rhasler

After seeing northwoodsrepair's post and Mark's pictures of the AB I though about this truck and thought you guys might like seeing it. While I was walking my dogs to the park this morning I snapped some pictures of it. At one point it belonged to our shop and was used as a picnic table during open houses. I believe it was a running truck until someone decided to "restore" it by tearing the engine apart and creating an unrecognizable jumble of parts. It was later sold to a man named Chip, who, as far as I know, still owns it. I remember this truck from when I was a wee lad but can't recall for sure when it was built. I want to say 1929 but I could be wrong. Hope you enjoy!

heh heh heh,,cant help it, thas just funny! Im gonna start calling you comedian rhasler.

I don't know if that will work or not, being as I'm less funnny than I am funny looking. If you insist I suppose "Self Deprecating Humorist at Large" does have a certain ring to it.

are you sure its not the spinner your hearing after shutdown???????

Good call bigen. I take for granted the noise the Centrimax makes when it's spinning down. That shouldn't have anything to do with the powerloss, but maybe it's one more thing to cross off of his list of possibilities.

It sounds like randyp finished his work in the "lagoon". I think maybe he's running out of new titles for himself (although I did enjoy Climate Control Tech randy), so I came up with a new one for him. How does Excrement Excavation and Extraction Specialist sound? Maybe he could be Beautician randy, after all he knows all about the exfoliating propeties of an acid bath. Maybe Mad Scientist randy? There are still alot of possibilites out there. I hope you had fun and didn't have to wallow in it too much randyp.

Have a customer with 03 with 427 300k miles.N.J changed the law to 20% and he blew a 25%.Truck and engine in excellent condition.Just wondering what needs to be done to lower emmisions or does he have to take it to dealer to be reprogrammed.He's running stock no mods.Injectors were replaced about 50k ago.

If you have a VIN in the truck I can check to see how it's programmed. About this time frame Mack got real stingy about this information so its hard to tell what some of the files in it are, but I can check and see if it's been programmed before. There may be some changes in the software that improve certain emission characteristics, but you're probably right in taking it to a dealer to have it checked out. If there isn't anything mechanically wrong with the engine maybe Mack needs to come up with a new software fix.

Thanks , that is a big help. The daytime running lights are not working and in this province we must have them or your lights on . I forgot twice going over the scale plate! By the way , do you know what the fuse panel in the drivers side bunk door is for? When I turn the bunk lights on or use the plugs , they come on and then fade out right away. There is a relay in it which I think might be bad. Thanks for the help.

The Daytime Running Lamp module is in the main fuse panel, top row, fourth position from the left (right next to the studs in the center of the panel). The fuses in the bunk should be the bunk fuses/breakers.

It didnt take long to clear up that question. Today when I was asking around in person I seen one of those gear charts bollweevil speaks of but the man only had one and no copy machine and when I asked to leave with it to go make some copies, " even some extras for him " you would have thought I asked for the key to his saftey deposit box. The reason I want to change goes as follows. I have a nine speed fuller that I have researched on and found out that top gear is .7 something and I have 4.78 rears best I can read the dots on the housing and my truck tacks high and runs slow everywhere I go. Well I want to change to something like a 3.90 ratio and I want to put a 13 back box on my transmission that if my research is correct ends up with almost the same top gear ratio of .7 something but will allow me to split high range gears to keep my pulling power but once i get to crusing speed in top gear, my revs will be a little lower and also let me go faster should the need arise because now it tacks out at about 71 or 72 MPH. Back to the man with the chart, he told me that I could leave my bull gear and the shaft gear alone (( he said I had a 14 - 51 )) and change my ring and pinion to 16 - 17 and this would give me as close as I can get to 3.90 without changing the bullgear and shaft. Using the math above I get 3.86 ratio which is only .04 from a perfect 3.90 I was shooting for. Let me know what ya'll think. Also, does anyone have a gear chart they can post or a link to one that can be printed off? Come on bollweevil, you know you have one somewhere!!!! Yall let me know if I'm headed in the right direction. Thanks everyone for all the great info!

It sounds like you're headed in the right direction.

Sorry it took me so long , I have a baby comming and doing renos to the house. The vin number is 1M2AA13Y4TW058280.

It is a 96 ch613. I need to know what all the slots are for an what the relays are for and what size fuse they require. The Mack dealer cannot get anythin at all.

