terry

Could be ordered either way.  Terry

10 hours ago, h67st said:

Can you tell because there's no tip turbine?

Yeah that is a dead giveaway!    terry 

Price?    terry  also that is no 285, it is a 237 .

6 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Kinda off the wall here, but...

An engine with badly worn rings can sometimes be harder to start hot than cold, because of the heating/expansion of the cylinders causing more pressure leakage in the cylinders.  This is particularly noticeable if one or more of the rings is broken.  Have seen this before, but USUALLY is more likely in a gas burner than a diesel.  But, a compression check should rule that out pretty quickly.  Do one cold and another one hot, and see if there is a difference.

Dying when hot and not starting back...still sounds like fuel supply to me.  A silly question; if you warm it up and it dies, and won't start back, can you put the air pressure on the tank right away, and see if it starts back?  If air pressure forces enough fuel into the system to start it, that might indicate something.

I tend to agree with whoever said it before; it's probably something so simple that it's getting overlooked.  Or a pump.

That is a whole lot of injector pulling to test all six cold then hot.   terry 

just the reason i have always done my own oil changes!    terry

45 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I dont understand how it can be running and warmed up,  shut down and not start right back up without ether.. to me if is warmed up, then the compression should be at it's best.  so yes, fuel supply may be the issue here.  Do you have a small tank you can mount above the level of the injection pump, that you can connect to the inlet of the primary filter, and run a return line back to it so you can run it for a while til it warms up, and try to restart it in an attempt to duplicate the problem..  I know I may sound like a nut,  but sometimes I do these things just to see.... especially if I dont have new parts on hand.  ok,  I will set back and watch now..  jojo

I'll bet it is something so simple, just being overlooked!   terry maybe this has been mentioned, something in the tank plugging pickup at different times?

10 hours ago, Truckie Harbison said:

Ok, so the problem isn’t fixed. It starts fine in the morning. Yesterday I started it and took it for a short drive into town. Came to a stop sign and it died. Wouldn’t restart without ether. Drove it back home fine. 

right now I have the tank rigged so I can pressurize it. I’ve had pressure on it for a couple hours and I don’t see any leaks yet. I’m wondering if either the hose from the tank to the first filter or the hose from the filter to the lift pump is coming apart inside and the vacuum is collapsing the inside of the hose. Either that or I got a lot worse problems. 

Any thoughts?

If them hoses are real old they definitly can come apart on the inside.   terry 

Is the threaded part the filter screws to, crooked in relation to the filter sealing surface?   terry

You can cut a shim out of a beer or pop can to tighten up that u joint cap, if the rest of the u joint is ok.   Terry

1 hour ago, Burmy said:

I could settle for a 12 speed would love to put a 18 speed in it someday (if it can handle the motor or the 285hp motor down the road)

I have seen plenty of 18 speed fullers behind 460 mack engines, should be a piece of cake behind a 285.    terry

Maybe manders will give you a good deal on a 676 engine, they are 285 horse, have to have a different air filter and different intake and maybe exhaust piping.  Terry

Have you contacted Manders to see what they can do for you? I would speak to the owners. I have bought from them before and had real good luck.  terry

2 hours ago, Mack Hammer said:

Everything went well. Snap ring was missing on forward side of shaft, and end plug was out and stuck to the front wall of rear box. A shout out to everyone who gave me advise. Much appreciated. 

Nice to hear when help here helped!   terry

For awhile on the  mack camel back they had three lengths on the springs, i'm thinking 50.55, and 60inches.    terry 

Looks to be some sort of hendrickson suspension and rears.    terry

10 hours ago, Quickfarms said:

Worked on cleaning out the cab today 

I removed the drivers seat and the rest of the carpet.

I removed the blower motor from the heater but was unable to remove the front cover because the temperature control lever is stuck, do the knobs come off of the levers?

 

 

the knobs slide off the lever, just stuck on.    terry

Sure no expert on this trans, sounds like a o ring blown on reverse shift rail, i'm sure somebody more knowledgable on these will comment.    terry

3 hours ago, mattb73lt said:

B42 had a EN 401/402 @ 150 HP. Minor differences and I believe an extra head stud. The B421 I thought was an overhead valve EN438. There’s also the B422. There’s a factory chart around the lines up the difference models and engines, just can’t put my hands on it.

I had paper work on that B421 from new and it had the flathead.    terry

5 minutes ago, 67RModel said:

Was a B421 diesel? I was always told with B model nomenclature that model numbers ending with an odd number were diesel, and model numbers ending with an even number were gas.....it holds true for everything I've seen but I havent seen much and I don't know a whole lot about B's

B421 was a flathead gasser, very gutless!   Terry

I've often wonered this , i had a B421 dump truck for a couple of years, long time ago, my first dump truck, lots of shifting with that baby quad!   terry

generally to get it cleaned right between radiator and C.A.C. to pull cooler out and clean it and radiator real good.   terry

Don't look in too bad of shape in the pic!    terry

Have the top limit of RPM's set to 2000.      terry