Maddog13407

everytime I see that RL Mike I love it even more......

usually with my luck the metal/aluminum will gauld together and corrode and when you try to back the bolt out it will break the bolt circle out of the hubcap....I have put those damn hubcaps on brand new and had them leak out of the window before so I def wouldn't try putting just a window kit in a 45 year old hubcap

didn't the aluminum radiator shell come out around 56 57? or was it 58? when were tubeless tires first available??

is that a chevy LS under there??

probably should offer up the rest of the truck for that price to....

im sure we're all on the same page and regardless, im lookin at a 10 grand running driving truck that NEEDS restoration

You could not give me a motorhome. after workin in a big truck garage long enough and servicing those things half the springtime, they are all junk. we have rebuilt a few that have been in accidents to. total junk full of zip screws and spray foam

been there, and had the panel in and out 10 times, chipped paint on door edge, opened and closed door 100 times to get it right, cracked door glass. been down all those roads. I guess if it was east everyone would do it right? B model doors and gut installation can try your mind

285 Maxidynes with tip turbines were gold, 300+'s were that red color with the tip turbine as far as I know. kinda like a red 'Glyptol'color

try some PB Blaster sprayed on the window channel first Larry. might be messy for a bit but everything needs lube

1956 B model cab. worst rust is door hinge areas. floors are pretty solid. back is almost dent free with the usual rust on bottom. $500 or make me an offer. located in Upstate Ny.

i have seen the same box made by signal stat and KD also. 

yup with no door hinge cover plates and that garbage signal light switch puts it at least 1963 and newer

I remember that black LJ tandem with red bumper at Macungie years ago

still has that shitty Isuzu/Kodiak look of the 2003-2008 Chevy Kodiak trucks that mostly Schwanns used. I dunno we are waitin for the word that ours is in. have the new tow body waiting in the shop for install

depends on which Monoshift and duplex you have??? if you are takin a 67 series out and putting one in youll be fine with mounts. same with a 72 series. I think the floor was cut for a monoshift same as a duplex with the tear drop hole. if you install the triplex there is a lot more work.

would like that L cab B in my collection. just dunno if its 5 grand for 50 grand.....

no doubt that B was probably done back when you could buy a new front clip from Tidewater reasonably as the sheetmetal  looks straight

ialways thought Miss Jesse started out as a B75 and Waylon had a shop make it a B77 or B773, somewhere I have read a story of the Diesel shop he used back in the day for his fleet. he also had an F model and I have seen pictures of a cabover KW

prices would help weed out us poor folks

JC whitney has the solid foam in different sizes. I used it for vent and doors before. the hollow core stuff is totally garbage in a B model

went to the local paint glass and body supply store Larry. I cheaped out and only put the chrome beaded stuff on the top where people could see. put the cheap window channel in the channel in the panel itself. I used black weatherstrip adhesive. I think the window wipes themselves I used generic cut to fit stuff. maybe for an 70's Ford or square body Chevy. I have used R model stuff on a B model before to

that Franchi red R appears to be a mix and match of parts?? old style cab with short back, new style grab handle and roof lights, older style R600 emblem, 1979ish hood with the rear fender crease, 1980's style fuel tanks....