rhasler

Being an 03 model, I assume just plain E7 Mack with 9 Speed maxiorque behind it. Thats a heck of a lot better than my little cummins rated at 1300ft/lbs!

2002 emissions certification started at this time. An E7 is a Mack engine with 728 CID. As such, there are several "subcatgories" of the E7. A CH 613 manufactured in 2003 might have either the ASET AC (still an E7) or the E-Tech CCRS (also an E7). I'm guessing that it probably is an ASET AC. If it is, and you're still thinking of buying it, check the exhaust manifold and turbo for leaks (check carefully for soot at the #3 and #4 exhaust ports on the head). Check with the seller and find out if the manifold studs, exhaust manifold, and turbo have been replaced.

Thanks for the info, I'll see if our parts guys can keep a kit or two.

One of our customers is in the process of replacing a set right now. According to the newest KSA the kit is the 301SQ53, but supposedly this fits all of the FXL axles from 12,000 to 23,000 lbs. I remembered reading this recently, so I checked on the Stemco Kaiser website but didn't find a kit before loosing my internet connection. Did your parts department find a kit?

Huss has been a pain to get a hold of !I beleive we have found some one to supply Compeditive? duno? ! ?? Donalson has one and they are our filter supplier ,but KW was on the ball and got an exclusive contract so we can't buy there with out going to a KW dealer that puts us at a disadvantage price wise.A real rock and a hard place!I asked Barry a while back if he new of a supllier but Huss was the only one he new of and You guys down south haven't needed to retro fit yet! Guess we are the guinea pigs on this round.I hate this emmions shit with a passion it's cause the most unreliable peices of junk to be produced in along time. and now were going to screw up something that was once depenable with an add on.

GREAT !

I can't really say I know what you mean, but I have a pretty good idea. Do you compete with Inland KW?

I was at Mack Baltimore, that kit is $450, kinda high if it recommended every 150k. Also I have that SB 266-017 and have not seen part# 4559-31180. I'm going to try and get parts elsewhere.

Can you tell when my engine was built?(1m1aa13y91w139664) My number on valve cover in unreadale. Do I have a 690,690a,or 690b? This is driving me nuts.

Thanks for your help.

The certification year for your engine (if original) is 2001. The original engine serial number is 1A0831. The 4559-31180 is listed in the bulletin under tune up kits. It covers all three versions of the brake assembly. That price does seem high, but its been awhile since I priced one.

Ok thanks seems getting the engine up to the 427 range, would probalbly be more expensive than it would be worth. Do you have any idea what the torque on this engine would be. I have an 03 Int that is 385hp and 1300ft/lbs, but the truck has 2.79 rears. I am trying to figure if I would be better off with the Mack even though it has slightly less horsepower. I think this truck has around 3.50-3.80 rears since it is a maxicruiser. It felt better driving it, but then again, it was not loaded when I did. Any thoughts?

Do you know if the Mack has the ASET AC engine with VGT turbo and EGR? I think it should, but it doesn't hurt to check. The 355/380 ASET AC should have 1,560 lb.ft. torque at 1,100 rpm.

O.K. so i put my 2cents in too quick. today i drove my friends truck it also has a 485mp8 and his dog must have parvo or something. it doesnt have anywhere near as much power as mine and they are speced the same. i also noticed that when pulling a hill loaded and the pedal on the floor the truck would smother and sound like it was back fireing but if you only mash it only about 3/4 of the way it would run better. we changed fuel filters /air filters yesterday when the trucks were serviced. but i didnt help. he has been saying this about this truck for a while but we thought he was joking about the truck. can anyone tell me how to clear the codes or at least get them to flash so we can put them on here and get some help for the truck. the truck is a 09 Granite.. joe

Is there an active fault code? If you have a DID (driver information display) switch (looks like a turn signal switch, but on the wrong side of the steering wheel) you should be able to access the fault codes. If there is no DID switch there should be a small button in the center of the dash cluster that you can push and hold momentarily that will display fault code numbers. The faults are displayed as a set of three numbers, not as flashes. There will be an MID number (probably 128, 142, or 144) to indicate the ecu reporting the fault. The next number will be a PID, SID, PPID, or PSID to indicate the subsystem of the ecu that is faulted (for instance injectors), and the third is an FMI that indicates the failure type (an open circuit, voltage shorted high, voltage shorted low, mechanical failure, etc). Record all three numbers. If you have your operators manual that was in the truck when new this information should be in it.

In some respects the laws are as strict, as I posted earlier this month the province has decided that any 89 to 93 unit has to have a dpf fitted to it as of october or you will not be able to licence it.

That sucks. So are you guys set up with Huss or someone else to install the DPF kits?

