rhasler

Thanks I think the actual trunnions are ok But I can't find a grease sert. I could buy a big torque wrench I usually use a six foot cheater and 1 inch drive breakover for my heavy stuff and get all I can get bouncing lol. I may just get it done at the spring shop but would like to have an understanding of the process. We have a good spring shop, wander how much it will hurt my pocket?

It depends on if you use OEM or aftermarket vendor parts. You'll probably have to shop around. Here are some pictures of the trunnion setups from the Euclid parts manual so you can see the difference in them.

Trunnion Type Comparison.pdf.

What will normal re-bush cost if done in a shop verses done at home? And how much better does the truck Handel afterward?

If the metal plates in the load cushions are exposed or there are marks on the buckets caused by contact with the "T" on th espring leaf it is time to replace your load cushions. This is not a difficult job but it does require some large tools. If the trunnion bushings (bushings on the suspension crossmember between the axles) are worn it gets much more complicated. Depending on the suspension rating the u-bolts will be either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" for the 34,000-46,000 lb suspensions. These tighten down to 1,100 lbft for the 1 1/8" and 1,500 lbft for the 1 1/4". These must be tightened down or you will break spring leafs when loaded. There are three different trunnion bushing types: brass/greasable, one piece encapsulated rubber trunnion bushing, and two piece rubber trunnion bushing. If you have the brass bushing or the one piece bushing they will have to be pressed in. Also the one piece pushing can sieze to the dead axle making removal very difficult. When installing new insulators I would recommend installing urethane replacements as they seem to last much better than the current standard rubber type supplied by Mack. I will find a picture of the different trunnion bushing types so you can figure out what you have.

i didn't get manualls with this truck.

will have to try to get one.

Bigen, the manual you should be looking for is TS49407 Lubrication and Maintenance. I don't know who steals those things out of trucks but their always missing. The manual says maximum allowable engine speed is 2300 rpm in brake mode or normal power mode. I did some research on the Jake Brake's retarding power. Here's the link to the specification sheet on the model 690 that would have been on your E-tech: http://www.jakebrake.com/service/pdf2/024321.pdf. Basically it shows your retarding power vs. rpm. At 2100 rpm the Jake is retarding about 360-375 HP.

Bigen, the owner's manual has several pages of information on the engine brake. It should be pages 2-31

Mack maxitorque T 2130 extended range

Here is a shift knob piping diagram for the T2130 without compound neutralizing switch. This is the standard setup.

T2130 Shift Knob Piping.pdf

According to Mack the retarding power for your engine brake (AC460P with Mack Powerleash engine brake) should be 420 HP at 2100 rpm

Does anyone have access to a schematic for the air shifter on a 91 r model 13 speed

Is it a Mack transmission or is it a vendor transmission?

I shouldnt reveal this rhasler, but i did remotely consider the generator, window unit deal. Corp. Randy

Somehow I knew it had crossed your mind!

Well, I am bout at my limit. I am going to check on putting a roof air unit on excavator this week, just cant take the heat anymore and excavator has glass all around. I slide front window up so I can get good and dirty, lock side door open, open right side window so I can get a good fresh breeze of hot hydraulic hose heat, am at my limit! Gonna bite the bullet and check into one, if it works out right, think I may put one on "Killer B". Dozer doesnt bother me so much, its open ROPS, I can handle that better, I seem to be spending all my time on excavator and truck at this, the hottest months of year here, so you all know of any after market companies or got any ideas, please to be of advisement to me. Oh yeah and also, if you put a link here for me, please make it where it will light up so I can transfer to it, then show Mark how to properly do that, heh,,heh,,hang in there Mark,,LOL,,Randy

There is this approach.

I think Rowdy Rebel may have tried it in the past so check with him to see how it worked out.

