Geoff Weeks

Love to see a pictorial diagram of it as it is something I have not run across. Couldn't have lasted too long as it wasn't common to come across.

I don't know, companies are always buying eachother. CR numbers and National are different, or were a few years ago when I was getting them. National used to be part of Bower bearing years ago, no idea who owns them now. CR classic seals have a metal exterior with boretite on the outside. The also market a rubber outside like National does under a different name "CR gold???" Once you find something that works for you, you stick with it. For me, that was CR Classic.

CR and Fel-Pro were both old Chicago companies that made things from industrial cast-offs from the stockyard. Leather has always been used from water pump cups, to shaft seals, CR is now part of SKF. Felt was another product that had many uses.

BTW the oil fill plug on the rear in my K is lower down the housing from where the axle tube height is. Takes more work to make sure oil gets out to the hubs than modern axle housings. That and the fact that it sits most of the time make packed bearings better than oil, but that is unique to that trucks situation. I still use a unitized seal at the hub, even with greased bearings.

I only installed CR classic on my commercial stuff. You do know the "CR" stands for Chicago Rawhide don't you! Fel-pro is Felt products Corp. Unitized seals were a game-changer for the drive axles. Stemco's were more difficult to install, but they were the 1st "oil seal" for the hub area to come out as far as I know. Unless I am mis-understanding what Mecho was saying, what he described was different then the old greased bearings with the oil seal at the axle flange end and the grease seal at the hub-spindle joint. How I understand what he is saying is the outer bearing ran in oil from the axle tube and the inner bearing was packed in grease. I have never seen that, but don't claim to have seen it all. Your description of seals not lasting two brake jobs is why I never complained too much about inboard drums on spoke hubs. That said, I know a guy in Alaska who always pulled the hub/tires/drum as a unit, and on his own stuff slapped back together without changing the seals. He claimed the old Stemco leather seals could have that done and not leak, I was never brave enough to try it.

At this point it is unlikely that we will know the reason for what Mecho described, as I have said, I have never seen a hub where the outboard bearing ran in oil and the inboard in grease. I have seen several ways they hold the oil back, at differing places on the hub, but never one where one of the two wheel bearing are in oil and the other in grease. I am intrigued! Jojo and I both have trucks that had felt wheel seals, with greased bearings. On the drive axle you can install a modern unitized seal in place of the felt, but on the steer axle you would to machine parts to allow for a rubber lip seal to be used. The felt seal is pinned to the knuckle with felt compressed between two washers that are squeezed by the rear bearing, If you remove the washers and felt you need to make a "dummy" wear surface to fit over the pin and hold the bearing is correct alignment, then a seal could be found to be pressed into the hub and ride on the new surface. The original had the seal stationary and the felt road in the inside of the hub bore. The replacement front seal would have to be very narrow as was the original felt. As long as all the original parts are still on the hub, you can cut new felt and throw it back together.

I agree, when we are talking about grease vs oil in the wheel bearings, but that kinda falls apart when you make a set up that has one run in oil and the other in grease. Both greased and oiled bearings have proved successful. It took making a seal between the hub and spindle that could hold back oil in that environment. Once we had that, most elected for oil, just simpler and there is no doubt when you have a leak. That still leaves the question why you would make the 1/2 step of one in grease and one in oil? Trailers and non driven hubs are going back to grease, (abet different grease than the 60's) and in some applications old grease is still preferred. Driven axles have a problem others don't, you have to hold the oil back somewhere, in the axle tube, at the outer end of the shaft or at the hub/spindle joint. It makes the choice less clear cut. When old wheel seals were felt or leather, there was little choice. Stemco came out with the 1st hub seal at the spindle (was still leather at 1st IIRC), but the wear surface was changed each time the hub was off. Rubber was used at the axle flange end as it was away from the brake heat, to keep the oil out of the bearing area. Some of the old felt/ leather seals can be replaced by modern unitized seals, but not all can, depends on how the hub end is constructed.

I can see it as possible if the seal was installed behind the outer race of the outer bearing and sealed on the spindle, but would make the hub hard to install without damaging the seal. The question is why? If going to all that trouble, than why not have both run in oil? I'm curious because I have never run across it. Greased bearing have some advantages, and some drawbacks, but you have to seal the oil in somewhere, and doing either before or after the bearing both have good reason for that method, have one oil and one grease leave you with the disadvantages of both.

