Geoff Weeks

IF you have a ton of play, leaking or not, the turbo needs to be changed, if you don't have a ton of play, it is less likely the culprit, but yes I agree in rare cases it still could be leaking. The back side (shaft side) of the compressor wheel also sees full boost pressure, so can leak from either side.

I'd not condemn anything without more positive diagnosing. Could be a turbo, could be a cracked piston. Pull the inlet to the turbo and see how much radial play and axial play there is. It could be ok and still leak pressure through, but if bad, then you need to replace. Cyl leak down test will show a cracked piston.

I worded my answer very carefully, as sure as S#$% someone is going to measure the hole in the rim and find it is less than 20" and think they need the next larger size! Somewhere I have the exact ID and it is under 20" but that really isn't important to know. What is: anything that took a 20" tubetype can take a 22.5 tubeless if the correct "tubeless adaptor (rim) is used. Anything that took 22" tube type will take a 24.5 tubeless Anything that takes 24" tube types takes 24" tube type only!

22.5 tubeless rim fits a spoke that took a 20" tire

https://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-dr5180pf-delco-cs144-series-hi-output-200a-conversion-alternators even higher output unit, handle 100 amp with ease.

you guys are making your life hard, https://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-dr5178pf-delco-cs144-series-140a-iref-alternators Good for 140 amp, easy to find, just add a cooling fan.

There are plenty of automotive rectifier blocks that could handle 100 amps no sweat, the issue is the cooling. You need to provide some as well as an insulated case to keep them out of harms way.

Then it is just bolt on. Spokes would take a hub and cleat change.

Three heavy wires are output three phase A/C. the two light ones are field connections. You can use either an "A" circuit or "B" circuit regulator by either connecting one to ground and regulating the hot side of the field or connecting one to the DC output and regulating the ground side of the field.

Found a Military TM on them, it looks less and less like it would bolt up.

spoke or disk wheels?

It was used on many older Military trucks. If you un bolt and separate at stator (red vertical line) I believe you could remove the rear case on the Alternator in question, and bolt the rear case containing the diodes (and regulator, but you wouldn't need to use the reg) in place of the original rear case. I just can find a "dead one" at a reasonable price to try it.

No, that is not where I am going with this. The rear section houses the diodes and I believe would bolt on to these early alternators, providing a pre made update to internal diodes, as well as the ducting required to cool them. Both these old alternators and the military units, use the screw in staggered brush holder that are outboard of the rear bearing, like modern Prestolite units are. It looks like the rear housing could replace the rear housing on these old units. For most automotive alternators the stator determines current capacity and the field determines what voltage they're made for. A 12 volt will produce 6 volts with a 6 volt regulator, but with the field being so much weaker the output is low and cut in speed high. Replace the field with a 6 volt one, or re-wind it will produce its name plate current. Most truck alternators use the same stator for 12 or 24, once you go to 32,36, or 48 the stator changes in most units.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134992311495?_skw=military+alternator&itmmeta=01JM56DHY71RX68ZB4SW7340CB&hash=item1f6e2b34c7:g:FRYAAOSwVL1mAWfV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1c67QP3vaHzNB002bkvPLALu08M0vdP2S1AfXEsjc5Lc5P04Cu%2BhKvUzFVv695fWHe00GzEifoLmSugsfRU9IlDt%2Bg%2BOyB8LZ%2FYSCX%2BGOiSHKhO9dMYMmrR5LoToDLiE6HpO2FqfQL5CSaABJXrhpuwxgIAyijnE3wo4%2BcSQy8WGSxgRjTBLKwAM95S1Zr3%2Brx58XpURrErzQPcYBmo7rJi57OogrD7wLi7SIPi68xkoFVIo63LeDb5W6J8feDODUQpjLPlB3UWh1PFDT33ogtpAiN6avrmk576NmqFJPrMeQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6qftqahZQ This is the type I'm talking about, but non working I am only willing to pay 1/10th that to experiment with.

Modern diodes would have no problem with the100 amps the alternator could produce,but are designed to be cooled by the alternators fan drawing air over them. On mine, I'm looking into making an add on rear cover that can support and isolate JB diode sets on the alternator itself while ducting the air drawn in by the alternators cooling fan. There is also a version of this alternator that was made for military, 24 volt that I believe has internal diodes. I suspect that the rear housing could be swapped but haven't found one cheap enough to look further into it. Mine and I assume the 12 volt one, use a bar wound stator, like a starter motor, unlike modern wire wound units.

I'm not seeing anything that looks different than a L/N Alternator of that era.

Really you do, if you want to take advantage of that tires weight capacity. You might get it on and seated, but the rim is only rated for 7K. A 9" rim can carry more, IIRC 9K. Also 9" is the design width rim for that size.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302659882437 https://www.ebay.com/itm/304539655469 https://www.ebay.com/itm/251125786912?_skw=delco+815839&itmmeta=01JM3MSABV5FNM4MK0B561E7FK&hash=item3a78436920:g:DtgAAMXQpwFRaj5G&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ea0AmMd%2Fh1BLKfNDHCs%2BBs124as4XOlwg8ROG7zg5%2FznNTa%2BZIVfOGIOQHD9fbfVJFqX4GqPWL%2Bi6xoh2VIOkw4OuUj25qOGULSV5Wy9fXnCBEf6x4zrnmj2uaaHMHGFdV89E8oCx4H9EFAjLdSnuQLRwuSnor64eyfEPg3c4EsopmWtRtEkD4fhkx3CLq3I90%2BqOVTe0tqCK5OzhCZMUee0dWWnlF82AAMTH6cF5rEku4NOIpk7rz12UvCns44Cg%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4Km5fSgZQ

I've bought my stuff off ebay, I have part numbers for mine, but no way to look up all Delco numbers. That said, I am almost certain that the armature, field windings,and bushes would be the same.

Both field windings come together at the stud, often if over cranked and the windings overheat the solder can melt and you only have 1/2 the windings working.

SAE #1 starter nose.

Looks like the ones on my 269's. everything should be available for that starter. They do require lube on the rear bushing. I can also point you to a modern 12 volt if that is the way you are headed.

Is it a direct drive delco or a gear reduction delco? Parts for the direct drives are easy to find, even N.O.S. but also re-pop. Gear reduction has the motor body offset from the drive section. Most direct drives can be easily rebuilt. Gear reduction can also be rebuilt if the armature and commutator are repairable. I have bought new armatures for my direct drive, but am unable to find any for my gear reduction unit.

If you don't care about "period correct" than a JB series alternator will bolt in place. I have the same unit but in 6 volt. The "extra" wire is the field connection. On my picture, the brushes have been removed, so the terminals are not visible.

https://www.prestolite-eu.com/Category/C0011111CA you could tuck one of these somewhere on the truck and leave the original for "show". Ahh, see "discontinued" but there may be others.