rhasler

So there is no way to get access to the troubleshooting info?

Mack Dealers have to use a computer program called Premium Tech Tool that is available to customers. The program has an application inside it called Guided Diagnostics to troubleshoot various problems. As far as paper literature is concerned there is not much available to customers. The online manual linked to earlier is a free download from Mack and may help if you're having a problem with a US07 truck.

Does anyone have a list of fault codes for the new epa 07 engines. I know it is built in to the software, but has anyone complied a list?

Go here: http://www.macktrucks.com/default.aspx?pageid=2091 and find 8-218 2007 Emissions Standard Fault Code Manual

Damn! this ones right up my alley! really like the 700 series,not crazy about the cummins,but.......looks to be "do-able" though think the 140K is a misprint? if its not then this tractor is barely broke-in!.......Mark

But how many hours on it? That has to be wrong.

I was going to do this earlier but I forgot until reading B67 Bulldog's post so here it is:

HAPPY FATHER'S DAY ALL YOU MOTHERS!

Seriously though, happy father's day

Great story. Looks to be in good shape. My dad was given a B by one of our customers that was all torn up. It was brought to our shop and sat for a bit. I was suprised at all the people that recognized it immediately. One day my Proto tool salesman came to drop something off and he says "Hey, that's my dads truck.". He hated the truck though because his dad made him wash and polish it all the time when he was a kid. Good to see that you got it back home. A good way to remeber him on Father's Day.

What exactly are you looking for? Do you need to know which fuse goes where, or do you need to know what each fuse is for? There are a couple of different fuse panels, a chassis serial number will help us find what you need.

Awhile back I had my cam reground in my 1994 E-7 400, one of the lifters went bad. The motor had a Dynatard on it and I replaced it with a Jake. From what I gather that cam was ground for a Dynatard from the factor. Now the problem I have is seems the Jake does not work like it does on my 2000 V-MAC III, which was built from the factory. It seems to work as good as the Dynatard did, which was not that good. I set the valves as I should for a Jake, but when I turned over the motor to go to the next valve in order, I went back to the other valves that I already set, and it seemed they were really loose ( like they were going to make noise, but they didn't) I was wonding if the valves should be set differently? I went over the valves twice to make sure I did them right and I'm sure I did. Could the settings on the Jake be tightened up to make the Jake work better? Like say .060" I have the setting on the slave piston set at .080" as per Jacobs installation chart. Oil pressure is 30lbs @ idle and 60lbs. @2000RPM. The Jake I used was a new set-up, so I don't think it needs to be rebuilt. Model is a 680B

It sounds like you already know this, but it can't hurt to check. The valves should be adjusted cold (temperature stabilized below 100 degrees) and static (engine stopped) in firing order 153624. Valves are adjusted at 30 degress after TDC. Make sure to use the correct valve set marks on the flywheel. It will take two complete revolutions of the engine to adjust all of the valves. Intake valve lash is .016" exhaust is .024". Later camshafts (1996 and later I believe) had different valve settings for the exhaust valves. The exhaust valves on the later cams were adjusted to .028".

There was a campaign several years ago that covered maybe a dozen trucks in the world. They were built with insuffucent spring brake systems. One of the trucks was in our area and it was a pump unit. The truck was so big that it wouldn't fit in the shop. It seems like that would have been indication enough to Mack that 30" spring chambers weren't big enough. If I recall correctly all four chambers had to be replaced with 30/36 chambers. You're right about the way these things are spec'd, they always seem too light.

I was wrong. It was 551 chassis and I think most of them were campaigned due to aux. axles installed after the trucks were manufactured. When Mack sells these trucks to outfitters like Schwing it seems like they would realize what it was going to be used for.

Every pump truck on the planet gets speced with a 9 speed and the wrong engine don't know why that is!We had a pump in the other day with a power complaint It came down to the fact it had a 9sp no selection to keep the thing in the power band! some one really needs to get there shit together when specing these! Another bitch I have with them is specing pumps with 24 type brake pots all the way around,The heaviest peice of equipment on the claim and we spec it with 24 brake chambers Not very bright.Ive seen this alot As far as I am concerned it should be illegal to have small chambers on anything speced for a pump rig heavy by design.

