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Posts posted by MACKS
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You can check the king pins by jacking up the front end and using a bar under the tire,I drove Macks that had a lot of walk in the rear axles and neaver noticed any kind of wheel hop or shimmy,most likly your problem is in the front end,check your tie rod ends good,get someone to rack the steering wheel hard while you get under the truck and look for any free play,Good Luck
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Can you have a new one made at a drive shaft shop.
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Has anyone purchase a set of 58,000 pound mack camelback springs latley,gotta decide weather to buy new or used?
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I would say not very good,why are you asking is that the way your truck is set up?
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Dont know why Obama has not made a speech talking total credit for the drop in prices. 3.74 for diesel here all week.But i am sure Obama will take care of us.
Obama has been very busy,giving billions of dollars away to other countrys!!!!
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Very nice, all the right specs. Heard yesterday the guys from Hatti were around buying heavy component trucks and parts.
FW
They love the heavy spec Macks over there and they sure can use them butthis one stayed local,went to a friend of mine just one town over.
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I wanted to post this truck on here in case any of you guys were looking for a good working truck but it sold in one day,it served me well for 11 years but the time has come to let her go,just not enough work and the last thing I would do is let it sit aroud and rust.1983 300+,58,20,12 speed,this picture was taken today.
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Heading back up to those crazy prices again,4.50 a gallon on Long Island, NY,on the news last night they were saying 6 bucks a gallon for reg gas by this summer,so what will deisel be 7 bucks a gallon.
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My E-7 350 has always had low oil pressure at idle,about 12 lbs,everyone I know says the same thing about the e-7,mack says that is whithin spec and no problem that's the way they are.
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If you think it's an air leak pressurise the fuel tank and then look for fuel leaks,you can use a short piece of bike tube,tie off one end and clamp the other end over the fuel fill.
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Sean,you better keep your flashers on and get a couple of them yellow blinky lights that mount on the mirror brackets.Good luck and have a safe trip.
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Happy B/day Barry,hay your not getting older your getting better, that's what I keep telling myself,LOL
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I dont trust thoes restriction guages at all. At least change it once ayear minimum. And as some of the other guys said , try to vacume out the housing after you remove the filter if you can, I have seen pics of "sandblasted" turbo impellers from my turbo guy.
Yea I know what ya mean,I hit the reset button every now and than just to make sure its working,I'll take your advice and change it once a year anyway,I only put about 20,ooo miles a year on it,I do understand macks reasoning though,they don't want you to take any chances of dusting the engine by messing with the filter to often and unnecessarily.
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I know a lot of guys that change there air filter every year whether it needs it or not,the filter in my cl is going on three years,I'm going by what mack says and watching the restrition gauge,is this wrong should I just change it anyway.This subject has come up from time to time with some of my friends and they say I'm nuts for not changing it once a year,I tell them to read the label on the filter housing,what do guys think?
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Is the engine in the truck,if so you can buy the puck that fits the liners and use a jack from under the truck and jack them out,I always borrowed a liner puller something like Packer is talking about and they came right out,also you can notch out the puck to fit around the oil coolers so you don't have to take them out.
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i don't know what to think about you guys up north, i never noticed the bolt till i read your post. had to go back and see what i missed.
LOL,did you notice that big adjustable wrench she holding on her shoulder?
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I think what he wants to do is change his pto setup from a side mount to a rear mount so he won't have to put the tran in gear to raise the bed,so to answer your question,it's not an easy changeover because the trany has to be equipped to accept a rear mount pto,the end of one of the idler shafts has to have splines,hope this helps.
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Thats a neat looking truck,height wise it looks kinda short or maybe those two guys are seven foot tall
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Try to find a spot on the top side of the tank so you don't end up with an oily mess when you hook up your air hose.
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A set radials at least on the steer would make a tremendous difference in your ride,in the mean time jack up the front and check the tires for roundness and make sure there on straight use a block of wood while you spin the tire.Check the tie rod ends,drag link and also a weak power steering pump or one low on fluid will cause a front end wobble,good luck
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LOL,was that a tire cap that flew threw the air,or something else,to bad there was no black smoke coming out of the stack
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Pretty sure you can change them over with no problem,My cl has 24.5 spokes and my RD has the big 24" and they both use the exact some brake drum.
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When you say you started out with no one on tdc make sure it's on the compression stroke.
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I would go with 15-40 year round.
R Series Drop Visor
in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
Posted
I agree,the stainless just does't do anything for the tough Mack image of the older trucks..they look prety good on the newer trucks though.