MACKS

This old H-70 still runs good,it has a small cummins engine 160,the problem is that it leaks coolant into the oil pan even when it's not running,if it sits for a few days it will leak a least a gallon or more,the engine runs fine no miss and no pressure going to the radiator and no oil getting into the radiator, could this still be a blown head gasket or crack in the head,do these engines have liners that could be leaking,I know it's leaking in the back of engine because the back sump on the oil pan is where all the coolant goes,nothing in the front sump.Anybody have any thoughts,I'm thinking/hoping it's just a head gasket. Thanks for any help.

I had a 1970 dm with the 55 rears,its been a few years but never had a problem getting brake parts,your not gonnna be able to swap the shoes out for relined ones you have to buy the pads and bolt them on yourself,drums should be readily available and as far as the axle and rollers I don't know what you mean,my dm had an s cam and no rollers just wear pad that got pined to shoes.

I agree with HK and nothing looks better than spoke wheel's with a nice paint job on them.

Oh yeah MACKS, had a question for you, 86 R supposedy had clutch replaced bout 3 thousand miles ago, how much free play should the clutch pedal have? On my 61-B,you come off the floor bout and inch and your rolling,on this R-model, you press clutch pedal down bout an inch or so and its disengaged, driving those two trucks is very different. I start letting clutch out on R model and begin to wonder if Im even in gear, just nearly all way up till it takes hold, starts up real good and smooth though, clutch on B goes through floor and it better be pressed all way to floor or you gonna be rolling , better not even wiggle your foot till your ready,,,LOL,,,thanks,,,Randy

It sounds like you might need a clutch adjustment,I always adjust it to leave two inches of free pedal,it's important to have that free pedal so that the clutch is fully released.Also just before the pedal hits the floor the clutch brake should be engaged.I know there is a right way doing it by measuring in between the clutch brake and the through out bearing but off hand I'm not sure what the measurement is I think 3/4 inch when the clutch is released.

Keep an eye on e-bay I picked up a lot parts for my 85 rd some of them were brand new,also seen quite a few hoods on there as well.Good Luck

Not a fan of light beer,I like Michelob or Heineken in that order,also I make my own from kits and it's pretty darn good.

Aint you expecting some big snow this weekend?

Hate to miss the "big game" cause your out making money.

Looks like the big snows are gona be to the south of us,some places looking to get up to 40".Any one down there with a dump truck or dump trailer will be working for weeks hauling snow.

Also check your ground wires,there might be a ground wire that goes from the engine to the frame if there is make sure you have a good clean connection.

I'd love to help you out but your a little to far,send some of that snow to Long Island,I could sure use the money. This was the storm we had in December,over two feet.

I have a heavy steel bumper on my cl,it was on the truck when I bought it but I know the previous owner had it made by a steel shop,pretty simple for them to do you just need to give them the measurements or maybe your old bumper.

Someone told me windshield washer fluid works well and it's a lot cheaper than straight antifreeze or diesel.

Your talking about an engine that's nineteen years old,I wouldn't let a minor oil leak stop me from buying the truck,if it was or is a bad leak that needs to be fixed than maybe you can get the owner to ether fix it first or deduct the cost of the repair from the selling price.Good Luck

Nice,I wounder what the dimensions of the dump body are,it looks kinda wide.

Are you sure the cover is leaking,can you see exactly were it's coming from,most times a leak develops where the carrier bolts to the housing,there are two bolts inside that loosen and cause it to leak,if that's the case you need to remove the side cover to get to them. Good Luck

Live and Learn,we've all made our share of mistakes when working on trucks or heavy equipment,the main thing is no one got hurt,it's definitely worth taking the extra time to do it safely especially when messing with truck tires,tube tires are the worst, old tube type tires and old rims are disaster waiting to happen,you need to take every precaution you can including deflating the tires before loosening the first lug.

I've replaced the pads a few times,it's a little tough on the back but if you have the jacks a big air gun and a torch you shouldn't have to much trouble,you might have to heat the bolts to get them free but sometimes they come right off,depends on how long since it's been apart.Good Luck

In my opinion the real problem is the width of the newer cabs,on my cl dump I'm running a straight pipe because if I use a muffler it's gonna stick out to far for my liking,I don't want to have to try to see around the muffler when ever I look in the mirror and I know I wouldn't, like the way it would look sticking out way past the cab and the dump body.Anyway I'm looking to try one of those dynaflex mufflers it should give me the sound reduction im looking for and wont stick out much more than a straight pipe.Also I wouldn't, mount the body 3 or 4 inches behind the cab I think that's to close for comfort,I was always told about 6-8 inches is the rule of thumb.One thing I miss with the older cabs,there really is no reason to have a cab that's 7 foot wide for a dump truck. Good Luck with what ever you buy.

Somebody told me today if you fill your primary filter with ATF fluid and screw it on (doing an oil change) that this would clean your injectors better than anything you can use???? Is this correct? i dont want to do this to our motors and screw them up. We have asets and two mp8's. Would you reccomend this?

No,There are plenty of fuel additives you can use to help keep your injectors clean,The best thing to do is just buy your fuel from a good source and change your filters at the recommended hours.Also you would have some fun trying to start your engine with atf in your fuel filter.

I have inspected for the first time my transmission oil in the duplex. When I put my finger inside to see if the oil was near the filler plug....it was, but a strange thing I noticed was.....the oil was foamy with air and bubbles and the smell was of an old and whipped state of being. When I would start the truck it would start leaking oil where the flywheel or front shaft is located when the truck got warmed up or when I would drive it up and down the driveway. My question is can I use an oil with the oil that is now inside that will clean the old oil out of the transmission without damaging results to the gears? And what oil would ya recommend?

THX

mike

I would say run the truck long enough to warm up the oil in the trans and then drain it and let it drip out for a day and then re fill with 80/90.As far as the leak sounds like the seal on the input shaft is bad,the only way to fix that would be to pull the trans out or maybe try some of that seal stop leak,believe it or not that stuff works.

I would go with a cheaper set and when the ratchet breaks and it will, just get yourself a good ratchet like one from sears,even when you put that eight foot pipe on it and break it they will replace it for free.

Why not just leave it positive ground,I had two DM's with positive ground and never had any problem with it,just have to be careful when hooking up a radio.Or if you want to pull a trailer,that might be a problem.

Just below the box at the upper right that says "Search" is the statement "View New Content". It is the same as the old "view new posts".

Rob

Rob, Thanks for that info,that's what I was looking for.

Barry, Is there anyway you can add it back to the forums,it made it much easier to check in and see whats been going on.

I just saw an air ram scoop on e-bay,it's used but looks good I think its six inch,it's up to fifty with a few days left.Take a look in comm. truck parts.

I did some reading on the fed dot web site and I am still a little confused about the whole thing ,the way they word it makes it sound like this only applies to Interstate drivers but then they go on to say all cdl holders will be subject to the medical qualifications.In New York my cdl is renewed for eight years and my med cert is good for two years,the way I understand it is if I don't update my med cert they will down grade my cdl to a regular license.But then again ""I am not sure if this applies to Intrastate drivers or just Interstate drivers.I guess I'll find out in two years.