Thanks for the responses. The problem was a harness issue. There was a short in the dome light wire. The following codes were present- 6- SID231 FMI8 15X EECU, 6-4 SID FMI 8 3X VECU, MID136 SID231 FMI8 ABS. Followed service bullitin SB221032 cleaned power and ground connections and measured voltage drop. Contacted Mack tech support and was instructed to follow ABS J1939 Data cable. Found a chaffed and shorted wire under dash along side of J1939 data link. Repaired wiring and ran a new J1939 data cable overlay harness linking the ABS,VECU AND EECU together. Wired in and secured. I put on about 3k since repair and the truck is functioning properly. Hope this will help someone in the future.

Glad you got it fixed. It's sounds like you probably didn't have to spend too much to fix it either.

........And the paint color!

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That too! Have you seen the version that Renualt has?

I highly doubt they would have any say over a truck that old!

If the truck was still under warrenty then yes there would be limitations!

I've actually had Mack tell me components like the rear ends & clutch had to be replaced with heavier parts when moving from an AMI370 to AI460 of this vintage about 2 years ago, well out from under warranty. I prefer going through Mack and getting their appproval on the upgrade for two reasons:

#1 If the drivetrain shells out because the customer was made aware of the required upgrades but chose not to install them then I'm covered

#2 By installing the parts to change the engine horsepower per Mack the emissions certification is ok. This keeps the customer, me, and my employer out of trouble with the EPA, I can't afford that kind of trouble.

fjh, aren't you in Canada? What are the rules like up there? I mean are there different emissions levels in different provinces where some are stricter than others, like California here is?

Unfortunately they are. There are some brand specific differences between the Volvo D11/Mack MP7, Volvo D13/Mack MP8, and Volvo D16/Mack MP10 but they share the same block. There are other shared components between Volvo and Mack as well, besides the engine.

Just to clarify, the MP7 and D11 are the same base engines, the MP8 and D13 are the same base engines, and the MP10 and D16 are the same base engines. Supposedly the software in the ecu is the big difference.

There was no metal builders plate inside the drivers door, only. A faded sticker i could not read. Did I miss it somewhere?

It could be that the driver's door has been replaced and the tag wass not transferred to the new door. Look on the right frame rail for the vin number.

Hey, everybody!

Last time I posted, 'way back in May, I asked if ANYONE had any information, preferably pictures, of a NJ company that was active back in the '70's, STANDARD CONTAINER TRANSPORT CORPORATION, later STANDARD SPECIAL HAULING. I know they had at least one large Dog, I was thinking maybe an M75, but I think I read somewhere that it was an M45. Anyway, after I posted, I failed to check back for replies. Now, the format seems to have changed, and I have NO idea where to look. I know this is off the Wyoming Mack thing, but any help would be appreciated. About all I remember about them was a couple of ads in TRANSPORTATION ENGINEER magazine and that they came into existence about the time Hoffman and Gerosa were the big dogs (and had THE BIG DOGS) in NY and NJ. I'm still new at this, so be nice!

Thanks for the help.

I think if you use the search box at the top of the screen to search for your user name you can find the original post.

Can anyone out there tell me if the HP can be increased on an E7 engine via the computer? We are looking at buying this truck, but the HP is only rated at 355/380, whatever that means! Also the top road speed on the truck is only 65mph. I called Mack dealer and they said that to increase the road speed is no problem, and would only cost about $100 bucks, but to increase the HP on the engine might be as high as $2500. Reason being that the heads might have to be changed. I thought the beauty of the ECM's were that HP, Torque and road speeds were adjustable using computer programs. Does anyone have any info on this?

Thanks

The engine is a dual horsepower rating. At cruise speed it runs at the lower horsepower, and uprates when pulling. What you were told is technically correct. Road speed reprogramming is no big deal. Changing horsepower can cost a lot of money because it requires several component changes. Your engine might require new injector, turbo, and the like, depending on what it is stepped up to. Mack has to approve a horsepower changeover. If you go above a certain horsepower they (Mack corporate) will tell you that you need to install an oil cooler for the transmission, a higher rated clutch, and possibly heavier differentials. What they tell you to change is dependent upon horsepower & gcvw. You would probably be able to step up to a 380/410 engine without the changes to chassis components. I would have to look at the tune up specs to see if there are different injectors & turbo for it.

Looks like he was here earlier tonight

While you're into the engine check the hydraulic lash adjusters on the exhaust rocker arms for sticking/binding.

Rob, your axles are from before my time, so I'm not sure what kingpin kits fit. I may be able to get a few pages of information from an old Mack master manual if you need. Let me know.

How hard are the pins to get out in an FA-505, and FA-522 front axle? I've never pulled tapered pins before. The damned straight pins with a draw key can be a real bitch sometimes and I'm just wondering if I should build me a little press cause I really don't swing a sledge anymore.

