Joseph Cummings

My great great grandparents on my dad's side came over during the Potato Famine. The British Loyalists had soup kitchens where you got free soup for converting to Protestantism. Basically if you took the soup you got your belly full, but were headed to eternity in Hell "Protestant soup" is a term used to describe the practice of offering food to people in exchange for converting to Protestantism during the Irish Potato Famine.

Go into an auto parts store and ask for Packard 440 wire and Rajah terminals. lol. It's like that King of the Hill episode with the tap and die set and wd40

There was never a non turbo 237. I think there were some differences in that housing/valve assembly from engines with oil sprays (Turbo) and non turbo. Your END711 does not have oil sprays in it. If you are looking for something that will just bolt on, you are probably looking for one from a later production END673 I'm not saying that you can't find something that will work. But if you look at the service manual there are different gaskets for where it bolts on the block. And the wrong gasket will fit. What exactly the differences were in that valve/housing I can't remember.

Rears must have like a two something ratio. Every "Custom" Truck I see is poorly engineered and hack work, covered up by paint and chrome. I can think of one that came in for inspection that had the frame flanges notched to put a headache rack on it that was for something else. Looked good from across the lot though. Just don't crawl under them Oh, and like always with "customs" all the lubrication points are bone dry

Not worth anything like that. Too many things done wrong. He states that it will run 92 MPH (Geared Wrong). Frame stretch looks hacked. Air ride is from something with wider frame rails, and I'm not seeing any overlap or fish plates. Drive shafts were all made a little short (Look at the spline engagement). Tip turbine intake is hot underhood air. Too many signs that he didn't know what he was doing, so I'm sure there are other problems

I always stayed within 100ish air miles. So I never worried about fuel efficiency in high gear. Fuel efficiency wasn't ever going to make or break me. I never wanted to sleep in a sleeper and have to compete with OTR guys.

I can't remember if that was an RTO9515, or an RT9515. But I do know the exporters were hot for them back in the day.

Trying to remember what I had in the diamond reo with the cummins. It was the 900 fp rated 15 speed with the deep reduction on the dash. Normally you drove it like a 10 speed

You are thinking of that other one the TRXL1070 or 71, something like that. Mine is dirrect, 11r24.5, turning about 2400 rpm no load (I Think). 2400 is usually where I set high idle

My R model with the trxl107 and 464 rears is a 70ish MPH truck

Oh yeah no problem with that, I just see lots of these conversions where they just put an aftermarket filter on the tip turbo and ignore the ducting

I wouldn't want to drop that cast iron downdraft zenith on my toe lol

The thing is the tip turbo needs cold air, not hot under hood air. If the single disk held up behind your Maxidyne pulling what you are pulling, It'd probably be fine behind that Thermodyne, Unless someone put the fuel to it so it'd pull down low so they could use the TRL107 five speed. Then it may or may not be a problem. I can tell you I've had Maxidynes opened up all the way with the APE or PLM pumps pumping as much as their little 11 millimeter plungers could pump, and never had a problem with the dual disk TRL107 based transmissions breaking. Pyrometer readings a little hot was more of a problem than drivetrain. That and the roller cam followers in the PLM pumps not holding up to all the stress. At least the early PLM

Turn that aux transmission around and you had an easy triple digit truck if you had the power. Just don't let it idle with the main in gear and the aux in neutral. They didn't oil

That engine was never coupled to a 5 speed from Mack. It's not a Maxidyne high torque rise engine. It was always coupled to something 9 or more speeds. If your triplex is a 2 inch input shaft and a dual disk clutch I wouldn't worry about it

We used to have a guy who came around with cylinder kits. Genuine Mack, 50 bucks each cash. But no oversizes. I think at the time they were 125 at the dealer. He'd have like enough for 10 or 20 engines in the back of his pickup. Then there was this operation. I knew all these guys. It started with this guy we called Numb Nuts selling 900-20 tires and batteries out of the back of his pickup in like 1975. There was no way this was not known all the way up to at least the school board. 20 Arrested in $1.5M Bensalem Conspiracy Probe The former Bensalem School District business administrator is arrested in connection with a massive conspiracy investigation involving thefts from the district. A year-long corruption investigation culminated in the arrest of 20 people associated with the theft of more than $1.5 million from the Bensalem School District, police announced Tuesday morning. Bensalem investigators made the arrests after they launched two separate investigations into alleged misdoings involving district staff. One investigation focused on “ghost employees,” the other on theft and illegal distribution of vehicles and related parts, township Public Safety Director Fred Harran said. District Attorney David Heckler and Harran both said the investigation is not finished and more arrests are possible. https://patch.com/pennsylvania/bensalem/20-arrested-in-1-5-million-bensalem-conspiracy-cases

I think my fastest was about 5 hours. No stuck bolts in the mounts. I'm talking R U DM Mack. F model or something much faster. Other makes without mounts on the trans, much faster. I used to keep a spline saver clutch in stock for those midnight clutch replacements. Can use the spline saver if the spline is worn or good. Hell, I used to do an inchassis on a ENDT675 or 676 in a day if I already had a set of heads done. Most times I did have a set of heads done, nozzles with new tips, and connecting rods with new bushings. Did that stuff when things were slow. Keep in mind I'm talking about no crank damage, no fitting oversized liners etc Now at almost 64, yeah good luck. I've got torn tendons in my leg.. I can't even stand up on a frame rail. Two years ago I was climbing down off of a machine and the last step down was like 2 feet. My foot caught the base of a pump and I felt a pop,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I had a 3406E Cat that always had an antifreeze smell for like 6 months. Turned out to be a liner leaking into the pan. Never turned the oil milky, and I don't even remember having to add a lot of coolant so it doesn't seem to take much to make a smell. I had an oil analysis done and it came back as coolant in the oil. I dropped the pan and found it

NP, lots of steps get skipped in the real world. Bell housings only get dial indicated when they are replaced with a new or used one. I can just imagine if I would have shut a truck down over a couple thousands wear on the bell housing. Intermediate plate is used to align the lugs, no special alignment tool. and most times the lugs don't get removed unless you are resurfacing the flywheel. Most times when I was doing a clutch, it was an overnight deal with the truck having to work in the morning

Just be happy we aren't dealing with a Mack CL50 with the clutch brake on the countershaft and the adjustment shims

It might be. I couldn't see it too good in the vid

That's the tool for the old production (Pre 1990ish). That pressure plate has a notched ring, and a little fork held in by a 3/8" 18 thread bolt for a lock

The clutch brake adjustment is done right here

Should be an adjustment on the arm where it goes onto the shaft, it'll have a square headed bolt with a lock nut. There is also a bolt coming in from the side that you have to loosen to do the adjustment. Your clutch petal shouldn't go to the floor. The bearing should hit the clutch brake with the petal something like 1/2 inch from the floor. You do that adjustment first. Then you check your free play at the top. The top free play is adjusted by turning the ring inside the pressure plate. You have a "Spicer 14 inch Angle Spring" Pressure plate. How you adjust the ring depends on if it is early or late production. First pic is early, second is late