously, daytons would hold more weight without added weight. e) trucks of the vintage sometimes were gliders or kits, If you had a old truck was daytons, and the new glider had budds on the front they were mismached, This is all heresay from guys that drove them back in the day... Take it for what it is worth. Fred

hi, Most engines are on a 4 deg. tilt, I would use a protractor with a level and find out what your angle is. If you are not sure about the 4 deg. you can check the angle of the pinion flange on the rear axle, it should be the same as the angle of your entire drive line. if you have angles that don't match you will have a viberation issue later on. As a side note, on my r 700 v8 the fan doesn't line up with the radiator very well, appers the radiator is much higher than the fan, Fan runs directly on a shaft in the front of the engine. how does your fan run, on belts or direct?