Deere Mack

Looks like raise to me but somebody could have hooked it up different.

Have you confirmed the valve spool on the pump is moving when you move the lever?

Hope to take a look today, it's all air operated. From the back side I'm guessing that spool should be pushed all the way in. In the photo (post #13) it looks like it's pushed out, which I think would be to lower. When the rain slacks up I'll take a look. Thanks

Got it fixed! After beating my head against the wall, we finally figured out that someone before me had put the fork in backwards that engages the PTO and it wasn't going in gear all the way. Teeth finally started rounding off and would let it jump out. Flipped the fork around and I'm back in business! Thanks again for everyone's help!

Just to be clear, what position am I in the photo below? I know the PTO is engaged but I never have used the dump and the writing is gone on the lever. From what I can tell, it's in raise, next notch hold and then lower?

Good Morning! Thanks to everyone for pitching in. It's all air on this one and I'm certain it is engaging. I can hear it engage and run. I'm thinking something is stuck. I'm about to mess with it some more this morning. I'll post updates. Thanks again!

Did you pull your controller to the up or dump position

Hello there, I tried it in both. double checked lines etc. The pump hasn't been used in years, thinking something might just be stuck. Maybe once it sits over night things will loosen up.

Hello everyone, digging up an old bone here. I've just now got back around to this project and it's not working. Made the lines up and made a return for the tank. I drained the tank before we welded the new return and put new back in. I only put about 12 gallon back in, should this be enough to run the detach? or do I need more. I can hear the PTO engaging but I'm not getting anything/no pressure.

I appreciate the help neighbor. I'm definitely ready to upgrade this function. I was having a little trouble trying to figure out what I needed but I'm feeling a slightly more educated now. Thanks to everyone for the help!

This baby needs to go to air. Not much information available from the Chelsea website. Guess I'll talk with the parts guy in the morning. Thanks guys!

Whats the spacer for? I've been looking and trying to figure out which one I would need. Is it possible I could just buy a new air shift actuator maybe a new gear if need be and fix my problem?

Here's a few pics not sure if it'll help identify what I have or not. Thanks!

It's more than likely a Chelsea PTO as they are by far the most popular.

Can you post a pic of it?

That's what I'm thinking, it is/was red in color. Can't get a pic now. If i do have to buy a new one, I'd like to upgrade if possible. I don't like the way the cable can push in or apply pressure on the gear when the truck twist. My cable is mounted to a frame bracket, guess I could make a mount for the trans. Also, mine has the cylinder type engagement, not a lever.

There isn't a tag on the trans, should be stamped in the case, is this the 6speed with 5 in the front box and direct ,low and reverse in the back box?

Hello Terry, the tag I was looking for is on the PTO gear box, I know what trans I have and it is the Mack 6 speed. Not sure about the PTO gear box, ended up carrying it to my mechanic due to a time thing. He knows a guy who recently converted several old cable PTO's to air and we have hopes to round up a good used cable gear box. I'll post updates, I was told that they're two different PTO gear boxes for that transmission and it's either one or the other and they're not interchangeable.

Thanks ALex, but at this point I'm not sure what gear box I have or need. The info plate is missing from mine. I've been told it might be better off cost wise just to replace rather than rebuild. Still diggn' on it.

Hello everyone, hope all is well. It's been a while. I've been working my 79 dump like a mule and she's serving me well. Got a PTO problem. Will not stay in gear, adjusted linkage got me by for a while but now it's over. Preparing to pull the Gear box and wanted to know what to expect. Would the PTO box be a Mack item too, since it's on a mack trans, I'm pretty sure it's all original to the truck. Got the TRXL 107 trans. Thanks in advance!

I wish I could help ya, but my accelerator pedal is on the right side (yours being left/wrong side). Are there any bushes or linkages that are worn?

They have some wear but I beleive my biggest problem is it wasn't installed correctly. Think I'm getting some where with it now, thanks!

Its only 237HP and 906Lb.Ft. torque. What type of weight are you trying to haul and what percent of grades are you trying to climb. The little 237 might be doing all she can.

Rick, since I've gotten the new turbo and pump, I'm satisfied with her performance. I know what I got, I just needed it be performing at her best! The 237 was later installed before I bought it. They did a good job but the throttle linkage wasn't up to par, I've about got it figured out though.

