hicrop10

That is Gary Mayan in the green jacket.I saw something on the Mahan Foundation page on FB.

I will take you up on that Mike.I’ll let you know let you know when I can get out there.

Matt,here in se pa we have a restoration supply shop by the name Eastwood,great place.They have a product they claims it will prevent surface rust for up to a year.On the rain gutter if I could get 2 pieces I think that would be the quickest fix.

Looking for anyone that has a junk b model cab.I need about a6-8” piece of the rain gutter?

Needs some help here.I know there are some of you that have done body and paint work.I’m basically hand sanding the cab of my b87 tractor.I have a picture of some of the sanding I’ve done,my question is am I wasting my time or am doing good.I would like to give the body and paint guy a sanded cab and fenders.Would like to save money on some of the prep work and spend it on the paint,I won’t be priming and thing so he sees what he’s getting no hidden secrets.What’s everyone thinking?

Well I’ve started the process.I am using a 80 grit sanding disc to get all the heavy rust off then in all the tight areas I do it by hand.I see a lot ding and small dents that I didn’t see before.

Mark T,that’s what I was going to do it really helps the stripper do it thing,considering how diluted these chemicals today are.

Tks,going to try the round stock,there is no rust at all.

1961h67,do you recall the name of the paint stripper you used?

The rain gutters that run along the top of the doors,has anyone removed them before?Mine has a little damage,looks like they are spot welded like everything else.Thinking if I can’t straighten them out will cut the bad area out and just replace.

That’s kinda the way I’m going the heavy items will be blasted.I am going to buy a new sand blast cabinet to do all the smaller parts.

I have been researching my options,and from the feedback here.I think I’m gonna go the route of chemical stripping.Will first use a stripper in the areas that have paint,then use Eastwood Itch to remove the surface rust.In the area that I can’t get to dur to cracks and so forth I may use the blaster using walnut shells or something that is less damaging to the metal,but that won’t be till spring.Keep your options coming in.I want to do this right,the truck has been in the family since new.I would like to say it will be at Macungie this year but that not likely,it’s always nice to dream.Will keep the updates coming.

Vald,the reason for all the rust is that the cab was stored on the truck with a cover over it.Now the cab will be kept inside out of the weather.I’m laid off from work now and recovering from a heart attack so I do have the time to do what I’m doing.The truck is still stored outside with a tarp over it. I have been looking for a place to buy and build a garage to store it inside but haven’t had any luck.I’m not to fond of renting,cause you are always under the renter rules,he shows up one day and gives you a week to move out he’s sold the property,which happen to me.Just tired of moving it from one place to another place.I am looking at a house that has a 3 car garage with it, that will be coming on the market.My throughts are to rent the house out and use garage for myself.

My goal is to hand sand the complete cab and get some primer on it to prevent and more flash rusting.Then when I’m ready to send it off to a body guy I may sandblast the whole thing for him so he has bare steel to start with,or what he wants.What’s everyone’s thoughts?

Well I’m back at it,haven’t made as much progress as I would have liked to in the last year and a half.Life tends to throw a curve ball at you every once in a while.Mom passed,trust me when I say that came out of the blue. Got the truck in a safe spot where I can work on it.I got the cab off and in my shed where I’m hand sanding it.All the rust you see is just surface rust.Anyone know of of a good primer I can put on after the hand sanding to prevent any more surface rust.

Looking down through the rear window the bolt on the left side does go through and protrudes out the bottom.The one on the right does line up going to play with it a little in the next couple of days.

The pictures are switched.

Here’s the pictures,1st is looking down from inside of cab,2rd is looking up from bottom.I can get the holes to lineup on the left side in the first picture.I am wondering if it just easier to cut out the whole mount area and replace it with a better one or to try and get the holes to lineup.

mattb73lt,I am talking about the 2 mounts in the back.The 2 holes on top in the back don’t quite line up with the 2 on the bottom of the cab.I will walk out to the garage and get a picture of what I’m talking about.Been laid up last couple of days been in the hospital with some heart issues.

I am in the very slow process of restoring my 64 B873SX.My question to all of you is are the cab mounts the same on the B80’s and the B61’s? I am mostly interested in the back 2,seems like the holes that go through the cab don’t quite line up with the holes in the plate on the bottom of the cab.I have access to a good cab off of a b61.

Did you try tapping the s/p switch with a hammer? It may be stuck.

I’m up here in Philadelphia just where is his show?

Mowerman,you talked about seeing a Sunoco tanker spinning his wheels trying get out of the station.The problem they had was that the back rear was dead.They had problems even when they weren’t in snow the back rears were dead.Here in PA they would send them tractors to Florida for the winters,one of their drivers were telling me.

I think I have a piece of sales literature on these in my collection.

First I’ve made up a fuel cap so I can put some pressure say about 5-8lbs of air and see if there’s and small pin holes.