Maddog13407

thats Kevin Alls old truck out of Upstate Ny

exactly. the only hub that will work are  a673 or 237. the other ones are thicker and push the engine too far back. even in a B model that is tight,there is still barely enough room to struggle to get the throttle linkage off the firewall with the engine in. it shouldnt be that tight.

nothin has to be done with the firewall... an E6 is a 237 is a 673 , is a 676 is a 300 , is a 300+, is a 711. all the same block. only thing needed to change from original engine is the front hub on the crank and the water pump has to be a 2 belt pulley one with short shaft. AND IF your using a double disc clutch it screws everything up. have done a bunch of these and there needs to be NO firewall modification

Dunhams Spring shop in Johnstown Ny is old school. they just fixed a few B model front springs for my cousin, headed and rearched and bent the curl tighter and put in new brass

modern (after 1963 ) power for a B42 was a en438 overhead valve which i believe this had. the model then became the B422 in a truck/tractor. the en464 was available in the heavier chassis , B60 and B62. the 'baby quad' wouldnt bolt up to a en464.   i agree, leave this one alone and find a more suitable candidate. 

seems like a common paint scheme out west the red and white?did a company out that way have that paint scheme? seen a few B73, B75 ,B755 and B733;s show up in past few years those same colors

pretty sure i have a pair in Ny. would have to dig them out

headed out in the morning. should be there in the afternoon. hopefully wont have any fan belt issues like the last time we headed to A town...

most all macks originally had 3 5/8s spacers..... everything gets mix matched over the years

actually gets more complex.... 38000 and up Macks had the cone or full floating axle shafts with 6 bolts. full floating meanin it floated in that dome cover... and alot of the times with abuse pushed the cover right out.  34000 rears hadthe 8 bolts or 'Rockwell style'' axles. sometime after you could get 38 or 44's with flat cap single floating axles. most b and early r models with cones were 38 or 44s

413  under Chrysler hood? looks like one of those air cleaners....

why not just pipe the turbo pipe to the air cleaner?? b models have had a237's installed in place of the junk673's for years. someone worried about it suckin the oil out of the oil bath??

Non turbo 711

anyone ever come up with a part number for the hat or 'oil shields'?  about ready to put this back together and Mack cant do anything without a number as Volva took back all the old Microfiche from our local dealer.......... was gonna dig out an old Tidewater book and see what i can find

 what motor and trans and what are you wanting to do with the truck?  im runnin a 711 and single over triplex and a 4.00 rear on 11 24.5 s and it will cruise 75-80 bobtail but put a trailer on it and it will remind you what you have....

I like the sound of the 711, mines a 707 version and is stamped end707 and has the fire rings.  Last year on the trip to allentown it blew both belts, I replaced and noticed the balancer wobbly.i replaced the crank hub and balancer. I found the balancer started to come apart and hub was loose on crank. Replaced with a gun that fit snug and a balancer....it still wobbles about a quarter inch. Motor was probably rebuilt in the 80 and with me gearing it up.its fine cruising but a dog on hills when pulling a trailer. Id like to find an Endt673 b or c motor but they are scarce. I have a 237 in stock and have access to a 285 or 300 plus.going to look at this weekend.its getting the gas axe and has a Roadranger so I'm.thinkin 300 plus.  Either way I'm not taking my triplex out.

I don't really care about hp. The 707 a pig when it hits a hill. I changed rear to a 4.00. so it will run but falls on its face.i figure I can get rid of the intercooler and pretty much have a 250 or so.i just don't wanna lose the triplex I'm running

have many parts, have done many B42 and B68 conversions to B61's etc. and have put a 237 in a B68.  was kinda just lookin for opinions on if recalibrating the pump on a 237 was really necessary . plus i have access to either a 285 or 300+ with the intercooler and was jw if simply taking the intercooler off as to not have to deal with the extra plumbing and filter would be detrimental to the engine

lookin to upgrade the motor in my B. has a 707 in it now(711 with firering head gaskets) and NO its not a gasjob. have a 237 in stock but wanna stay with the triplex. also have access to a 300+. was wondering if i could eliminate the air to air on the 300 and just use a 237 intake to get away from all the extra plumbing with the air cleaner. has anyone done this? would i have to just watch the EGT or would i have to have the pump recalibrated ? or am i better off just stickin with the 237 and setting the pump to Thermodyne specs? or just run it??

in all my years i have never seen a 77 series trans with a clutch brake. 67, yes and rare. double clutch it. its not a diesel and they dont shift anywhere near the same

almost think i have a book somewhere with this truck pictured in its prime or at a show

must have been a really heavy spec front axle. looks like a 601 front axle....