Congratulations and good luck. I hope this helps, it may be a little hard to read. I don't have the relay assignments.

Fuse Panel and Application.pdf

We had I think 4 sets of gears for our 80K rears when we put them in our DM800. If memory serves me correctly, the ratio change was done with the first two gears, and the bull gear stayed the same. I know for a fact we didn't have any spare bull gears laying around cause we had to get new ones the two times we broke axle shafts over the last 10 years. If we had them, we would have at least looked to see if they were the same.

We had the extra gears because the truck the 80s were in originally had several different transmission changes over the years, and the previous owner had to play with the ratio in the rears to get the road speed where they wanted it, and we did the same thing when we put them in our DM to get 45 MPH against the governor.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression as well that the bull gear was the same, regardless of what the actual overall ratio would be, at least in regards to Mack, Dual reduction, top loaded carriers of the same weight capacity.

-John

There are a few different bull gears. Regarding the CRD92/93 series and 112/113 (these are the same differentials except that the 112/113 has a coarser spline on the side gears that drive the axle), there are gears with 51, 52, 54, and 55 teeth. What Bollweevil is saying is correct. You need a carrier chart to determine which gears are compatible. By changing the tooth count on one gear it is possible to change the entire overall ratio. The Mack differential (I assumed this is what gumbie was referring to) is a dual reduction carrier. The first set of gears (the bevel pinion gears in the top of the differential) provide the initial reduction, the lower gear set made up of the spur shaft and the bull gear provide the second reduction. If the differential was a planetary differential, say an SR70/80 differential (manufactured by Renault) it would be necessary to also calculate the gear reduction provided by the hub units as well to calculate the overall differential gear ratio. Mike is right that the engine's torque curve as well as the transmissions gear ratio needs to be taken into account to achieve the best fuel economy. On a side note the CRD92/93 and CRD112/113 differentials are being taken out of production and are being replaced by the CRD150/151 series.

While at the local Mack dealer today, one of my buddies behind the counter (that usually groan when I walk in) told me that Mack is updating the system and that any chassis info before 1980 or 81 or so would no longer be searchable. He said they were supposed to get a CD with the older truck info on it. If anyone has any more information, please chime in. I'd like to get a copy of the CD myself just in case. I can't see anyone finding it in 5 years.

I've heard the information is suppossed to be released to dealers on an Impact DVD release also. I'm not sure how far back it will go or if it will be available to customers.

I'm interested in changing gear ratios to some higher gears and I was wanting to know if this is done by changing the top two gears by the driveshaft or the bottom two gears. I seen some gear sets on ebay that were the top two little gears and they were listed as working for 3 different ratios. Someone else told me that the big ring gear and what he called a bull gear that pulled it were all the same and the ratio came from the pinion right behind the yolk and the gear it meshed with. Is this true or is he wrong? Thanks in advance for any info!

The gear ratio is made up of all of the gears. You need to count the teeth of all of the gears and calculate the ratio. For instance if the pinion gear has 16 teeth and the spur gear that it meshes with has 17 teeth, and the spur shaft has 16 teeth and the bull gear that it meshes with has 55 teeth calculate as follows: 17 divided by 16= 1.0625, 55 divided by 16= 3.4375. These numbers are then multiplied: 1.0625 times 3.4375= 3.65234375 or 3.65 final gear ratio

rhasler >The labour on the quote looks a little out to lunch don't cha think . 24 hours seems tops in my my mind for the whole job jakes included! Don't forget your probably dealing with a service writer who is looking at two seperate operations from a book or puter screen when they are actually combined jobs.

What is their shop rate !

That's kind of what I thought, but I wasn't sure about their labor rate. It's hard to tell exactly what they are charging from the way the quote is put together. As far as the parts I think they gave a decent price on the cam but it looks like they made up for it with the labor for the engine brake.

looks like their charging for the valve cover gaskets twice.We have been just replacing the failed lifters and cam as of late Is the cam kit nesesary ?And the labor seems high 2700 maybe!

750 to rebuild 2 jakes already off the engine to do a cam,? seems a tad rich! Their shop rate must be in outer space!

Get em to quote the hours!

I'd price around a bit ! If your able!

