Deere Mack
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Posts posted by Deere Mack
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Thanks gearhead, I put a guage on the secondary tank and I have correct pressure there. My dash gauge has been lying to me, unless theres something in between that tank and the gauge to go wrong. Also, the cab air bag is getting worse by the minute, the more I rub my hand across it the more it leaks, it dun rotted.
Do I need to pull the the whole mount to change out the air bag for the cab?
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Hello! Started having problems with my air system. Yesterday the secondary wouldn't build past 90 varying a little, today it seems to be stuck around 60, wont leak down past or build. Drainded the tanks, very little came out. Checked for leaks, found that my cab air ride bag is leaking a little.
Wondering if the valve circled in the pic below is giving me trouble?
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No Affiliation , just run across it on CL.
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Going to have to wait until I can get extra filters. I let a local mechanic I've used before service the truck and he installed the filters. They are on so tight that I'll probably damage them trying to remove. This makes me think even more that the seals could be pinched or rolled.
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Thanks for the tips! I'm very suspicious of the fuel filter now that you mention it. Seems it all started shortly after I replaced them, but I also filled the tanks completely up probably for the first time in a while. Was thinking some rust might have give me some trouble, but it runs to good when it starts. Its definately loosing prime as it sits. Never had that to happen on a fuel filter. I did look for fuel leaks and didn't notice any. I'll look into it and let you know.
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Sounds like a check valve in the fuel supply line....letting the fuel drain back to the tank.
Is that on the pump side or return?
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Hello friends! I hope everyone is doing well, it's been a while. Started haveing some trouble with the 1979 RD685S dump truck that has a 1973 237 engine. Once it sits a while, it'll start right up run fine for a few sec and go dead. After that it's very hard to start to the point of draining batteries. But once it starts back up it'll run all day and restart with no problem until it sits for a day or so. It does have new filters. Any tips would be appreciated!
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I didn't think the 237 came with a tri-plex
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No connection with seller. Just wanted to share with my friends on BMT. Looks very interesting.
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That's about the most helpful thing anybody ever did!
Thanks for the pic.
Well, I'm not sure I'd go that far, but thanks for your comment and thank you for starting this topic!
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Actually if you can get the lock cylinder out you could get them keyed a like. Just did that a month or so ago for my R, the lock cylinders were mismatched and I had two keys
Robert, you can order complete new set just about as cheap. It includes 2 door lock tumblers and 1 ignition tumbler along with 2 matching keys. I ordered mine from Watts online store http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_76&product_id=148 along with two new Door lock retainer clips. The problem is the old style latch system will fit in the new style door and work except the lock tumbler for the door lock will not line up or work with the latch. T
This only becomes a problem when a newer door has been installed on an older truck and the old latch was reused. Everything else lines up great and works just fine!
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Just to show how I got confused and still are. Here's the wiring diagram for my truck and I have highlighted the confusion.
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Just in case the link ever gets removed here's the installation document.
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Maybe this will help. There is a spot to click for installation information above the pictures of the gauges. Hewitts don't need power.
I was all over that website and didn't see that link untill now. Thanks, who would have thought, no power. I wonder if they require a special thermocouple?
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Hello everyone! I'm rained out here in Bama today and trying to fix a couple odd things on the '79 RD dump. The truck still has the original pyrometer installed but it's not wired up properly. As you can see in the picture, it's got two electrical studs, a small one and a larger one. The light socket and power for it are seperate. Where do the yellow and red pyro wires go and how do you bring power into it?
The previous owner had replaced the pyro wire and just wired it in straight to the probe and didn't bring any power to it...???
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Here's the difference, the first pic is of my 1979 "old door" and the second is of the "newer" R model door. The only difference is they moved the key cylinder lock hole down about 3/4 of an inch to accomidate the new latch system. Just enough where the old latch will not line up with the key cylinder in the new door. I guess the easiest fix would be to move the clylinder back up when I get around to body work and paint.
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I'm liking that red on red! Looks great! Keep up the good work!
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I'm in luck! Part #1 & 2 are available and should be here Tues. Yea......
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Here's my problem, #1 is spinning inside #2. It's hard to tell which piece is worn out, if not both.
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I've had many of the 90deg. speedo adapters spread where the tang drive dowel inserts into the adapter. the split end opens up and the tanged dowel spins inside the (female) split of the adapter. I went through a couple of them on 1 truck in a few weeks. It was way worse up here when the temperatures dropped to below freezing. I always went through more of those adapter drives in the winter. Even with that small ring around the split in the adapter drive they have a tendency to spread enough open to allow the tanged dowel to spin within. I got warranty on all of those adapters.
Good morning! I haven't got back around to investigating this, but I did remove the 90 deg. adapter you mentioned and powered the speedo form the rear of it, just to make sure it wasn't in the adapter. Mine seems to be where the adpater slides into the trans. gear. I'm thinking something might be striped there. Ever have any problems there?
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ahem,,only 2 needed. Now, you can get by with no batterys ifn you just hook one of them old crank handles out the front connected to the crankshaft, but you best be a muscled up feller to start it. randyp
I hear ya! I tried using the boat rope method and wrapping a rope around the balancer, but I couldn't get a big enough knot to hold my pull handle on.. So I've decided to go ahead and buy two batterys....
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From what I understand the door shell is the same dimensions and fit either cab, it is they relocated the lock hole to match the new style lock and latch setup. I was looking at aftermarket doors a while back and ran across this info.
That's pretty much what I gathered too. My door works fine, seals up good etc, I just cant lock it. I'll have too see why it's not locking from the inside. You would think you could swap out the latch on the door and cab to make it work, but the guy I talked to said he didn't think the bolt holes would line up. Got to love these little suprises, it wreaks havoc on my OCD....lol I think this old girl will break that spell though....
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Well, my dozer & excavator have two but my CH has three. The wiring diagram for the RD was showing four, even for 12v, but I just couldn't accept it. Two it is! Thanks for everyones input!
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Talked with my local Mack today, guy in the body shop, he said what has happened with mine is the door shell has been replaced and there was no way of making the lock work without changing the door shell back to old style. So yes there are two Mack R doors. Guess I'll pass on this repair for now.
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96 CH613 secondary air problems
in Air Systems and Brakes
Posted
Thanks for the info, but mine not wanting to be that easy. I've undone the supply line and fitting, jacked the cab, but the botttom of the bag doesn't want to release off the bottom support, it will spin in it but not pull up. Second I cant get the bag to unscrew at all. Any tips?