Yes I know and plan to by weeks end. The truck is out of service until I get it all right I managed to limp home from a job but immediately started looking for the problems. I am trying to figure out why the brake button wont pop off when air gets below 25psi and was wondering if it could be this chamber also causing that. If not I was hoping to learn what was doing it, so; when I take the core back to the dealer, I could pick the chamber and whatever is not automatically setting spring brake at low air! What triggers the park brake button to pop out at low air?

It's probably a bad dash valve. This document from Bendix (http://www.bendixvrc.com/itemDisplay.asp?documentID=4572) explains the function of the dash valve. Basically the dash valve has a spring that causes the inside parts of the valve to move to the exhaust position when air pressure drops below a certain point. If your compressor was pumping oil for an extended amount of time that oil has made it through the air system to the valves and air chambers and will cause problems. The air compressor was probably the root of the problem and since you've replaced it you're done with a good part of the work. Do you have an air dryer on this truck? If the dryer cartridge is contaminated by oil it can come apart and send oilly debris through the system. Good luck.

Lol in 29 years I will be happy if I am still alive. I did not have park brake set with them set air builds a little faster but not as fast as I thought a new compressor should! I get conflicting time amounts to build full air in pretrip info does this truck need to make full air in 3 minutes or 60 seconds? The spring brake does not set at 25 psi could that be the chamber as it is on the spring brake chamber? Thanks in advance this truck is my labor savor so I need it up and running!

With the spring brake released air is SUPPLIED to the chamber to hold off the spring. If the diaphragmm is ruptured it will allow holdoff air from the spring chamber to pass through to the service side of the chamber, which will exhaust through the quick release valve. This could be the cause of your slow build up time, but even if its not, you need to get it fixed.

I called my local Mack dealer service for repairs on Friday. We talked about what needs to be done(only a half day job at worst he says)to service rep. He says Thursday open, call Monday early, if you want this appointment. So I call about 9am, to schedule repairs, appointment taken. So I drop off truck tonight, and asked again, will you get this in the shop tomorrow morning?

Answer: "We'll try. All the trucks here now are from 2-3 days ago appointments."

So why make appointments? Is this normal because of parts not available?

I was told from parts dept. all mine were in stock, because I was going to do the job myself? Do you thinks these dealers are running short inventory, causing the back log on other Mack's?

How do some of you guy's who work at the dealers, or other shops, deal with appointments?

I think part of the problem is that everyone is trying to reduce inventory of parts. Not only do the parts tie up capital, but you have to pay inventory taxes on it at the end of the year. Also, some of the parts are just not available. If a 2010 truck comes in for a warranty repair and the part takes an extra day to show up at the dealership it really throws off the work flow.

Hello friends I just put a new compressor in my 81 Mack because of oil in lines! I hope I never have to take it off again .

Just think, in another 29 years, when you have to change an air compressor on an MP8 in an old wore out GU, you'll look back at this and remember the good ole days. A leaking air chamber diaphragm will keep the compressor from building air. Remember, when appplying the spring brake you are not putting any air into the chamber. If you have the spring brake applied and it's leaking air out of the chamber you need to check further up line to find out what is supplying air to the chamber when the spring brake is set

thanks guys, no check engine light, no codes, the truck is 2004 and its good 500000 km which is arround 320000 miles, can it be reprogrammed? has anyone done it?

That would be my suggestion. Take it to a dealership and have them get the most current software and datafiles enabled by Mack. You might have them check the programmed parameters to make sure everything is right. That shouldn't cost too much since no parts are involved. Did you buy it used? If so, did you change the application the truck is used in? A truck spec'd for highway service may not perform adequately for vocational use. Being an AI the truck should be set up for vocational applications, but people sometimes do strange things when spec'ing trucks.