Sorry QC, when I looked at this earlier I thought it said $754.00 parts and labor for the engine brake. They want $754.00 just in labor? Installing the parts in the brake housings (which is what it looks like the second part of the quote is for) should take about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Bring it to their attention and see what they'll do.

Well, I decided to pick-up a trainer truck while my Mack H-67 is being restored. I realize it is not a Mack, but I would rather tear up this 1978 International Transtar II with 1980 Great Dane Trailer while learning so when the Mack arrives it can be properly cared for!

Good idea, at least if something's going to get torn up it won't be the Mack! Enjoy yourself.

I agree with you 100% on the tech wizard statement. No one is a mechanic any more, there all comp techs.. I also just thought of another issue that most deff has to do with my problem. I smell and also see coolant (very slightly) around the head area,and when I shut down the truck, there is a noise that sounds like a quick burst of air from a balloon you pulled to tightly..(if that makes any sence to you)....I apreciate all the suggestions of EVERYONE who responded to this post,and please keep the ideas comming as I will be trying all of them. And if anyone knows of a competant mechanic in the NYC area,please give me there info!! Thank you

The coolant might be coming from the thermostat housing to water manifold joint, possibly from hoses, so check your hose clamps. These engine run 16 psi coolant pressure and it sometimes causes leaks at hose connections that would normally seal at 10 psi. As for your noise check the small steel braided line going from the left side of the engine to the turbo actuator. This is the line that supplies air to make the actuator move in and out. If it has a hole in it it will leak air that should be going to the actuator and possibly be causing your noise. Check the line for kinks too. There is a small filter next to the oil filters, this is the air filter for the air going to the VGT Control valve which sends air to the turbo actuator.

Hey, Im new to mack and this forum so bare with me. I recently picked up a 2006 chn613 with a e-7 427 in it. Truck currently has 290,000 miles on it. I have filed bankrupcy since buying this truck due to the crazy amount of down time and shop fee`s on chasing a problem that has never been fixed OR FOUND. Im not that truck savy on diagnostics or anything..Im a parts changer at best but I know when there is a problem. The truck has lost power problem for the past 2 years. Ok,so the boost comes up incredibly slow,(sometimes only build boost once I hit 5th gear) the boost squeals rather than has the normal high pitch clean wistle. The boost sound fluctuates up and down along with the boost gauge (back and forth from 32lbs-25lbs) rapidly. Sometime the boost will spike and hold 40lbs but makes no real power. I dont know what to do and I have alot of trouble trying to explain the problem. Has a new egr,new intercooler,new cooler plumbing,some new boost sensor (? on the driver side firewall?)injector pumps, I get alot of codes popping on the truck but none of them pan out most often is 3-4(forgot what that was) but was told by the mech that there is NO ISSUES AT ALL with the truck. Does anyone have any idea of what this could be or what I could do to check for any intake leaks or if the turbo is bad? Ill spend the money to fix it one last time, and after that if I get nothing out of it Ill have to close shop and go back to being a company man if im lucky. Please help!!!! Thanks so much for your time!!!!

In a CHN613 you should have an ASET AC (a variant of the E-Tech E7). Here are some places to check. Start by checking the exhaust manifold and turbo mounting very carefully. They are prone to breaking/loosening fasteners which causes the gaskets to burn out and will reduce boost pressure. Check all of the hoses on the pipes leading to and from the charge air cooler visually, as well as the gaskets on the intake manifold. They will be next to impossible to see, but you might find one that is blown out. You should pressurize the entire system and check for leaks with the turbo outlet plugged off. There is a small boost pressure relief valve on the venturi housing that connects to the exhaust pipe with a steel pipe. It could be damaged or not seating properly. There is an o-ring sealing the venturi to the intake manifold that could be damaged. I've never seen this happen but it probably has. Check the pipe from the EGR valve to the cooler in the area of the bellows as these sometimes break. I haven't seen it happen on one recently though.

For lube on those rubber trunnion bushings, I always put some Mr. Clean in a spray bottle, wet the bushing with the Mr Clean, then smear a coating of D&L or GoJo waterless hand cleaner on them too. That combination makes things slipperier than shit. I use that for a lube on the Chalmers suspension bushings nowadays on the Internationals where I currently work.

Regarding the camelback U bolts, I have seen them break in service, also have seen the spring box attaching bolts snap, so it's cheap insurance to use all new hardware.