Do you have a pictorial diagram of that? I've worked on plenty of greased wheel bearing/full floating axles, but never seen one with a seal between the inner and outer wheel bearing? I trying to imagine how that would work in practice, and I can't see why it would be done? Either seal at the axle tube and grease the bearings, or let the oil spill and seal at the spindle. I've seen a few different ways used to keep oil off the bearings, but never one oil and one greased.

Every truck junkyard has a ton of mounts. If you stick to the same brand, you can keep your 5th wheel and just replace the mount. Otherwise you can buy the whole thing. They are not "adjustable". The mount determines the height off the frame.

With plastic tanks and aluminum cores today, the old radiator shop in every city is a thing of the past. I had one in Omaha that was excellent, custom cores were no problem, recored my 1942, my Marmon and custom cores for my IHC 9670's. Unfortunately, closed a few years back, no idea where to go now.

Take it off, lay it on the bench and look all over the fitting, either that or take the whole hose to your hose shop, The pictures are not clear enough, nor do they show all sides. On the fitting I photo'd above, the "10" is on only one of the 6 flats of the hex. It has DOT stamp on it and some other numbers, also. If you don't know what you are dealing with, the best solution is to take it to someone that does. I can't do that from this end of the keyboard. a -6 would be 11/16" across the flats if I'm not mistaken. Someone fitted a pipe thread fitting on one end, which means you will have to thread the hose on to the pipe thread 1st when assembling then thread the flare. Makes it a bit awkward, if there is a flare at both ends, it doesn't matter which end you assemble 1st.

SAE 100r-5 hose is sized by dash number. Again, look on the fitted of the hose you want to replace for the dash number size. here is an example of the -10 hose and fitting, note it is marked with 10 on the fitting, even though it is SAE flare.

Hose size is generally marked on the fitting, like -10 for -10 hose or -8 for -8 hose. -8 would be my guess, but no point in guessing look at the fitting and be sure.

One word of caution on fittings. AN and SAE are two different things when it comes to fittings. SAE is 45 deg flare and AN or JIC is 37 deg flare. In most cases the thread is the same, and while not recommended, nor proper you can fit a JIC fitting on a SAE flare. -6 and -20 this is not true, the fitting is a different size for SAE vs JIC. There may be other dash number that this is the case. I bring this up because it is something to watch for when making up hoses. Cummins used SAE fittings on the turbo oil supply hose, and you either had to source the less common SAE fitting for PTFE hose, or change the fittings to JIC. JIC and AN use the same thread form and flare angle, IIRC the only difference is the lead in the flare/thread is longer on one than the other. when in doubt, remove the mating fitting and take it with you when getting replacement hose ends to mate to it.

Anything with a hex on the part that goes over the hose is almost for sure a reuseable, both his look to have a hex. Crimp will be a round barrel with crimping marks. To remove a re useable, thread onto a fitting or plug and tighten hard, then un-screw the center and plug/fitting from the hose as a unit. It has fine right hand threads. This will leave the lower portion on the hose, that "un threads" from the outside of the hose, it is left hand threaded

PTFE hose is used on trucks in some areas where its high heat tolerance is needed. Turbo oil supply and drain line Oil cooler lines air compressor outlet line. The line is more expensive and the fittings are different for SAE100-14 PTFE line. It also is harder to work with.

Original hose is SAE 100R5 and should be common to find. PTFE hose is going to be more expensive for little gain. As has been mentioned, those are "reuseable" fittings and can be removed and transferred to the new hose if compatible with fittings for SAE 100R5.

RR prefer SAE 40 or 50 engine oil.

Spill timing, been there done that.

when it is cold outside and the heater is not preforming well, grab the inlet and outlet pipes, if one is cool and the other hot, the core is plugged and needs to be replaced. They both should be about the same temperature. Also, if used the water control valve can reduce flow, make sure it has good flow in the circuit.

Before buying new tires have the rear suspension checked. There are plenty of "wear points" that can allow the rears to be out of alignment, and new tires would be a waste of money if those problems are addressed 1st.

Bottom plug is for a temp sender, top plug is for fill/level.

Budd is slang for stud pilot, that may be confusing you.

All the code is telling you is the output to the "computer" is outside what is expected. It is up to you to determine the cause. Looking at the actual O2 sensor output might be of help, it would show if it is sensing rich or lean condition. The older the system, the less info it can provide. Depending on how "slightly different" the cam you put in is, it could even effect what the O2 sees and the computer is expecting to see. 1st place I'd look is for vacuum leaks and rich running do to fueling issues, 1st causes lean running 2nd rich.