Thanks for that. just a PIA to replace studs but not a big deal. Wonder why Mack parts didn't tell me this when I purcahsed manifold section. did get new bolts for turbo as center section bit the dust. Course they can't even tell upgrades avail. for truck. "Whats in the build sheet, is what I can give you"

Sounds like my parts department. The part number nut for the manifold I would use is 142GC35M. It is a spiralock thread with a serrated flange. These nuts are silver in color instead of the originals which were copper colored. You might want to check your invoice and make sure that the manifold gaskets you bought were part number 573GB257A (this number may change also, I'm not sure). These can be identified by the steel ring around the port opening. The newest ASET AC hardware will also fit but will probably cost more and I'm not sure that it would really be of much benefit on your engine. I haven't seen this hardware configuration cause much trouble on ASET AI engine when tightened per procedure. I usually tighten in torque sequence in stages: start at 25 lb. ft, then go to 50, 75, and 100 lb ft. Studs should prtrude from the head 1.75" in order to avoid contacting the pushrods. This will be difficult to measure with the manifold installed. There are stud removers available to remove the studs. The ones I use are Mac tools, but I think they're available at NAPA or CARQuest too. They will save you hours of labor removing studs. When installing new studs put a dab of silicone on the threads of the stud where it goes into the head to prevent oil leaks (Mackpro68 posted about this a week or so back). Apply anti-sieze to the turbo studs where they thread into the manifold. Apply a light coat of engine oil to the threads, flanges, washers, and mating surfaces of the parts prior to assembly. Attached is the torque sequence as well as a cross sectional view of the manifold and cylinder head explaining why the studs should prtorude 1.75".

E-Tech Exhaust Manifold.pdf

2001 E-7 427

While back I replaced exhaust manifold. Lately been hearing typical chirp and check. Yep nuts are loose. tighten down and several days or weeks they are loose again.

Ideas why, how to fix, can I use Loc-tite or is heat too high.

Every thing else looks fine. Not a big deal to retighten weekly, but would like to know.

Thanks, Ed

According to Mack exhaust manifold and turbo mounting hardware are one time use items. On your engine the studs are 616GC245M4. I will have to check the number for the nut as I can't remember it at the moment. There are several revisions to the hardware, mostly for the ASET AC engines. There is also a Multi-layer turbo gasket that replaces the standard gasket. On E-tech/ASET engines the fuel lines should also be replaced (again, this is also a one time use item) and tightened following a specific torque procedure to prevent fuel spraying onto the exhaust manifold which can result in "thermal events". I haven't heard of this being a real problem on the E-tech's, mostly on the ASET AC engine. I'll get the number for the nuts for you.

Just throwing this out. How about the switch to the trolly brake valve?

Also check for built up dirt under the pedal that is keeping it slightly depressed. There are two brake light switches. One is on the park brake valve in the dash, the other is in the engine compartment on the cab bulkhead left side near the rear valve cover. Either of these could be shorted or bad.

mack al460 little or no turbo in low range .It pulls ok in high range , but still is not worthy of a 460hp stamp on the engine. it takes about 5 seconds after your foot is to the floor before it starts to build turbo pressure.

There is new software that you can have enabled for this problem. A Mack dealership will need to contact Mack and have step 12B software enabled for your chassis. They will then have to flash and reprogram the modules per Macks instructions.

Toe in on your axle should be .06" +/- .03" (1/16" +/- 1/32"), should be set closer to 0 if lightly loaded. Concerning your axle/spindle/steering levers, you may have a spindle from a Mack 14.6K installed in place of the original 12K spindle. It seems like this is the case as an 18K or 20K spindle uses a larger kingpin. I think the 12K and 14.6K both use the same axle beam with the main difference being that the springs for the 14.6K axle are heavier. I'm not sure if the steering levers for the two axles are the same, if they are not then you should be able to remove the levers from the original spindle and install them to the replacement spindle. Part of your tire wear problem may be associated with the bearing failure that you experienced. A loose or worn bearing will allow the camber on the wheel to change and will result in much the same wear pattern that would be seen with worn kingpins. And by the way, that is quite a fine looking truck especially considering that it appears to have been a standard fleet type of spec when built.

