Joseph Cummings

Oh, btw. You can hook a transformer with a 10 to 1 windings ratio to that 12ish volt ac output of the alternator, and end up with a 120ish volt AC supply. The frequency will be all over the place with variations in engine speed, but it's fine for incessant lamps and universal ac/dc power tools. We used to do that back in the day with modern alternators by tapping into the 3 phase armature connections before the rectification and sneaking the wires out the back

It seems like if you wanted to do something like that, you would need 2 of those selenium full wave rectifiers and I'm only seeing one. That system is electrically the same as a modern alternator. The only difference is the modern alternator uses diodes that are small enough to fit inside the housing. Those old selenium rectifiers were huge in comparison to a modern rectifier using diodes. Actually if that selenium rectifier burned out, you could replace it with 6 diodes and not change anything else. It would function exactly the same. Lots of times doing repairs to old machinery I replace burned out selenium rectifiers with diodes. Functionally they are the same, just an electrical version of a "check valve"

People are nuts

Yeah they did the buckets in the back on the downhill (north) side. I've got some serious DC welding equipment here. Some big motor-generator units. They weld so smooth, and they are great for arc gouging. Shame I'm getting older and can't do it for long anymore. I can't get comfortable, and being comfortable is a big part of welding. I always thought when I got older I'd be able to hire young guys to do this kind of stuff. All the guys that are any good are aging out, and all the ones that say they want to learn quit as soon as they realize they are going to get greasy and maybe catch some welding sparks

George Racho

If your commutator is just worn you can cut it in a lathe and then undercut the mica

Stiner had an armature for it and bushings/brushes https://antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/search?w=1107456

Did you take the band off the back and look at the brushes and commutator? What is it doing, not spinning at all? Did you try testing it with jumper cables? Pos and neg ground are the same. 12 volts with jumper cables won't hurt it for a test

Yeah that's what he's got. I haven't seen one of them in like 40 years lol

Yeah They let out a nasty stink when they burn out lol BTW your son's honda should have had a Zener diode in the circuit. They leak in reverse flow at a certain voltage Just be glad that none of this was designed by Joe Lucas

Yeah I have 2 of them, but only really run one. It's a DF520 with the port in the side so I can run oil or gas in it too. I've got an almost brand new dual fuel (Gas or Oil) burner gun that I plan to put in it. I talked to the manufacturer and they said no problem setting it up for propane so I could do propane or oil The other one is an older 520 with the round door

I'd have to see it. I'm sure the bridge rectifier is connected wrong. Some LN could be used for both systems like the JB2500, but that dosen't sound like what you have

I'm thinking with the points triggered electronic setups you don't really need a condenser because the current through the points is so low Yeah standard electronic components like for a stereo or something don't hold up well to vibration My 4 cylinder Kohler genset has a magneto on it, it's stone reliable

Yeah, series wound, and shunt wound dc motors will rotate the same way no matter if you have pos or neg ground. If you have electric gauges, the wires will need swapped on the back. The starter is series wound, and your beacon light is shunt wound. Heater blower motors are also shunt

Kind of when I feel like it EFM Coal boiler, sometimes I use some propane. One side is built into the hill. Not just to play with old trucks. The cats go out in the shop to play and I don't want them to get cold so I keep it like 45-50 and only heat it higher when I want to work out there

Both turn signals in the back should be brake lights. Your left signal is connected wrong, or else your switch is bad

They spend it all on rediculas crap like this Water Seer thing It reminds me of my Buddy Toney from Jamacia telling me about some aid agency building a pipeline to supply villages in his area with water. He said maybe once a month some rusty looking water would trickle out of that Bloodclaat pipe. And you know someone made a lot of money constructing it

It's chemical warfare on the US population. Have you seen places like Kensington in Philly

"Governor Trudeau" LMAO. Take that, you Snow Mexicans. Like an American "Lebensraum"

I used the Pertronics conversions for a lot of older industrial engines like forklifts years ago and never had any problems. But now I'm reading a lot of stuff online with guys claiming they are junk. I don't know if they are doing something wrong or what's up. Here is another choice, I've seen it done but never did one myself. I was told the pull up resistor is about 1/2 watt. On my 707 a ran a points controlled MSD 5, it worked well, but I think they are expensive now, and you would need 2 of them