Maddog13407

what ever happened to the factory original B673??

might be easier to just crawl under and get the pins out of the rear clevises. there is only two 3/8 or 7/16 bolts that hold that whole shifting mechanism to the side of the trans. might be easier than screwing the the floorboard and treadle valve

those cast caps can be a pain in the ass to. pull a few hundred of the towin trucks and youll have your share of stubborn ones. have to get all four bolts started just right for them to start straight

tigertool is one of the best inventions known to man right along with a set of slack adjuster pullers but tiger tools are pricey. usually $300-350 depending where you get one

was thinking of just using flange head bolts and Metric(cough) new style clip nuts. i guess its hidden under the floor mat and nobody will know.....

these clips?

Mcmaster doesn't have the clips with the floating nuts, they only have the cage nuts with clips for the treadle valve and throttle pedal mount and they don't have any fine threads just coarse

anyone know of a place besides Mcmaster carr to get the square cage nut clips for an R model floor? the ones that hold the actual floor board in, not the square cage nuts for the treadle valve.

i don't see ANY empty beer cans.........

only air assist clutches i have ever seen on B models were on Monoshifts and unishifts and yes they were complicated looking. seen them on both 67 and 72 series transmissions

that firetruck belongs in the museum or restored. looks like its even sporting a Fa600 B81 style front axle

lookin for this exhaust pipe for a 69 R600. Mack says its NLA. the line sheet number i have written somewhere is 4me33p2 something . cant remember but there are several aftermarket pipes i see online and some even with a 4me4911 Mack number. does anyone know of a direct fit one or the right one? Kcrable to the red phone please ...

only the B series with the bigger heater with separate defroster fan had the switch and most i have seen were back wired right off the heater switch. i don't think there was a separate circuit for the defroster.

the back rubber is the one in the picture above with the flange. the stuff between the fenders and radiator shell and the fenders and headlight panel is beaded vinyl.  the older B's with the bolted together radiator shell and headlight panels  didn't have anything between them just thick hollow core rubber between the fenders and headlight panels

not a smoker but am a fan of a good cigar in my old Mack, in the garage or on the back deck or around the fire with a beer or a good bourbon now and then. usually buy mine from Jr Cigars. usually Romeo and Juliets or the like

17,500 for a B30 holy Christ i just fell over in my chair

my biggest problem with most boots are they are too insulated. the Red wings were insulated little with the 400 gram quilted liner. most boots have thinsulate garbage in them and usually by 9 am my feet are soaked. i use to be able to wear inslated 400 gram redwings all summer long without any issue. 

looks like a ST version with the short wheelbase and what looks like 34 rears

maybe if he does slip her down in the cellar gear and gets to the top, the bridge will teeter and he will just keep driving??

not up on Early R models as i am B models but what year did Mack move the parking lights on the R models from the headlight panels to the side of the hood?

still makes me sick that Red wing has no interest in seelin work boots to the WORKING man but would rather sell a bunch or maybe a fewpair of yuppie dress shoes to yuppie trash.  like i said, id pay goo money for a good made in the USA pair of logger boots, they are nowhere to be found, Red wind cant compete with the Georgia and Carolina Chinese boots, Red Wings does have the Redwing/herman survivor/Irish Setter boot all in on yet that's Chinese but their new revamped USA ones are totally garbage

prob not, not sure if the red kote would be enough to dye diesel or not... i know i have used some kinda white kote stuff to on the inside of a gas tank and  to my surprise, the stuff ws hard as red kote but any contact with water and it flaked right off. got that at a motorcycle shop

nice truck but god do i hate when people drill a hole and put that mirror bracket brace right in the middle of the door.

not that i have noticed. i have done a few gas tanks for B models with it also

coated my B model tanks with red coat, i cut the end caps off, had the tanks blasted in and out, red coated them with a brush and stayed away from where id weld the end caps on, welded caps back on then poured red coat in the tank and rolled the tank to coat the inside where the weld was. been runnin them since 2008 with no problems.