Jump to content

Vladislav

BMT Benefactor
  • Posts

    7,854
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    77

Posts posted by Vladislav

  1. Thank you for the fast help, guys.

    I was thinking about some kind of N.P.T. or something like that but absolutely couldn't be shure having no SAE experience.

    We here use to use the sort of pipe thread wich is for heating/water supply. The sizes called 1', 1-3/4 and so on but the actual measurements are away from real inches. SAE hardware is difficult to get here, especially taps and dies. Although when looking at all that with a hobby wiew that's a kind of an adventure again.

    As for the polishing it was a story I'm still out of my mind about.

    For the first when I took the tank off I found out the inside cross wall was laying on the bottom off it's welding.

    It was a surprize just on a flat place.

    Googled for a tank repair shop, brang it there. They wanted to cut off the end side. I stopped that nice idea and told them to make a cut-out on the back side. Couple of days later it was ready and I got it. By the word I had to transport it in my Mercedes - G.

    Next I said to the guy at my shop to send it with a hand electric machine. He started and said "no luck, it's better to work by hand".

    Next (next day) we resolved to buy sand paper disks and continue with a hand drill machine. And so on.

    To make a long story short he spent about 20 working days to grind off most of the corrosion cavits (on the face areas) and send it up with all numbers of paper.

    In the end I started to work with a paste I used for Alcoa wheels and got some strange result of black stains I could get off only by sanding.

    Probably the tank was made of a different kind of alloy.

    A friend of mine gave me a bit of 3M branded stuff for alu polishing and I finally came up with what you now see.

    The tank doesn't shine perfect still and I hope (a bit) to polish it up more right before the instalation. In the spring, not yet.

    Now all that is about 3 weeks back but I'm still under impression and trying to figure out what to do with the other one :idunno:

  2. I worked out one of the fuel tanks of my R, had to make some repair including welding and followed with sanding and polishing. It was a real nightmare and I'm not satisfied with the result. Although it's not the matter of question.

    So... There's a filling hole with a cap. The cap(s) are aftermarket and I want to to swap tham with some other nice stuff.

    I looked over Mack accessories catalog (online) and found out:

    4.95" O.D. Vented Fuel Tank Cap -
    4.0 Thread with Thermal Relief, 12"
    Chain and MACK® Logo
    16MF312
    and
    4.95" O.D. Vented Fuel Tank Locking Cap -
    4.0 Thread with Thermal Relief, 12" Chain
    and MACK Logo
    9538-2541L
    Local dealer answered me he's ready to supply any of.
    To be shure I looked for the size of my tank's hole and measured out 111mm of the thread OD.
    I know what the most of you think about my 111 millimeters so I recount it and got about 4-3/8.
    Mack tells 4.0 thread.

    This way I'm in conclusion and looking for advice.

    The truck is R688ST of 1988 and it is Canadian.

    post-3971-0-18226200-1386708312_thumb.jp

    post-3971-0-56394100-1386708356_thumb.jp

    • Like 1
  3. Welcome!

    I also like L-models and would like to see your truck in and out.

    Feel free to ask questions about.

    There are specialazed forums for engine, transmission, electric etc, the places to put special questions and to read for general info on the matter.

    There's also Wiki support forum with a lot of facts you might need.

  4. I'm pretty shure the light switch on your truck wich is an L-model is a separately one from the brake pedal/ brake actuator.

    It must be fitted on the left frame rail under the cab and put into the control brake line.

    My truck (NR wich is basicaly an L) has it like on the picture. Has two nuts with wires on the top.

    I saw the same swich or of a nearly the same kind on other L-models I looked for that point.

    By the way I also need the one because the plastic part of my switch has the tread broken and I'm afraid to loose brake air if it might be blasted off by pressure.

    post-3971-0-53468700-1386442364_thumb.jp

    post-3971-0-37037200-1386442478_thumb.jp

  5. I ordered a set of peanuts and inner cam for R-model from Watts a couple of years ago.

    Those parts were installed by previous owner when I just discussed with him on buying the truck and helped him about.

    There's the record in my copybook of the wedge set (peanuts) was $171 and the cam was $163.

    I also remember an outer cam was more expensive because it was of a bigger size and we didn't get it.

    Probably I'll get to that question in the future when start to rebuilt rears.

×
×
  • Create New...