So we always put on the invoice and had the driver or owner to sign if he wanted a bad spindle under him.

Good idea.

I think the mechanic that made the repairs to your truck was prudent in his judgement by replacing the spindle. These things are heat treated and with the spindle turning blue, the heat treat is destroyed. It could either be very hard, or very soft, (typically soft) and subject to bending, or snapping off much easier than design criteria demands.

From a repair standpoint if it would have been in my shop I'd have refused the job had the owner not been willing to install another spindle. I would not have however installed differing sized brakes of any fashion, even as a temporary repair. The liability exposure just does not warrant it. While you yourself may not have been willing to sue in an accident, the lawyers do not, and will not see it that way.

Glad to hear you made it home without further adieu.

Rob

Mack had a saftey campaign a few years back in which the steer axle wheel bearings that were installed at the factory had the incorrect taper which resulted in the bearings not being seated against the back of the spindle (the same thing can happen when installing a HM516449C inner rear wheel bearing on a stamped steel rear axle housing instead of an HM516449A). The bearing had to be heated, in some cases, for it to be removed. Their instruction was to "hot spot" the bearing race after cutting the cage off, followed by tapping the race in order to remove it. Later model spindles feature a heat shrink wear ring for the wheel seal to ride on. It must be heated both to remove and install it. That being said, if the mechanic that heated the parts, assuming he was well versed in what he was doing, thought it was unusable it is probably best to follow his judgement. After viewing your photos the threads on the spindle appear to be damaged (note the flat spots and chipped crests on the threads). In regards to the replacement spindle you should check that the steering lever for the draglink is the same as the one from the original spindle. Slight variations in angle, length, etc. can cause a wide range of problems in the steering system. A draglink that is too long or too short can cause the steering gear to be off center, resulting in a pull to one side as the gear attempts to return to it's high point, tire wear, and erratic steering. If you notice that after installing the new spindle that the steering wheel is now cocked one direction or the other that is an indictation that something is amiss. Brakes and steering are the two things that you must maintain before all others, they are not something to short cut.

Happpy Birthday, but please, PLEASE, whatever you do, don't post any of those picture of yourself running the backhoe in your birthday suit. I don't think any of us would recover after seeing you sweaty, naked, and fly-bitten

I am unsure on what kind it is, but thank you very much that will give me a place to start. I am wondering if maybe I got dirt in there to screw up the sensor, i was dumping gravel in a muddy area and had the duals in the slop pretty good. How do i figure out what type of abs system I have?

If I remember correctly the ABS module has a label that will say what version it is. For your year model Meritor/Wabco version D was popular (it may have been the standard configuration for ABS). Dirt, rocks, leaking wheel seals and the like can bump the sensor and cause it to lose contact with the tone ring on the hub. Another area to check would be the wiring going to the sensor where it is tied to the air hose going to the brake chamber and where it is tied to the S-cam bracket.

I have a mack granite 460 dump truck and with the load on on freeway i am having a hard time getting up to 60 mph and after maintaining the speed, my exhust temp goes up to 8 sometimes 9, and oil temp sometimes to 220, coolant runs arround 190, guys please help me out thank you

Those readings look ok. Do you have an active fault? Is the EML (lightning bolt) on?

Hey guys, I have been checking out this site for a while now, and have got some great info from the mack guys on here. Now I have a question of my own... I have a 99 RD w/ 350 etech and the ABS light is on. When I push my ABS diag button under the dash the light flashes 4 times then a short pause then 4 more times. Called my local Mack dealer they couldnt tell me what that code ment. They figured it was a sensor but I was wondering if someone could tell by the code what it was specifically. I have a list of codes for the electronic malfunction light, but no list for the ABS, where would this be available. I would just like to pinpoint the problem some before Just go guessing at stuff , any info is useful... thank You!... Andy

Assuming you have Meritor Wabco Version D or E ABS a 4-4 blink code is for the driver's side rear axle wheel speed sensor.