MACKS

Anyone that has backed a DM into an asphalt paver will tell you the reason for the off set cab is for visibility,you would just not believe the difference between an off set cab and a regular cab unless you drove one yourself.

nancy boys-over 80 at 5 am every day here. mid 90 and humid every day. been like that since june and won't it change until Oct.

If'n we get a ' cane, it gets worse as the A/C in the house won't work. I be working 12-15 hr days $$$$$$$$$

When the money flows you go.Maybe you'll make enough to fix the AC in the house,I'm betting the AC in the truck is kicking.

qAC

Same here on Long Island, it's shaping up to be the hottest summer in long time,thank god for the AC not only at home but in the truck,stay cool guys.

Thanks for all the feedback guys,I'm not looking for any thing Mack specific, just universal type stuff,I grabbed a dynaflex chrome muffler from e-bay for cheap brand new and now need a few chrome elbows and mounting clamps,went to my truck parts store and there prices are crazy and the Mack dealership is worse,I'll check out some of the places you guys recommended.Thanks

Thanks Rob,I'll check them out.

Thinking of ordering a few chrome exhaust elbows and mounting clamps from them,any one here have anything to say about them good or bad,or does anyone know of any other on line stores that sell chrome exhaust parts that may be better or cheaper,I checked e-bay and couldn't find much there.Thanks for any input.

For some reason the switch is working backwards,the engine brake should only be engaged when the throttle lever is in the idle position,maybe the switch is bad or the wires are hooked up wrong,try switching the wires and see what happens,but in the mean time do not rev the engine with the engine brake engaged,maybe that's why he had it disconnected.

They both look great,for me I always liked blood red on the spokes and gray rims,not a B but on my old DM's I used rustoleum red and for the rims rustoleum gray with a little silver mixed in to lighten the gray a little and give it some sparkle the wedges get silver or chrome and the lug nuts get chrome caps,my cabs were green also and this looked great against the green.Have fun.

LOL,your right about that Rob,I'd take the rattly doors any day.

Your not wasting your time,the door should close nice and tight,take a look at the door gasket first and make sure it's good if not it's easy to replace it and then try to adjust to latch the way you did,gotta get it just right for a tight close,nothing worse than a rattly door.Good Luck

This old Mack was a tractor when I picked it up at an auction,I bought it with the intention of building a dump the thing is it had the right specs as most of the DM's had,there are plenty of tractors out there that can be converted into dumps but like everyone else said make sure you got the right specs for what ever your jobs are gona call for.Good Luck .

I'm wanting to purchase one of these things to use in the shop. Have always used a tire hammer in the past, but after twisting myself up this last time and not able to work on my stuff for going on four months now, I'm going to spend the money to get one of these things. Has anyone used one and are there favorites? As of late I've been hauling tires to the dealer and paying to have them broken down, then remounted after the rims are blasted and repainted. This is only about $18.00 per tire but that is money that could be saved after just a few tires services are performed.

Rob

I do all my own tires also,but have been to many truck tire shops and never saw a hydraulic bead breaker in use or even in the shop,I would think that if they don't use them there must be a reason,18 bucks for a dismount and remount is a sweet price if I were you I would stick with that and save your back for better things.

I have red plastic wire ties on the rods tight to the cans,makes it easy to check just pop the maxi brake and take a look or measure the travel,I keep mine at two inches of rod travel and try to keep all the brakes at the same adjustment so one set doesn't wear out faster than the others,make sure you check them often a ticket for out of brake adjustment is serious and you might need a lawyer when you go to court. Good Luck.

The first thing to do is change the fuel filters,or have you done that already.

Sweet looking trucks ,but I'm betting that's the first load of asphalt that truck ever hauled and most likely the last,there's no way you can keep the undercarriage of a truck that clean doing asphalt work.

If your gonna buy a truck buy a Mack,IF your gonna buy a bike buy a Harley Maybe you can get a Harley with a 58 Mack rear to handle the extra weight What ever you get have fun.

LOL,65 an hour,last time I had my truck at Mack they charged me 125 an hour for labor and the two hour job turned into a six hour job Ryan just get that truck working and you'll make that money back in a heart beat.Once you get to work you'll see your truck is worth every penny you put into it.

Maybe a faulty check valve or a pin hole in the fuel line causing it to loose it's prime.

Should be a three prong flasher most likely to the left of the steering wheel and just under the dash board.

Ryan,I had the ratio changed in my 83 RD a while back and I'm pretty sure all that was changed was the ring and pinion gears,they said it was the cheapest way to go and would give me what I was looking for.

A torque multiplier is the way to for the u-bolts,especially on the 58 and heaver rears,sure wish I had one,in the mean time I use the big air gun and then a long pipe on the breaker bar

LOL,I guess nobody wants to touch this one,anyway I went ahead a pulled of the head today,what a mess milky slop all through the engine,I found one gasket that seals where the push rods go,looks like it blown out also can see signs that coolant was getting into the back cylinder the top of that piston was perfectly clean I guess it got steam cleaned I'm thinking that coolant was also going through the blown out gasket,got a few pictures,any thoughts are more than welcome.

This old H-70 still runs good,it has a small cummins engine 160,the problem is that it leaks coolant into the oil pan even when it's not running,if it sits for a few days it will leak a least a gallon or more,the engine runs fine no miss and no pressure going to the radiator and no oil getting into the radiator, could this still be a blown head gasket or crack in the head,do these engines have liners that could be leaking,I know it's leaking in the back of engine because the back sump on the oil pan is where all the coolant goes,nothing in the front sump.Anybody have any thoughts,I'm thinking/hoping it's just a head gasket. Thanks for any help.

I had a 1970 dm with the 55 rears,its been a few years but never had a problem getting brake parts,your not gonnna be able to swap the shoes out for relined ones you have to buy the pads and bolt them on yourself,drums should be readily available and as far as the axle and rollers I don't know what you mean,my dm had an s cam and no rollers just wear pad that got pined to shoes.

I agree with HK and nothing looks better than spoke wheel's with a nice paint job on them.