.

I was mostly just trying to see if our parts man would call around to some butcher shops and grocery stores looking for mutton tallow, but only the edible kind. I thought it was funny anyway. I do the same thing with the hand soap for installing the bushings.

I would never reuse the fasteners that one's life depended upon. I'd rather refuse the work that have the liability exposure that reusing the old fasteners and Ubolts could entail.

Rob

Absolutely right, especially with U-bolts. U-bolts are typically made from a softer steel that stretches as tightened in order to provide the proper clamp load when torqued to specification. Mack also recommends a mixture of white lead and oil as a lubricant while tightening U-bolts. It should be applid to the threads of the bolt, the contacting face of the nut, and to both sides of the washer. I use anti-sieze and 15w-40 as white lead is (as far as I know) not something typically found anymore. Mack also says the rubber two piece trunnion bushing should be lubricated with "edible mutton tallow". I tried ordering some once, my request was met by blank stares.

you are very knowledgeable, have access to all manuels, allways available.

where are you located???

who do you work for????

are you a super hero for the mack truck community, to remain masked in secrecy, untill needed,

is your name really, clark kent

where do you and mackpro and fjh, get your super powers the rest of us lack???????

Heh heh... (to steal a phrase from Randyp) Bigen, this should answer most, if not all, of those questions. Just disregard the "fabulous" statement, I think it meant something different back then.

(Kind of a long video, hope I don't get in trouble.)

Hey thanks for that info will print and take to Mack. I really sucks that in my area they say Mack is a Breed of there own,

no we can't help.(makes me laugh, respect the DOG)

The pin holding lifter broke causing we'll you know.

Also how can I tell if steel or ceramic lifters? BTW 2oo1 Jan, Date truck.

I think it should have steel lifters installed from the factory but I'll have to check. Steel roller lifters look like steel (shiny metallic finish) while the ceramic lifters have a flat black appearance.

A

Finally had my Jake tune up, to find out #1 lobe is wiped. So my question is what Mack cam can I have put in?

Mine is a E-7 etech 355/380. Could I gain anything with a 410 or 460 installed?

Thanks for your help.

The cam for those engines is the same. Mackpro68 and FJH have posted before about changing the key in the cam to advance the timing. Go back and look for their posts on the subject because if you're going to do it now would be the time. I think Mackpro also recommended a place called CAMCRAFT that regrinds and builds custom cams for less tahn a new OEM cam would cost. Make sure while it's apart that the valve rotators (if they are upper rotators) are checked for broken springs. The tiny coil springs inside the rotators fracture and break and eventually work down the pushrod holes in the cylinder head to the lifters and camshaft potentially causing lobe damage. Make sure they check all of the exhaust valve yoke adjusting screws to verify that none are worn below .940" (otherwise the guide pin in the head should be replaced). Have them replace these adjusting screws and update the jam nuts. The root problem here is usually the adjusting screws, which when worn cause valve yoke balance to degrade. This pitches the yoke over to the outboard side placing a bending load on the guide pin, which can fracture and break off, as well as the upper rotators. The uneven load on the rotator breaks the spring inside into very small pieces. Many times these appear on the drain plug as small "U" shaped pieces of wire about .030-.040" in diameter.

I went back and looked. I don't see an offset urethane replacement in Euclid or PAI. Mack may have one but I'm sure it's really high priced if they do. ATRO offers an offset polyurethane insulator. The part number is MA36000-OFF. It cross refrences to several competitor numbers most of which are rubber. We use ATRO insulators pretty regularly for various applications, they seem to last pretty well and they have a good selection. Their replacement saddle bushings for torque rods and Hendrickson suspensions are excellent because the bar saddle rotates freely in the polyurethane which means you won't have to align the bar pin when pressing it into the walking beam or torque rod. I'm not sure of the price on these offsets, they're probably not cheap but they're probably worth the price.

Does anyone know if you can get the offset lower pads in urathane?I got some lower pads that was after market rubber and did not last one year. They give me new ones of the same brand and they strech in a turn bad.

I've never seen them in urethane but I've never looked.

Better safe than sorry really. If you have a manual engine fan switch, try turning it on for the extra drag on the motor...

Something I meant to say earlier is that the fan can be set to engage with the engine brake in VMAC III programmable parameters.