There was a campaign several years ago that covered maybe a dozen trucks in the world. They were built with insuffucent spring brake systems. One of the trucks was in our area and it was a pump unit. The truck was so big that it wouldn't fit in the shop. It seems like that would have been indication enough to Mack that 30" spring chambers weren't big enough. If I recall correctly all four chambers had to be replaced with 30/36 chambers. You're right about the way these things are spec'd, they always seem too light.

Thanks for reply. I thought it would be that time. So I guess it will be about 8hrs for me as I've never done this.

rhasler, can you get any and all info that you can acquire from Mack on this rebuild?

I have the SB for this truck and all info from Jacobs, anything from Mack would be nice. Plus I just like to read all I can pertaining my truck.

Thanks agian for all your help.

The info from Jacobs Vehicle Systems is all there really is as far as the Jake is concerned. The valve adjustment procedure should be in your owner's manual. Key things to watch for are that you properly torque all fastners, especially the valve yoke (aka the crosshead or valve bridge) to the proper torque. Do not apply torque to the valve yoke nut while on the head unless you hold it still with a wrench (that way the valve stems do not get bent-you definetly don't want that). I would replace the exhaust valve yoke adjusting screws to insure they are the current and much higher quality screws. Update the nuts for the valve yokes to the 142GC242 flange jam nuts and tighten to 33 lb ft. Update the intake valve adjusting screw jam nuts to 142GC243 nuts and torque to 40 lb ft. Do not over torque the exhaust valve adjusting screw jam nuts, tighten them to 40 lb ft. also-if overtightened thay can break/split resulting in excess valve lash when the screw begins to loosen off. Make sure you have the right tools before tearing into the Jake. You need some way to compress the slave piston spring, Jake makes a tool for this, but I can't see spending the money to only use it once or twice. You will also need a small pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap rings. I would suggest getting the overhaul kit prior to tear down so you can determine which tools you will need to buy/borrow.

According to what I've read I think I was supposed to have a 4-9 code but so far there's no code so maybe as you guys say the sensor is bad. My fuel mileage went up on average about 1.25 mpg and I have slightly more power.

4-9 is for the EGR valve. 5-8 and 5-9 are for the mass flow sensors. The VMAC III manual doesn't say these will derate the enging when set and I can't remember if they do. I suspect that when the faults set normally the engine ecu has no idea how much EGR is going into the engine so it starts actuating the valve, this causes all kinds of weird engine behavior due to increases in EGR gas introduced into the cylinders. With the plate installed I think it (the engine ecu) is doing the same thing, but since the valve is blocked off the gas can't get back to the cylinders. This also helps explain a modest power boost, since the valve is closed off there is more exhaust gas pressure in the manifold causing the turbo to spin faster. Of course this is all hypothetical and it still doesn't explain why you have no codes set.

Mack Product Improvement Campaign PI0550 paid 1.2 hours, but did not require the same amount of disassembly. I would guess somewhere in the range of 3-4 hours to rebuild both housings and adjust the valve yokes, valves, and engine brake settings if you are reasonably comfortable with making those adjustments.

That's why ya keep stuff in your wife's name. When the SHTF and the "company" is fined heavily, you act surprised like you had no idea what she was doing behind the scenes, get a divorce because you "just don't know who she is anymore", find a gullible new "sweet young thing" to marry and start another corporation in her name to repeat the process. You are "just an employee of the company", so you get away with it.

It's all good

It souns like you've been down this road before.

According to what I've read I think I was supposed to have a 4-9 code but so far there's no code so maybe as you guys say the sensor is bad. My fuel mileage went up on average about 1.25 mpg and I have slightly more power.

I guess that means if it is broke don't fix it. That's a pretty big increase.

Did anyone try putting the plate in to block the EGR yet? 40,000 miles on running mine blocked and fuel mileage is up and throwing no codes so the test goes on.

I've read your other posts about this and can't figure out why it would work unless your mass air flow tube had bad sensors in it that were feeding the mass flow ecm bad information. Maybe you got lucky and got some parts that were "bad" in just the right way!

pulled the panel off to access the squirrel cage fan and the coils. first thing i noticed was a plastic insulator from a wire that had been melted off. it came off a ground wire from the cage fan. then i noticed a plug that had been poorly bypassed with a split wire and eletrical tape. i am assuming the ground wire got hot and it was next to the plug so it got the electrical tape hot and it came loose, then the wire vibrated out and the plug was no longer bypasses. i re bypassed the plug and i had fire back to the clutch and low pressure switch. i added another ground wire and it seemed to help with the ground wire getting hot!! glad to have it fixed for now.

what causes a ground wire to over heat??

thanks for your help

Glad you got it working. There are a number of things that could cause your wiring to overheat. Loose connections at a ground will cause this to happen because it increase the resistance in the circuit.

