terry

10 hours ago, JMLhauling said:

The front drop axle was not aligned wobble is gone now. thanks for all the ideas 

nice to hear back when a problem was solved!     terry

10 hours ago, Mackpro said:

The common rail engines camshaft is just a hollow tube with lobes heated  up and dropped on the tube . And they did away with the vibration damper on the back of the camshaft. Make it a lot lighter to change. All of our common rail trucks have been great , all of ours have had the EPRV delete , fuel rail pressure sensor/harness upgrade done and that helped a lot. We also switched to the M-drive trans and that cut our maintenance issues by 30%. No more clutch adjustments, synchro replacements , PTO to trans leaks stopped. 

what a way to make a camshaft!!   terry

if you look close on the engine data tag, it says engine exhaust emission control information , don't think they worried about emissions back then, probably a replaced engine ?    terry   

6 hours ago, jackdk said:

Does anyone have these two 90 degree fittings laying around they want to sell. I'm installing a new fuel tank on my Superliner, and these are not on the new tank. My tank, the original owner moved the fuel feed to the bottom front of the tank, and I run out of fuel climbing a hill when level is less than 1/2 full.

Or, if someone knows the part number, or the exact size and dimensions, one flare, or both ends flared. They are both different sizes for feed and return.

Thanks,

(not my photo-just to show the fittings needed)

Might have been moved for a reason, stand pipe was sucking air?    terry

9 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I beleive the runout procedure came from early engines, like an E-6.. I believe they had eccentric pins that can be rotated to align the flywheel housing.  But to the best of my knowledge, the E-7 didnt really need to be checked.  yes lots of movement in the tranny input shaft, .020" runout, is probably nothing to worry about. especially because my E-7 book said so. It doesnt hurt to check it, but I dont know how you would adjust it.  But if excessive runout was found, then I would try to find out WHY so I dont build the issue back into it again..  just my thoughts, combined with the book knowledge,   I always welcome more opinion's..  I learn from them..  jojo  

I believe the earlier Mack’s, after the flywheel housing was dialed in, you reamed the holes for a oversized dowel then tapped them in.  Terry

44 minutes ago, BOBWhite said:

Yeah for me if it doest have blow-by and it has good oil pressure leave it alone. In my unprofessional opinion bearings don't need to be replaced unless it's knocking. Ive seen bearings come out of million mile motors look new so as long as you use good oil and filters I say keep running em 

the only thought of waiting till you hear a knock, have you already scored the crank!    terry

Long as you have the pan off, oil pump too.  Terry

Check with manders truck salvage, lakeville minn. they parts a lot of Mack’s out.  Terry

2 hours ago, Mark T said:

Maybe you could upgrade to a newer turbo with a regular V band ?

That means changing whole exhaust manifold and exhaust layout.   terry

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

pull the trolly brake handle down and try again..  older trucks used to have a 'lockout' for sliding the fifth wheel.  I guess they want ed you to be sure the trailer brakes are set before you slide..  jojo

I have seen these where the parking brake has to be set, release the fifth wheel, the release the parking brake.   terry

happy birthday, you have really helped people on here!    terry

Looks like to me between 6/2017 and 2/2018 picked up 370,000 miles? right?   terry

1 hour ago, mackey58 said:

They had the s cams out cause they needed bushings but when your pushed get stuff together. I dont mind manual, but sometimes that collar dont pop up .no matter how much you keep them greased.

Helps before pushing the collar down, give it a dose of penetrating oil.  Terry 

Check with Vanderhags in council bluffs, they had one there awhile back.

Hope the truck does a good trouble free job with all the work you’ve been through so far.😁

7 hours ago, james j neiweem said:

I don't think they had tri-axles in 1955.🙂

Probably a lift axle, and not a tri-drive.

Got a lead on a brand new dm or u model cab shell, with the doors, shell only, absolutley no interiors pieces. if interested you can Pm me a message with a text number to send some pics.    terry located in Omaha

3 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

Pretty sure I figured out where the problem lies. Not 100% sure HOW it happened or what needs to be done to fix it but at least I see where I have to work. I checked the front mount and compared it to a stock motor that is still in another chassis and found that the one that I installed (the E6) there is a gap of about 1"-2" from the mount to the front cover whereas the old stock one the mount is right up TO the front cover suggesting that the engine needs to go further back on the front mount. This will also require the balancer to go further on the crank or to will run into the rad support when the engine is moved ahead. I will have to pull the rad and lift the front of the motor, remove the balancer and push the mount further onto the cover then pull the engine ahead to bolt up the mount. Of course this means making new trans mounts again but that is pretty much par for the course. 

I believe that is why you need the water pump housing, water pump and crank hub off the 673 engine, they are all shorter, you said you made the rear mounts, might have them to far one way , moving the engine back into the firewall?    terry

23 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

I used the original B61 front motor mount so the front of the engine pretty much HAS to be in the right/stock/original location. Also, I had to mount the rad as far forward as the mounts allow ( I think I may have shimmed it with a couple washers also) to get enough room between the harmonic balancer and the rad support to get a belt on. The original mounting on the model B was so close it was impossible to get the belts off between the balancer and the rad support. I had to move the rad about 3/16" forward to accommodate belt removal/install. I am hoping that the rad location adjustment won't create more issues than fitting the sheet metal. There was mention of water pump issues but I don't recall doing anything in that regard.

Mad dog pretty much summed it up, different crank hub and pulley, and water pump housing and shorter water pump.

Somthing being missed here, there have been a bunch of these swaps and nobody ever had to mess with firewall, i know the older engine waterpump  had to be used because of it being shorter. and as 63Bmack stated pump housing.    terry

12 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I regret not staying in the Army..  but as we know, hindsight is 20/20... jojo

Me too Joey, could have retired at 38,  I was a E-5 with only  two and a half years in, my last year in Viet Nam, so I was eager to get out! Terry

52 minutes ago, Vladislav said:

Impressive thingy!

Does that engine have decompression setup or anything else those "second injection lines" were used for?

Fuel return?

2 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

And an odd one...

small quad behind a gas engine, drove one for a couple of years.   terry