Rob

Usually not too bad. I use a 1"-1 1/4" drift welded to a long handle to knock them out, that way no one's hands are in harm's way. Have someone hold it for you and swing away! You probably know this, but just in case you don't, you need to seat the pin in the axle when you go back together with it. The best way I have found is to place the steering knuckle on the axle and get the pin in position, then jack up under the pin so all of the weight of the front of the truck is pushing down. After doing that smack the axle with a large sledge hammer. I usually repeat this 3-4 times to make sure the pin is tightly wedged in the eye of the axle. If it isn't the pin falls down and allows the steering knuckle to wear against the top of the axle eye. That will ruin an axle in pretty short order.

You can buy them at Napa as well! Also not being an arse but the centramax was introduced on the 4 valve E6.The best thing since sliced bread for getting crap out of the oil ,in my opinion

Yet another good Idea thrown out the window by the Volvo people! If they didn't think of it its not a good idea! Its really to bad these guys didn't take a good look at what they inherited and examine the some of the good property's and ideas that were incorporated in it!

It did start with the E6. I think the reason they aren't used on the MP series engines is that there isn't enough room for them, or maybe it was because they couldn't come up with a way for it to break and set a fault code every other day!

when were they used, on what, and how much and where can I get one? Oh, and are the cartridges still available at a reasonable price?

Mack used the Centrimax centrifugal oil filter from the introduction of the E7 PLN (manual and electronic inline pumps) through the MP7 US04 Emission engines. There are several variations of the filter now, I can count 5, but there may be more. I believe the Mack filter is made by Mann & Hummel, but there are several filter manufacturers that also ssell them (Fleetguard, Baldwin, etc.).

Hey All,

Posted on other area's with some issues that I was able to fix on my own with help from the guys here. Hoping you could help with one more issue. Finally got tags for truck and is on the road now. 97 mack rd688s tri axle dump with e7 350. I was driving it over to a guy to have some spots welded on the body and my wife was following me. She said that it seemed like most every time I shifted gears but always on intially taking off from start, that it was puffing some dark smoke. I really could not see much as stack is on passenger side above mirror. before i bought it, i saw it come in to yard a couple times while someone else was driving it and i did not notice much smoke at all, but she is saying that it was definately puffing out smoke. It was dark smoke she said which has me a little concerned. The truck only says 379,000 but and the engine looks in good condition. I know this could be a fuel issue or possibly injectors. What do you guys think could be the culprit here. I definately dont want to hear the big "O" word, not yet atleast until I get this thing making some money. Any help is appreciated.

Have you changed oil and filters yet? It could be an air cleaner. That's probably one of the easiest and cheapest things to check. Also, did it start after reconnecting the Jake?

Hello, I see. thankyou, and where does it go exactly? where do I get a diagram from? at the moment I have all these parts and no diagram of where they go. there is a heap of them.

Grant

For someone with the ambition to do what you are doing the Bendix website is a great resource. See the Bendix document library here: https://www.bendix.com/en-us/service/library/Pages/Home.aspx

On this page are the Bendix Quick Reference Guide and the Bendix Air Brake Handbook. These have a lot of general information that is helpful when identifying valves & other components. You can also search the document library for SD-03-4508. SD-03-4508 is the service data sheet for the SR-1 Spring Brake Valve. The data sheet gives general information and piping instructions.

Hi, whats this valve and where does this go?

Grant

It appears to be a spring brake control valve. The following description is from the Mack Air and Brake System Manual 16-104:

The spring brake control valve directs a specific amount of " hold-off " pressure (about 95 psi) to the spring brake chambers to cage the compression springs and release the spring brakes. In the event of a primary system pressure loss, the valve allows a graduated application of the spring brakes through a treadle valve application, to bring the vehicle to a safe stop. Spring brake control valves are used in all truck applications, and may be used in some tractor applications.

TRUCKNUT YOUR THE MAN BABY!!!!! You hit the nail right on the head. The speedometer sensor was the problem it was melted I went to the dealer they gave me a new one and the light is off and she runs good.

Now if i can only make up the work I missed for 6 day's.

Thanks again.

Mark

You may want to take it to a Mack dealership and have them turn off the parameter that detects tampering with the speedometer sensor so that the truck doesn't derate for the same problem in the future

Im just wondering if when the dash was apart if the speedo sensor got damaged.I'm not at all familar with the dash components.

As far as my speedometer light that light is on circuit #3. How do I check the curcuit??

The sensor for the speedometer is on the transmission, not the dash. The 4-1 code will not set if there is a problem in the dash since that is a different circuit from the speedometer. Remove the sensor from the output shaft bearing cover on the rear of the transmission and check the sensor for damage.

Circuit #3 powers dash & marker lamps. If your other dash lamps and marker/running lamps are operational it's probably just the bulb. I believe your truck should have a small solid state rectangular telltale between the speedometer guage & the tachometer guage. If it's damaged you'll probably need to change it.