Here is the information from the service bulletin I mentioned earlier. I don't know how well this works as I have not put a windshield in in quite some time. This is Mack Trucks prescribed method for windshield installation in these chassis. Also, follow Rob's advice and make sure all of the parts are clean and rust free before starting.

SB 631-001.pdf

SB 631-001 describes the method used for installing windshields in MRU, LEU, RD, RB, DM, DMM, LE, and MR chassis. I will see if I have a copy to post.

rhasler,

coud you repost or email me that diagram with what you are talking about circled or a big arrow pointing to it? i dont see the item to the left of the blower motor on the diagram. i know this is like pulling teeth and i apologize, if you dont know, you dont know!

thanks.

skylerhays@gmail.com

No Problem.

Air Conditioning Diagram.pdf

Here is a diagram for a CH/CL from 2000 without APADS diagnostic module. This is most likely the way your truck is wired. If you follow the wiring from the A/C compressor back you will see that it goes through the HVAC panel. On the diagram, to the left of the blower motor, there is an item that is not labeled. This is the freeze switch (aka thermocouple). It opens and closes depending on the temperature of the evaporator core in order to cycle the compressor clutch in and out so as to keep the system from freezing up. If it is open all the time the compressor clutch will not recieve power from fuse 28. The freeze switch is located in the HVAC panel behind the controls. There should be a long flexible shaft on the end of the switch that is pushed into the evaporator core.

Air Conditioning Diagram.pdf

If it's leaking on the driver's side it is probably coming from the mating surface between the carrier & the housing. The cover you refer to has to be removed , there are two bolts inside the carrier housing. Check these and hopefully your axle housing isn't cracked

While you're under the truck check all of the torque rod bolts, especially where they mount to the side of the frame rail. I Believe the transverse torque rod is used on suspensions heavier than 38,000 lbs. The bolts will become loose over time and can result in cracks to the frame rail. This in turn can cause the bolts inside the carrier housing to stretch resulting in leaks at the axle housing flange.

By the way rhasler, is there an easy way to tell what size rears these are or do you have to cross ref. the numbers on the rears?

If they are Mack rears (top loaded carriers) the model and ratio are stamped or matrix printed on the right side of the carrier. It is on the flat area on the passenger side of the carrier.

Wondering if someone out there can tell me where the normal problem area's are with the camelback rears for leaking. have a 97 rd688s tri axle dump i just got. worried about the rear leaking. I know mack's leak but just a little concerned that some companies might not let me into there quarry with this leak. Wondering if someone could tell me where the normal area's are for leaks and what is the best fix. I have not really cleaned it and kept an eye on it to see where it is coming from. Bare with me as I dont know all the part names. But I cannot tell if it is coming from where the carrier bolts into the rear housing itself or it is coming from a plate that is on the side of the carrier. But I am going to have to address this soon. If I had a diagram I am sure my mechanic friend and I could do something with it, but cannot find any diagrams. Any help appreciated.

If it's leaking on the driver's side it is probably coming from the mating surface between the carrier & the housing. The cover you refer to has to be removed , there are two bolts inside the carrier housing. Check these and hopefully your axle housing isn't cracked

Thats the one, I test drove one of the Visions, and I noticed the Lightning bolt was on. The CH i'm looking at, it was not on, just the antilock light. The vision was 427hp and 13 speed, but I didn't notice a significant difference in power between it and the 380hp CH axle foward model.

Generally the newer the truck, the more that light is on. Sometimes it's something small, sometimes it's something big.

He wouldn't know, he bought 10 or 15 Ch's and visions from a company in Georgia I think. I looked at that when I LOOKED AT IT AS I'v had problems with the heads breaking off the bolts on my ISM cummins ehaust manifold causing gasket failure. This one is OK right now. Anything else I need to look for? I noticed that the anti lock light os on, but my International does the same. Whats the deal on the charge light staying on with many CH's and CHU's?

Do you mean the lightning bolt? That is the electronic malfunction light, like a check engine light, but not specifically related to the engine.