Sorry I didn't see this earlier. It would have saved you some grief.

The dirty, oily linkage is on my 237. keeping everything well oiled is what has kept it good for 30 years of being in salt.

The cleaner linkage is off a 350 4V . It appears to be the same, and a lot easier to get close pics.

I think this will shed some light on your troubles. If you want any other pics, or from a different direction, let me know

Don't let the spring in the 350 pics confuse you. Its not factory. I find I have a lot nicer pedal with 2 long springs (one there,one on the pump), instead of the 2 factory springs .

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Thanks for the photos! That helps shine a light on things. It's hard to figure something out when it wasn't right to begin with.

Happy Fathers day to all the dads!

I've been working on my throtle linkage problems and I've got a question.

When I adjust my linkage out enough to get full throttle I have trouble with a high idle because the linkage is hitting the firewall and not falling back enought for idle position. Is it supposed to do this or can i trim the linkage to where it will miss the fire wall?

Allow me to answer my own question in hopes it helps some poor sap in the future.

You can cut this linkage, but you will shorten the push length and it will have to be gained back at the throttle linkage wich put me back at square one. I'm not liking the way my throttle linkage is set up! If anyone has got a pic of the way there's is set up I'd appreciate it. I'll probably re-fab this one and try to make it better, need some ideas though. Thanks

Happy Fathers day to all the dads!

I've been working on my throtle linkage problems and I've got a question.

When I adjust my linkage out enough to get full throttle I have trouble with a high idle because the linkage is hitting the firewall and not falling back enought for idle position. Is it supposed to do this or can i trim the linkage to where it will miss the fire wall?

Picked up my newly rebuilt pump and a new turbo today. The turbo was completely shot beyond a rebuild and pump was in very bad shape. Turned the pump up a little. Shouldn't feel like the same truck. I'm very suprised at how well it run with those problems. Should have it back together by Sat or Monday.

Discovered some slack in the turbo and removed it. It shaked like a baby rattle when it was off. Took turbo, pump and injectors to local shop. I want it right! It's exciting to know I haven't seen the ole girls full potential.

Thanks for your help Jim!

Turbo may be getting tired. Check the shaft for movement. Other than rotational movement, movement is bad. Any blade damage? Put a boost gauge on it to see what it is pumping up to. Might have a leak in the system and loosing boost.

The 675 is bulldog grunt not greyhound fast.

Thanks Jim, thats just it, I loosing grunt on them hills...lol....I'm about to put a gauge on it to check boost pressure. I have the S3B087 turbo, I've been told boost with a load on a good hill should be around 18-22 psi. Sound correct? I've got a plug in my manifold circled in the pic below, would this be a good place to istall the gauge?

Hello everyone, hope all is well. I've been working the 79 RD685S pretty hard lately and she's a real joy to drive until we find a good hill to climb. I know this is no race truck but I want to upgrade something, anything to help with the hill climbs. My turbo has a little oil blow by, would this make it weak? I really feel like something's off and need to figure it out, got a lot of dirt to haul this summer. Thanks!

This string is helpful in getting me figuring out the M172A1 G.I. Fontaine lowboy In have.....

Wanted to keep the military 12 pin plug wired just like it is in case we tow with a strictly military trailer....

WANT TO KNOW

1. if I replace all the bulbs with 24V LEDS that should still be OK with the military wiring.

2. I bought a combined Cole Hersee 48000 wiring convertor and was going to install at 7-Pin standard semi-tractor bulkhead connector

onto the trailer near the military plug....

3. then would connect the converter to the military wiring system using the Cole Hersee instructions........

BUT I WOULD ADD

4. a box with four diodes (arrows pointing toward the 24V military system) so that the 24 volts would not feed back into the 12V Cole Hersee box and burn something up

IS THIS THE CORECT WAY TO INSTALL THIS??

Good Morning sir and welcome! I have a M101A2 military trailer that was 24 volt. All I did was replace the bulbs with 12v bulbs and made an adapter to use on the military harness, did nothing to the wiring. If your using LEDS, they usually will accept a wide range of voltage. You can search the internet and find the diagram for the military wiring, it's a bunch of wires, but all you need are the four. The extra wires are for the blackout lights etc. for military use.

nevermind, just had to get a little rough with her....air spring=removed